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Is there a way to bypass the head lights on a mvp ultra mount

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by ctbman, Feb 2, 2016.

  1. ctbman

    ctbman Member
    Messages: 76

    Does anyone know how to delete the lights on my plow.it wont work with them un plugged.
  2. seville009

    seville009 Senior Member
    from CNY
    Messages: 877

    Can you bypass/complete the light circuit by plugging a wire from one side of the plug at the grill to the other side? That's what I do in my tractor and mower to bypass those safety systems.
  3. Randall Ave

    Randall Ave PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,593

    First off, fleet flex, three plugs? And why do you want to do this?
  4. cubicinches

    cubicinches PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,415

    Like seville said... you'd need to jumper the parking light circuit with a single wire, bypassing the 11-pin plug. That will activate the relays in the isolation module. Doesn't matter if it's three plug or multiplex, three port or four port module... the 11-pin is common to all isolation module systems.
  5. Snow Commandor

    Snow Commandor Senior Member
    from 07666
    Messages: 443

    But like Randall said, why would you want to do this in the first place?
  6. cubicinches

    cubicinches PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,415

    I don't get into all of that... i just answer the question he asked. He can put mayonnaise and peanut butter on his spaghetti for all I care.
  7. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,353

    This is where we separate them men from the boys.... are you ready.....

    On both the three plug and the two plug multiplex you can bypass the three port isolation module, headlights and the jumper in the headlight plug by putting a jumper on the black 4 ;in connector that plugs into the headlight harness. On 2 plug systems there are two of these black 4 pin plugs, you must make your jumper at the one closest to the controller, not the one on the end of the controller cable labeled (Batt) On the 3 plug system you will find this four pin plug at the end of the adapter that goes from the 10 pin plug to the headlight harness.

    When you look close at this four pin plug and disconnect it from the headlight harness you will see one large black wire (ground) and three red wires. The larger of the three red wires is hot 12V all the time and I believe is labeled 12V. The two small red wires are labeled SW-DC and ACC. What you need to do is jump the ACC over to the SW-DC. I took the other half of that 4 pin plug from an old headlight harness kit and cut it off, then I crimped those two wires together. The 12V and the ground just need to be terminated with heat shrink so they don't short out. When I suspect an isolation module or the "plow present" loop back circuit is bad I just plug this in to make the plow functions work.

    Note that when this is jumped the handheld controller will be back-lit and active whenever the ignition is on so if you want to be able to deactivate it you need to put a secondary switch somewhere in the cab. You could just run those two wires into the cab and put them on a simple switch rather than jump them permanently. This way you would have to, and have the ability to turn the controller on and off manually.

    If you have a four port isolation module you can either get on of those adapters and use the instructions above or go straight to the 10 pin connector in port 1 of the isolation module. Jump pins C and D (red and red/yel), these are the same wires as above just further back. The red wire C is ACC and the red/yel D is the feed to the controller.

    If you never plan to use an isolation module again just cut the wires a few inches behind the plug and connect them either permanently or through a switch if you want that secondary control

    Note that this procedure will work with all models: V, Wide-out, Straight blade, three plug or multiplex.

    Hope that helps.
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2016