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Okay, I'll tell you right a way this is gonna be long! But i want to explain my whole season to this point so you know what I've done so far, checked, fixed, and cleaned. i think i already have it figured out but i need someone with more knowledge than me to tell me I'm right.

i have a unimount pro 3 spring on a 2000 ford f150 7700, no cable, electric controlled.

i bought this plow setup over the summer and before winter i took the whole plow reservoir, pump, lift ram assembly to a business to be rebuilt, got it back put it on and got ready for some snow.
we had the first snow and i started plowing, everything worked well until the temperature took a dive and she quit working.
I thought water freezing right away but how could that be when i just got it back from a rebuild? So i took the top fill plug out to see if i saw any fluid. When that last thread cleared the top it blew completely out of my hand followed by copious amounts of pure water and atf, so i removed the drain plug and nothing came out! I thought wtf and took a small screwdriver and pushed up into the reservoir and hit something solid, pulled it out and had a look at the tip it was covered in ice! So i thawed everything out drained the mostly water/ pink atf fluid out and refilled with myers plow oil.
plowed for maybe two hours and when i was offered a cup of coffee i shut her down and went in for a cup. When i came out the plow wouldn't do anything, yep frozen up for the second time!
At least i was smart enough to bring everything i needed to change the fluid again on the road. Again pink and milky looking coming out.refilled with myers fluid once more and away i went.
next snow i plowed all day and at the end of the day, as the temperature started its downward spiral it froze up again! So this time i drained everything took the motor off cleaned and dried inside and out, took the pump out cleaned it all up, cleaned the strainer and then drained the ram cyclinders and refilled, put everything back and refilled with myers fluid.
next i took out all of the coil packs and valves cleaned everything with brake clean and compressed air and put back together.
This last snow here in perry co. Pa. Wasn't as bad as they expected, but still plowable so i started, well i tried to start lol. The truck started fine but the plow wouldn't move, wouldn't even lift off the ground! But i did hear what sounded like a solenoid clicking away under the hood.sure enough there was one under there! I checked power going into solenoid with a test light and i had it, had my son press the up, left, right buttonsas i checked the exciter wire and it was calling for the solenoid to close but nothing at the big terminal going to the plow motor.
next i used a jumper To test the plow motor, just to make sure, and just as i figured , it took off like a gut shot cat!
so now i know it has to be the solenoid, right? I took a little trip up to blain and got a new solenoid from a black hat for 28.97 and back home i went happy as a clam.
the next day i put on the new solenoid and hit the up button.... nothing!
so far I've cleaned and i mean cleaned every connection from the controler to the plow! Some were done twice and coated with dielectric grease, and still nothing, so out came the test light again and it was exactly the same as before! Power to the solenoid, exciter wire calling for it to close but nothing out. I'm about beside myself, and I'm getting fairly frustrated, to say the least!
I've thought and thought and the only thing that i can come up with is a faulty new solenoid? I guess it's possible, i don't know?
I will say that I've gotten a fairly crash course on western unimounts. Before this i never even checked the fluid in a snowplow let alone put a wrench to one.but i searched old threads on here and monitored some new threads as well and i think did a pretty good job figuring it out for a rookie.and didnt even have to bother you guys, until now that is.
would you concur, that it is most likley a faulty new solenoid? What else could it be?
if you've made through all of this info I've posted and have any idea on what it might be please put your idea on here, i will check them and let you know if it worked! Otherwise I'm taking this part back tomorrow and trading it in on another new one.
and I'll update on whether that fixed it or not tomorrow night.

thanks to all who are going to be weighing in on this! I appreciate it!
 

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#1, no idea why you keep having it freeze - you don't say what was actually done at the dealer, but I would guess the cylinders are likely rusted/pitted and sucking moisture in. When you thawed it out, did you actually thaw all the cylinders and lines? If not, you may have still had a large amount of water/ice in the system.

#2, no idea who/what a "black hat" is, so without knowing what you bought for a solenoid, i'll guess it was either defective or entirely the wrong one. You can search on here for many, many cases of new off-brand NAPA solenoids or the like failing almost immediately.
 

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Never said If you had power in on the solenoid. How is the input power cable
 

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On my desktop now, from what I get, she keeps freezing up, so he gutted the whole unit, put it back together, now it will not work.
He stated it did work after that, just kept freezing. Up until the solenoid crapped itself - probably because he was whacking away at the controller non stop trying to make it work even though it was frozen. And then frozen again. And then again.

He didn't say what prompted the "rebuild" in the first place.
 

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Pretty sure the unimount motor relay “solenoid” was ground activated. If that is the case and you are getting positive power on the small terminal, either your testing is flawed something is shorted out. Can you Western guys confirm this should be a 3 post ground activated solenoid?
 

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Pretty sure the unimount motor relay "solenoid" was ground activated. If that is the case and you are getting positive power on the small terminal, either your testing is flawed something is shorted out. Can you Western guys confirm this should be a 3 post ground activated solenoid?
I think that was only the case for the cable operated controller. If I read correctly, his is strictly electric
 
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