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How to stop snow from clumping in blower

Discussion in 'Residential Snow Removal' started by snowdreaming, Feb 19, 2010.

  1. snowdreaming

    snowdreaming Member
    from Boston
    Messages: 45

    If you can show me a thread that just talks about this I'll apologize. I did a search. Any advice on how to get a single stage thrower not to clump up wet snow all the time? My yard machines 5.5hp 21" wide blower is useless if the snow isn't powdery. I don't know what will hurt the blades.
  2. EastCoast

    EastCoast Junior Member
    Messages: 17

    A snow clogged chute can really slow you down -- especially when the snow is really wet.

    You can keep your chute clear if you do two simple things:

    1. Use Non-Stick Spray
    It coats your snow blower chute and auger just like cooking spray.

    The snow literally slides right through without sticking or clogging.

    2. Go Faster
    Believe it our not, your chute gets clogged because you're going too slow.
  3. snowdreaming

    snowdreaming Member
    from Boston
    Messages: 45

    I'll try WD40 then and hope it doesn't damage. I doubt it but I have nothing to lose with this POS
  4. leon

    leon Senior Member
    Messages: 872


    WD_40 works well, cooking spray works well and Fluid film works very well and no worries about the paddlles or rubber either.
    I know that sams club has three packs of cooking spray in big aerosol cans or at least they did

    Taking half bites may be the rule of thumb with your wet snow as it is affected by the ground temperature and the air temperature both.

    dont blame your snow thrower-its the warmer snow thats the problem.

  5. elite1msmith

    elite1msmith 2000 Club Member
    from chicago
    Messages: 2,762

    when purchasing a new blower, look for a blower that has a large chute opening.

    toro use to make a 824 and a 724 , the difference being 1 more hp and a larger chute... well i got the 724 to save the bucks...big mistake
  6. LawnGuy110

    LawnGuy110 Senior Member
    Messages: 196

    I use this spray on coating. I dont remember the name of it at the moment, I want to say Sno-Jet but I'm not sure. It builds up over time as you put more coatings on anything metal (blades, snowblowers, shovels, etc.) It has worked like a charm for me.
  7. snowdreaming

    snowdreaming Member
    from Boston
    Messages: 45

    This probably makes sense why blowers that are "expensive" or larger still get sloshed up, is because they have no lubricant I guess to stop the snow from sticking through the chute. I learned something here....
  8. leon

    leon Senior Member
    Messages: 872

    stuck snow

    The rotary snow plows used by Both Union Pacific and Burlington Nothern Santa Fe Railway companies used steam heat at one time to keep all the operating surfaces clear of ice during operation which are :

    1.. The adjustable rotary fan used to throw snow out of the right of way to the immediate left or right of the railroad right of way.

    2. The left and right wing boards used to break and gather additonal snow to increase the width of the right of way for trains and avoid impacts of snow banks by moving trains.
    After the rotaries were converted to electric motors for the rotary fan.

    3. operators cabin and windows

    I have forgotten if the conversion to the electric system is still used to make steam or resistance heating is used to keep the units clear of ice and snow.

    One of the two original rotary plows owned by the was rebuilt completely and uses fuel oil to heat the steam used for the rotary plow. The other unit is in a railroad museum in California I think.

    Last edited: Feb 19, 2010
  9. fireball

    fireball PlowSite.com Veteran
    Messages: 545

    well Leon if snowdreamer gets a railroad rotary plow, I think he would be asking how to turn it around on the sidewalk
  10. ve9aa

    ve9aa Junior Member
    Messages: 8

    Goes without saying (I guess:?) I have no connection to Clarence at all

    I installed this great kit today ! If you have more than I would say aprox 1/8"-1/4" between impeller and chute, then this is $30 WELL spent. My impeller blades (4) were in hard shape from 27 years of chucking rocks. . . One blade was 1/2"-3/4" away from the inside of chute ! Took me a while to straighten it...and not perfectly either, but the kit made up for it.


    Just got done installing the kit on an old & tired 1983 10hp/28" Sears Snowblower. Took me a little longer than I thought,(2½ hrs) but the time included straightening out one impeller blade that was badly bent. No fresh snow to test it on, but I went up and down the sides of the driveway in week-old real heavy, packed, wet slushy snow varying from 1" to 6" in depth. I only got the chute plugged once in 300'-400' of snowblowing (as compared to the other day when I was plugged every 5 feet when I was testing it in the "before Clarence kit" mode...). A BIG difference indeed.

    Well, this old beast will really chuck snow now. Can't wait to get some normal fresh dry snow to try it on to compare throwing distances.
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2010
  11. openbook

    openbook Junior Member
    Messages: 6

    That sounds like it might work, but I'm skeptical. I wouldn't want to risk damaging my impeller by bolting a bunch of rubber flaps in it. What if the snow accumulates on the bolts and builds up from there? What if it's not balanced and vibrates badly and bends the auger gearshaft? I wouldn't want to risk it. Maybe if it was some kind of rubber sleeve that you could simply snap on I would try it, but I don't like the bolt idea.
  12. leon

    leon Senior Member
    Messages: 872

    impeller kit

    The fan drum is big enough to get rid of it all and the bolts are very small in length so it has not time to build up.

    The impeller is balanced simply because the impellers are equal in distance from each other. The rubber flaps are simply an flexible extension of the solid impeller
    making its surface area larger to eliminate the snow that always ends up between the impeller edge and the fan housing.

    The rubber flaps are held in place by the two sheet metal plates to secure it to each impeller maintaining the proper balance of the impeller rotor and the impeller paddles
    and its always in balance.

    The rubber flaps are simply sweeping the drum of all material and in the process the drum is not flooded with snow build up.

    The video that was made showing it is very well done and it is explained very well.

    Clarence also offers a money back guarantee too.
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2010
  13. leon

    leon Senior Member
    Messages: 872

    impeller kit

    I apologise for forgetting this:

    As your impeller spins inside the fan housing its creating friction against all the snow that enters it and some of it does melt and end up in the bottom of the fan housing and continues to melt while the impeller is rotating.

    The impeller kit sweeps the snow out before it has time to be heated up by the impellers rotation and creating the pool of mush in the housing.

    The impeller kit makes the the impeller larger in length and widtth and requires no more energy to power the fan to move the snow as it adds surface area tot he existing paddle making it that much more efficient for you.

    The impeller clogs up from the friction of the impeller contacting the snow and ice and the impact heats the snow and ice to where it becomes so heavy it clogs the fan.

    If an impeller kit was offered for every two stage blower there would be no hand injuries from the impeller being plugged.

    All that is being done with the impeller kit is adding more surface area to the original impeller to catch and throw snow and get rid of it the first time.
  14. RBEnterprises

    RBEnterprises Junior Member
    Messages: 13

    Use Fluid Film. It works better than WD 40 and it lasts longer. JMHO.

    DAFFMOBILEWASH PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,602

    In the fall spend some time and repaint the shute and the impellar. A nice coat of fresh paint will help by making every thing more slippery. I have a 25 year old two stage blower that works as good as a 2009 model. NTM the engine is cast iron and will last another 20years.....

    Take care of your snow equipment and it will last a very long time. Wash and wax FF and grease and above all run the carb dry before summer. During the summer dont be afraid of starting the old snow blower and letting it run for an hour or so......Make sure to engage the drive and blades!!