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how many miles on a set of u joints 3rd gen guys

Discussion in 'Ram Trucks' started by sno commander, May 27, 2009.

  1. sno commander

    sno commander PlowSite.com Addict
    from ct
    Messages: 1,063

    hey all my 07 just went in for a bad u joint in the front only 27,000 miles. dealer covered it under warranty no problem but only will replace the side thats bad, should i do the other side too or maybe i got a s@#t u joint to start with.:confused: should i pan on doing these things every 2 years, just looking to see how many miles you guys are getting on a set:waving:
  2. Dodge Plow Pwr

    Dodge Plow Pwr Senior Member
    Messages: 568

    I have an 05 with 76k and they just replaced both front axle u-joints and a new front drive shaft in since January. I just got it back yesterday after they replaced the rear joints again for the 8th. time in 4 years. I had a vibration that was so bad the actually put in a new rear drive shaft as well because the balance of the old shaft was aweful. Get ready to do the other side soon and be willing to continually be changing them all the freaking time.payup
  3. sno commander

    sno commander PlowSite.com Addict
    from ct
    Messages: 1,063

    thats what i figured, i found a set of torque king u joints that are greasable, im going to buy a set. the problem seems to be is that they run out of lube and their spining dry and you no the rest im sure. quad 4x4.com has a bunch of parts for these u joint eaters:realmad:
  4. Camden

    Camden PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,604

    I replaced the ball joints on my Dodges several times before I wised up and began using Moog joints instead of the OEM ones that Dodge recommended.

    Moog joints have grease zerks and the other ones don't. Just hit them with a little grease every time you change your oil and you should be good to go.
  5. bltp203

    bltp203 Senior Member
    Messages: 484

    Moog is the best, no doubt and the most expensive...........I replaced mine with a set of greasable ones from Napa. If I remember right, they ran about half of the Moog joints and I havent had any problems since.
  6. dmontgomery

    dmontgomery PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,238

    I just had the rears and the drive shaft replaced under warranty, 63,000 miles.......I read an article recently that stated that replacing with greasible u joints was a mistake because they are hollow, hence weaker... I take it that ya'll disagree with that....
  7. Camden

    Camden PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,604

    Yep, I disagree. I figure I've saved myself at least one set of joints just by switching to the ones that can be greased.
  8. dmontgomery

    dmontgomery PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,238

    that is why I like this site.......real world experience........thanks
  9. Banksy

    Banksy PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,113

    119,000 on front bearings and joints. The rear shaft joints were replaced at around 80,000.
  10. NLS1

    NLS1 Senior Member
    Messages: 321

    40k on ujoints and ball joints
    replaced with high end greasable, should be good for a long time now
  11. SpruceLandscape

    SpruceLandscape Senior Member
    Messages: 248

    mine were replaced under warranty within the first 25K. I'll keep taking it back in for warranty replacement till I hit 100K, then I'll switch to the moog
  12. AiRhed

    AiRhed Senior Member
    Messages: 401

    That's sound advice from camden. While you're at it, switch to a Moly grease as well. Moly grease is similar to graphite and is GREAT for ball joints, tie rod ends, track bars, etc. Try a grease like one offered from MYSTIC. Make sure you or whoever does the replacement pumps a healthy dose of grease into all New Joints after or before install. I'm amazed at how many shops think the factory grease is enough.

    Moog joints/track bars usually have lifetime warranty's. If you buy a Moog product it's usually the last one you'll "BUY" not necessarily the last one you'll replace. Every joint on your truck should be greasable, and not replaced with OEM crap. It's ridiculous to expect a Ball joint to last under the pressures and repetitive motion involved with plowing WITHOUT being greased consistently. A good practice would be to grease your joints after every plowable storm.

    The aftermarkets lively hood is based on addressing the problems/weaknesses of factory equipment/parts. I'd say the minute that warranty is up, switch to MOOG or an equivalent everywhere.

    Just my buck O'five
  13. nexcorp

    nexcorp Junior Member
    from midwest
    Messages: 10

    Grease each storm makes sense. Just like nay other piece of heavy duty equipment they recommend grease every day of use.
  14. exmark1

    exmark1 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,321

    Maybe I got lucky then... my 2003 made it to 88,000 on all original u-joints. It cost me $2000.00 for all new ball joints and u-joints at that time though
  15. RacingZR

    RacingZR Senior Member
    from Maine
    Messages: 400

    Just picked up an 03 2500 myself with 106K on it. Never been plowed though, bought the truck in FL. Had my brother's mechanic look it over said it was pretty solid. None the less, knwoing the front end are a weak link on the Dodges, I priced out some parts. Looked to me like someone could rebuild the front end themselves with all Moog parts for about $1000. Not that a grand is chump change but........
  16. sno commander

    sno commander PlowSite.com Addict
    from ct
    Messages: 1,063

    im not sure i would put moogs in my truck, ive been hearing alot of bad things about them seems like there quality control went down and alot of people are having trouble with them causing horrible steering wander. i just ordered a set of xrf ball joints that are greasable for $220 shipped. anybody have good luck with precision u joints that are greaseable?

    DAFFMOBILEWASH PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,602

    It pays to look on the box and see where the part is made. Chin& made parts need to stay one the shelf with these trucks. I have a friend who owns a repair shop and has has sooo many issues with brand name new parts. Usually with rear drums, the metal is made so poorly it can't take the heating cooling cycles and warps. Personally any greasable universal is better than the factory non servicable junk!!!
  18. JohnnyU

    JohnnyU 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,040

    96K miles on all original parts. I just recently replaced my steering linkage (greasable MOOG parts) one week before I found the "new" Mopar steering linkage upgrade. (Click here)

    I'll be replacing ball joint and axle u-joints this spring. I bought Raybestos greaseable balljoints, and am still in search of a set of greasable u-joints. When I built my Chevy, I used all greasable joints. In all my experience in wheeling, my u-joint failures have been caused by contamination and drying out of the joints. I keep everything greased and see nice long component life, despite the adverse conditions they see.
  19. NickColetti

    NickColetti Member
    Messages: 49

    I have an 05 2500 and i just replaced mine at 40k.

    Its actually super common for the factory ones to go around this time.

    The greasable ones are what i replaced the factory ones with, im hoping for the best!!
  20. rjnjr1019

    rjnjr1019 Senior Member
    Messages: 159

    65000 still have all org and org brakes on my 05 quad 4x4