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Quick question to your guys with the Sno Pro 3000. I just got mine a few weeks ago and I've been toying with hooking it up and taking it off. I've found that after I drop the plow to take it off, the lift cylinder doesn't go all the way down, which I'm sure is normal, since there is no additional weight pulling down on it once the plow is touching the ground. But here's the thing, if I don't push the cylinder all the way down after I take it off, it's extremely tough to put back on. If I do push it down, it hooks up in seconds.... Is this what everyone else does in order to have the thing go on with ease??:help:
 

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i have tried it both ways and im just leaving it on
 

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600rrpilot;469623 said:
ive had mine for 3 seasons....and have to admit ive never done that and its always been a ***** to get the pins in. gonna have to try this out! thanks!
Yea! Give it a try! it leaves much more slack for the handles to swing up when driving in. Just make sure that your lock pins are in the "down" position and they'll click right in. You'll need to manually push them in of course but they'll be all lined up and ready to go. GOODLUCK!
 

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I've never tried that either, I'm going to try that next time.
here I bought the Curtis because it's fast on and off and I haven't taken the thing off in a month. (been a snowy December)
Kinda ironic.
 

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ChevKid03;469139 said:
Quick question to your guys with the Sno Pro 3000. I just got mine a few weeks ago and I've been toying with hooking it up and taking it off. I've found that after I drop the plow to take it off, the lift cylinder doesn't go all the way down, which I'm sure is normal, since there is no additional weight pulling down on it once the plow is touching the ground. But here's the thing, if I don't push the cylinder all the way down after I take it off, it's extremely tough to put back on. If I do push it down, it hooks up in seconds.... Is this what everyone else does in order to have the thing go on with ease??:help:
I'm not sure if this has anything to do w/it, but when I take mine off, I always drop it on my wheeled plow dollies in the garage, and I never have any issues. Also, I fluit filmed the hell out of the pins and frame. I stick the nose of my truck into the garage, and just wheel the plow into the mount and they lock right in every time, never have an issue...

In case anyone is wondering, I bought that little 3 dolly set made for snowmobiles from northern tool for 20 bucks, instead of paying $100+ for an actual "plow dolly". I did have to weld some rebar to the one for the jack stand to prevent it from sliding off when you wheel it around...
 

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do you push the plow on the truck or drive it in ?
 

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PLOWMAN45;475177 said:
do you push the plow on the truck or drive it in ?
I stick the nose of my truck into the garage, and just wheel the plow into the mount and they lock right in every time, never have an issue
.......... lol
 

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maybe those dollys arent such a bad idea
 

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PLOWMAN45;475263 said:
maybe those dollys arent such a bad idea
I love 'em... They make it real easy, not only to get the plow back ON the truck, but if I need to move it around the garage, it's really easy for one person to just roll it around. It's especially nice come summer, when I just wheel it into the corner of the garage, and it's stored.
 

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FLASHMAN;489720 said:
I love 'em... They make it real easy, not only to get the plow back ON the truck, but if I need to move it around the garage, it's really easy for one person to just roll it around. It's especially nice come summer, when I just wheel it into the corner of the garage, and it's stored.
I do the same thing. It sits in the corner of the barn all summer, when it's time to go back on wheel it over to the truck.
 

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hook up

check curtis's web site on the installation manual but there are height requirement's to set the plow light frame on the three holes were the plow pivots measure from the ground to the center of the round bar that goes's side to side on the mount 16 3/4 use top hole 15 3/4 to 16 1/2 use center hole 15 1/2 use bottom hole ,check this first .you might have to loosen the chain ,you need to be able to lightly wiggle the chain .
 

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northern tool for the dollys i mean you still use the jack leg
 

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PLOWMAN45;491537 said:
northern tool for the dollys i mean you still use the jack leg
Yeah, I position the 2 that go under the blade, drop the plow into float, then position the flat one under the jackstand leg and lower it...

Just don't forget to weld some rebar to that flat one, otherwise the leg WILL slide right off that powdercoated surface...

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200127374_200127374

They're listed as snowmobile dollies, but the 2 that are grooved are PERFECT for a plow blade, and with very slight mod to the rear one, you're good to go.
 
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