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Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by zamaro, Sep 22, 2001.

  1. zamaro

    zamaro Junior Member
    Messages: 14

    I found this 74 4x4 for sale and need info..

    I thought it said c20 .. but it is a full time 4x4 3/4 ton 8 lug 16.5 in' wheels?

    what have a got here?

    has this truck been tampered with?

    has a turbo 400

    it say chevane/20 not sure how ytou spell it
    on the fenders...

    has a "target" 350 in it....

    what do i need to look at it is FS for 850/bo

    I live in the snow belt in MA and looking for a 4x4 for the winter...

    is this my truck?

    thanks !!!!

    please look at pic....
  2. Alan

    Alan PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,393

    If it's not going to be yours, let me know and it can be MY next project. Plenty of people can't seem to understand that if it is 4x4 it's a K model,, NOT a C with four wheel drive. That's pretty much the truck I'm looking for to rebuild next. TH400 is stout, a Targetmaster was the GM rebuilt engine as I recall. How much rot are you going to have to deal with? No pic with the post that I can see.
  3. plowking35

    plowking35 2000 Club Member
    from SE CT
    Messages: 2,923

    The target engine is the GM NEW engine line in the goodwrench engine family. The only down side is the 16.5 rims, tire sizes are limited. Over all the truck seems good from what you are describing, the only worry would be rust.
    Also not sure if the 203 case was used in 74.
  4. 75

    75 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,382

    While tire sizes ARE limited in the 16.5's, you can still get them with no problem. Also, 16" rims off newer (in the '80's) Chevy trucks will bolt right on if you prefer to run the 16's.

    Alan's right, 4 wheel drive models are K series, 2 wheel drives are C models. "Cheyenne" indicates a trim package and the "20" denotes 3/4 ton - "10" is a 1/2 ton, "30" is a 1 ton.

    Rust is a common problem on these trucks - as has been mentioned already, how much rot there is to contend with is an important thing to consider.

    If you DO decide to get the truck & repair the body,replacement panels ARE readily available and fairly inexpensive. Fenders, hood, doors & inner fenders are simply bolt-on panels. Corners, floors, cab mounts & rocker panels involve cutting & welding but the parts are plentiful.

    However, if you are looking for a truck to plow with THIS winter you might not want to get into a lot of bodywork.

    Mehanically, 3/4 tons from back in those days were built SOLID. T400 is a good strong trans, and you're right Alan - TargetMaster is GM. One thing to keep in mind - back in '74 they weren't worried about gas mileage in trucks - it'll be a thirsty one!
  5. Alan

    Alan PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,393

    Seriously, if you don't buy it, please let me know where it is, I'm definately interested. I need a project for next summer and that might make a good one. Can somebody confirm that 74 should still be points ignition? Seems like my foggy memory tells me that 75 was the year they went to HEI.
  6. 75

    75 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,382

    Your memory is fine Alan - 1975 was the first year for HEI.

    Of course, by now that truck might have had HEI installed - perhaps on the TargetMaster - since the whole ignition system is right there on the distributor.
  7. reallyrusty

    reallyrusty Member
    Messages: 71

    I have a 74 k20
    It has a np203 transfer case which was offered from 73-79
    and i have factory 16" wheels (they were available back then).
    along with the 16.5" (i think those are the split rims)

    One thing to note on this truck is the gas mileage is horrible and you may want to convert the case to part time to pick up a couple more mpg (I did). The np203 was different in 73 up thru mid 74 in that there is a thrust washer that you'll need from a later unit or access to surface grinder to machine the excess off the earlier one.

    just a thought
  8. 75

    75 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,382

    My '75 has always had one-piece 16.5" rims, but you're right, reallyrusty, split rims were pretty common back in the '70's - in both sizes. I have a pair of old 7.50-16LT snows on split rims, they're just "junker" tires for moving stuff around the shop though.
  9. Alan

    Alan PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,393

    Rob, I've gotta argue with you about 16.5" split rims. The original concept behind the switch to 16.5" rubber back in the 70s was to get into a light truck tubless tire. Having a split rim would have defeated the purpose behind that. I've seen 16" in both styles, but have never seen a 16.5 in anything other than a one piece, and hence, tubeless, configuraion.
  10. 75

    75 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,382

    I think you "got" me on that one Alan - I was going by what I had heard (first mistake) and what I thought (second mistake - thinking ALWAYS seems to get me in trouble!) were 16.5" split rims on the beater yard truck I had a few years ago. They're gone now, but they were probably a small 16" size - the tires were about the same height as the 8.75R16.5's on the back of my dually.

    Have an old "Facts about wheel & tire servicing" poster on the garage wall, took a look and sure enough, under "Multi-piece Rim Assemblies" there's no 16.5" ones listed. Looks like I'd better do more research before typing next time! :(

    Thanks for the correction - learned something new today.
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2001
  11. plowjockey

    plowjockey PlowSite.com Sponsor
    Messages: 622

    I had a set of 16.5 splits but they were very old and on one of those F-word trucks. Never on a Great Motoring vehicle.

  12. zamaro

    zamaro Junior Member
    Messages: 14

    ok reallyrusty


    first you guys have been great...

    second rusty ,
    whats the transfer case I need...?
    I am not looking to plow this winter...

    just get to work... get out of the driveway..{my daily driver is an 81 camaro... he he}

    I think I am going to get it... Ill keep you posted...



    Think a pair of chevy headers from a camaro say 70-81 will fit {clear} the stuff on the truck?

    it has the stock exhast manifolds and still the points....


  13. 75

    75 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,382

    I have a feeling headers from a Camaro may not fit a truck - but you won't know for sure unless you try 'em.

    Being from a "salt belt" area myself, I would be inclined to suggest NOT going with headers on a winter-driven vehicle. Years ago, I put a set of Aluma-Coat headers on my '75, and they did a good job but after a few seasons the rusties got 'em. I also found it a bit of a nuisance changing plugs (2 or 3, as I recall, required a wrench rather than socket) If the headers you put on are the regular "mild steel rustable" type, they'll probably get "rustied" pretty quick, especially if you're making short trips.

    What I have now are a set of the older "ram horn" (center outlet) manifolds piped into dual exhausts. Works good for me, and they're an older "stock" manifold so they'll last a long time.
  14. reallyrusty

    reallyrusty Member
    Messages: 71

    I like my np203 case as it is now and converted to part time.
    I have done light plowing with it (my driveway) but don't use it commercially like these other guys.
    The np205 case is the best (part time gear driven) with i think the 203 2nd (full time chain drive). Both cast iron cases.
    The part time kits they sell are bolt in for the 1975-79
    There is additional work needed for the 73-74 transfer case (thrust washer in rear). _ell if you get the truck and want to convert it mail the washer to me and I'll grind it for you).

    75 is right about the headers and besides sometimes header will reduce the amount of torque your engine is producing at low rpm and shift it upscale, depending on cam, carb and other factors.

    Sorry about the split rim missinformation I seem to remember them on trucks that were Fixed Or Repaired Daily in the 70's when i was working in a gas station, changing tires. They use to scare the _ell out of me. I can't remember the exact size anymore.
    I mind is a terrible thing to loose.

    Hope this helps
  15. zamaro

    zamaro Junior Member
    Messages: 14

    rusty, so i take and...

    So i take and can convert my trans case to part time?

    with grinding down the washer?
    and some other stuff im sure...

    if i call my local bone-yards and ask for a 205 trans case for 74-87 chevy how much will they tell me I need?
    will I get the right part?

    Without even looking at a 4x4 setup like this before its hard for me to "think" about how it all works...

    anyway thanks

  16. reallyrusty

    reallyrusty Member
    Messages: 71

    yes. you can convert the np203 case to part time if you wish.
    The kit will contain everything you need except the correct thrust washer. This is the part they want you to get from another later case (75-79 np203) or you can grind down the one that is in there.

    The np205 case is already a partime case and the internals are completely different than a 203 (it back geared and not chained)

    hope this helps
  17. zamaro

    zamaro Junior Member
    Messages: 14

  18. 75

    75 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,382

    Looks like the truck might need some TLC, but if you're willing to put some $ and effort into it I'd say "get it".

    One thing I would check out: Those roof lights look like they're aftermarket units, depending on how long they've been on there & how well the mounting holes were sealed up, water may have gotten inside the cab (there are 2 "layers", the water would be between them) and caused some hard-to-repair rust damage. Not saying that will be case, just something to watch out for.

    As I mentioned in a previous reply, the bolt-on panels are easy to replace. Fixing rust/rust holes on the cab shell itself is a lot more involved.

    Also, the trans/transfer case should be checked out thoroughly. T400's are a good strong transmission, but if there are a lot of miles on this one it might be time for an overhaul.

    Your pic kinda reminds me of how my '75 looked when I bought it, w-a-y back in 1986! :)
  19. reallyrusty

    reallyrusty Member
    Messages: 71

    take a close look at your front cab mounts.
    By the look of the lines of the door and fender, You could be settling in the front.
    Just two cents
  20. zamaro

    zamaro Junior Member
    Messages: 14

    the door hinges

    The door hinges are "bad" ... ie you open the door and can move the door up and down a little...

    This action had caued the door "guts" not to work as well...

    the latch that goes over the pin to shut it...