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Help with Meyer E-60 QuickLift

Discussion in 'Truck & Equipment Repair' started by RKosie, Nov 30, 2008.

  1. RKosie

    RKosie Junior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 3

    I'm new to this site and was wondering if I could get some advice on a problem I am experiencing. The plow was stored outside during the past summer here in Ohio (covered with a tarp). This fall I hooked it up and ran it a bit then changed the oil (meyer oil). I've tested the B and C coils and they seem to be fine. I've removed the B and C valves and soaked them in kerosene and cleaned, then I replaced the rings on them. The plow is noticeably quicker and seems fine EXCEPT:

    Once in a while (1 or 2 times per route) the plow will angle left and not STOP angling left even if I turn the control unit off. When I press right it will go right and when I let go of the button it goes full speed back left. Look mom no hands! up/down same thing. keeps wanting to head left (FULL SPEED). If I let go it will go all the way left motor running and doesn't stop. Eventually when I keep fighting it right/left it will stop. Sometimes its a horror show for 2-3min of left/rights. It seems this happens right after I go to the right and let off the button before I do anything else.

    2am Left/Right for 2min is LOUD and annoying. Also it heading left full speed on its own after I press right (I think) is dangerous when pulling back from buildings/cars etc. SO:

    My semi novice take on this was I probably need a new C-Valve? I just wanted some opinions before I went out and threw 100 dollars into the wind.

    Also, if this IS the case, is there any way to rebuild a C-Valve?

    Thanks in advance.

    Bob in Ohio
  2. Crash935

    Crash935 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    I would lean more towards a bad motor solenoid. If your turning off or unplugging the controller there is no signal going to any valves or the solenoid, a stuck motor solenoid would keep the motor running and force fluid to the path of least resistance, ie left.
  3. firepi57

    firepi57 Junior Member
    from maine
    Messages: 5

    same problem

    hi bob i am expericence the same problem and was wondering how u fixed yours if you could help me out by e mailing me at firepi57@hotmail.com thank you dale
  4. lake_effect

    lake_effect Junior Member
    Messages: 19

    Gotta agree with this.

    Had the same happening off and on last season with my E-60. Annoying as hell....only way to stop it (temporarily) was to hop out and unplug the lift power cable.

    Replaced my motor solenoid (ooops...broke off a terminal) and hasn't happened since.

    Makes sense as I believe the default position (motor runs w/ no valves) is angle left for these units.
  5. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,993

    It could be a sticking 12Volt motor soleniod, though since you say the motor kicks in on the down cycle I doubt it.

    Touchpad control? Try a differant control and see if that fixes it.
  6. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Or unplug the controller when it takes off on it's own to see if it instantly stops. That'll tell you right away that its a controller issue.

    Normally yes I'd say a sticking UHS as the other guys mentioned too...but not if it engages the motor when you press the lower function.
  7. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,993

    That'd work, I know "unplugging" works for me when I have my motor running:DLOL
  8. RKosie

    RKosie Junior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 3

    Little More Information and game plan

    Well thanks for all the really great replies. I wanted to add a bit more information. Turning off / Unplugging the controller does not matter, it keeps going left.

    I wasn't really SURE when it would START doing it, as I said I thought it happened most when I was angling to the right. When it does it I have many other things on my mind other than a diagnosis, although I did try to pay attention. I don't REMEMBER it doing it when it was lowering.

    ALSO I forgot to mention that sometimes it would make a click-motor solenoid-sound and the plow would not raise/angle etc. Now that you guys have mentioned the main solenoid it is all falling into a game plan I am pretty confident in.

    So after all the REALLY EXCELLENT ADVISE I am going to replace the Motor Solenoid as advised. That would make sense and I am about 99% sure that is what it is. The thing that REALLY threw me off was my Chevy Silverado (2002) has a feature where if you turn the ignition key off there will still be power in the cab until you open the door, so key off / plow will still work. It was like a serious ghost in the machine: Controller off, still going, Controller unplugged, still going, KEY OFF: STILL GOING

    If it's the Motor Solenoid I will be VERY happy: $12 is much better than a new C-Valve.

    I will keep you guys posted.ussmileyflag
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2008
  9. kashman

    kashman PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,070

    yes it is and ill bet thats your problem
  10. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    If it's never done it when the lower button is pressed then yes, the motor solenoid should definitely fix it.

    In your original post you made it sound like it would run when the lower button was pressed, which is why some of us mentioned a possible controller issue...as thats really the only way it could.

    Good luck with your easy fix. :waving:
  11. firepi57

    firepi57 Junior Member
    from maine
    Messages: 5

    e-60 quick lift

    thank you guys for all the advise it turned out to be my motor silynoid one i replaced it with was a lot bigger then the old one but i think it may last longer
  12. RKosie

    RKosie Junior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 3

    Fixed (well so far so good)

    I replaced the exising Meyer 15370 with some generic thing i picked up. The woman said that the box had "Meyer" on it so it must be ok. When I connected it all up and tried it, the solenoid clicked very fast on and off, similar to the battery being dead (20-30x per/sec). I sized the replacement solenoid as being defective or the improper size. My guess was a faulty internal ground. I went to an actual Meyer Dealer...


    ...I purchased the 15370 and hooked it up, works great. Some advice I picked up along that way I'll share:

    When connecting the Motor Solenoid, run a 14-guage ground wire from one of the bolts to an engine ground. Even though the bolt going into the cross frame should be ground it's better to be safe than sorry (in my case I wouldn't have known if the new solenoid was bad or if I had a funny ground on the frame. The cost of the generic solenoid was $12 dollars and worked sporadically to not at all. The cost of the Meyer 15370 motor solenoid was $18 dollars and works very well. So far all of the prior symptoms are gone and all seems fixed. I probably could have found the solenoid a bit cheaper but our Meyer dealer isn't a very big dealer and doesn't get the breaks larger ones get. Also, I didn't want SAM or any other generic. From here out I will only put Meyer stuff on this plow.

    Thanks for all the help and great advise.