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help with gas to electric conversion.

Discussion in 'Commercial Snow Removal' started by Four Seasons, Nov 30, 2013.

  1. Four Seasons

    Four Seasons Senior Member
    Messages: 163

    I want to rebuild my old sander and switch over to electric. Im going to have a mechanic friend do the work but I need to get the parts. I have no clue on everything I need. Can anyone give me the rundown on parts and sizes, etc. I can take whatever measurements may be needed.

    CARDOCTOR PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,312

    not really that hard to do. i lucked out and found a 3/4 hp lesco 12v motor on ebay.or check out grainger for the motor and pulley or sprocket. i run a 27 series deep cycle battery on the spreader and ran a set of 2gauge cables( originally old battery booster cables) from the truck battery to the spreader battery which gives the advantage of extra amps while plowing. you need a constant /hd starter solenoid (same as the solenoid for the plow pump) do not cheap out on this part.. 2 wires one to turn on the motor thru the solenoid which control's drag chain and spinner and another wire to turn on the clutch.

    sorry for the ebonics cant type worth s--t
  3. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,993

    You need to find a motor that has 1800 RPM to operate properly. Your 54 to 1 gear box should work. You can get the proper number of teeth for the sprockets off most any spreader manufacturers site. Just go to any single engine electric spreader manual that will show you how it's laid out.
  4. Four Seasons

    Four Seasons Senior Member
    Messages: 163

    thanks. Are there any good kits for this even if its a bit more expensive, might be worth the convenience.
  5. Four Seasons

    Four Seasons Senior Member
    Messages: 163

    another question. If my truck has pto prep should I set it up as hydraulic instead?
  6. joeyg999

    joeyg999 Member
    from Kansas
    Messages: 79

    I just did on last year I used a Ebay motor 3/4 hp with a 12t sprocket on it. I took the 48t off and replaced it with a 70t. The 48t would overload when starting with 2+ tons in the box. On the shaft with the 70t there is another sprocket below the clutch it is a 13t connected to the spinner shaft is a 12t. The clutch on mine would not lock up when power was put to it so I welded it instead of trying to get it off.y678

    With the larger sprocket there is plenty of start up torque now and it throws the salt nice. Your going to need a constant duty solenoid and some Anderson connecters to button it all up.

    Here is a few pictures I have others that ill not load up that I can email.



  7. derekbroerse

    derekbroerse 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    I converted my stainless steel Flink in 2009 I believe. 3/4 Leeson motor. I removed the electric clutch and went direct drive, sometimes I wish I hadn't but I think its more reliable with less parts. As stated you need a constant duty solenoid. My motor draws 58 amps. Powerful, throws great, reliable.

    On the same note, I ordered a spare motor up for it since mine has been in service for four+ seasons already. Price on the motor at the supplier has almost doubled ($580+ tax, shipping etc. now!) but there is a guy on ebay right now with them new in the box for $300 shipped... so I bought it and its currently waiting at my post box in NY! I'll get it tuesday...

    One of the best things I did was ditch the gas motor! No fuel to add all the time, no noise, instant startup... would do it again and again in a heartbeat!