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help with brake bleeders

Discussion in 'Commercial Snow Removal' started by xlr8, Dec 6, 2004.

  1. xlr8

    xlr8 Senior Member
    Messages: 107

    Can anyone tell me how to remove frozen brake bleeders and lines? I have sprayed it, stripped it,and broke an easy out in it. Any ideas ?????

    POWERBAND Member
    Messages: 70

    Bloody bleeders...

    In my experience really rusty wheel cylinder bleeders and the dubl flare lines/fittings have two options of repair:
    1) first is to heat the whl cyl with a propane or mapp torch around the fitting and then see if I can work it loose with A) a tubing wrench B) vise grips C) a mini pipe wrench.
    2) After this the bleeder, and fittings are either loose or so mangled I proceed to replacing the whl cylinder and/or lines and flare fittings.

    I feel your pain: I got rid of my (T)rusty 85 K10 last year and I gave the new owner a brand new rear wheel cylinder because I replaced one side but on the other side I could not get the brake drum off with: heat - solvent - BFH - nothing!. I finally gave up and luckily it never leaked.
    PB :cool:
  3. Robhollar

    Robhollar Senior Member
    Messages: 766

    Line bleed it. It takes a little longer but it should work if your carefull. If that doest work just replace the wheel cyl. The time your working on it you could have replaced them already...Rob
  4. cntryboymc

    cntryboymc Member
    Messages: 53

    from my past experience i would try to heat the bleeders first.if that doesnt work,just replace the lines and wheel cylinders.they are fairly cheap,easy to replace,and are probably in need of replacing anyway.
  5. Robhollar

    Robhollar Senior Member
    Messages: 766

    Heat? No way man not me. Id never heat anything that has to do with brakes. I never fool around with my brakes. If you cant bleed it just repace it. It sure beats having to pull your truck out of some drift some where at 3 am.....Rob
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2004
  6. Mebes

    Mebes Senior Member
    Messages: 451

    I agree with Rob.

    Don't heat anything on the brake system unless you are heating just to get it loose for replacement.

    There are seals in wheel cylinders and on the pistons in the calipers.
  7. xlr8

    xlr8 Senior Member
    Messages: 107

    Thanks for all the help Guys . I have replaced the lines(rear) and am trying to line bleed as suggested , but now the front lines are leaking and my patience has worn thin so I called it a night and will get back to it later this morning.
  8. skmodmsl

    skmodmsl Member
    Messages: 43

    Unfortunately brake bleeders like to get stuck. I just replace the cylinders with new units. This is what I do to keep the bleeders from becoming seized.

    I remove the bleeders from any new cylinder or caliper and give the threads a good dose of anti-seize. Another trick that I learned came from being a SAAB mechanic. SAAB puts rubber caps on the bleeders to prevent water from entering the opening. That is what causes the bleeders to seize. In my 10 + years of working on SAABs I have never run into a stuck bleeder.
  9. Robhollar

    Robhollar Senior Member
    Messages: 766

    I use antiseize on just about everything i do. And yes the caps will help too. Good post guys...Rob
  10. EskiePages

    EskiePages Junior Member
    Messages: 14

    I side with the suggestion of just replacing the wheel cylinders and any lines needing it as well. Just did pretty much a whole brake job(front and rear....metal and rubber lines, cylinders, calipers, pads, shoes, everything but one front line, drums and rotors) on an '84 Jeep pickup this fall. Had to bleed them alone at night.....NOT fun! But was a ton easier with new brake bleeders on the cylinders and calipers!! One of the wheel cylinder's bolt heads were rounded off and NO room for a ratchet or breaker bar with socket to fit in there...and forget wrenches. GOOD flat jaw(with good teeth) vise grips popped them loose in no time. Replaced bolts with new.

    Worst brake job I had was when a rear line rusted through on a '77 Jeep pickup a few years ago on me. Theoretically I only needed to replace that one rear section. Uh-huh....yeh, right! Ended up doing a a whole rear brake job! Lines were rusted at the cylinders, so no getting them of there. Wheel cylinder bolt heads were so rounded there were like caps.....no getting a grip, nothing! I ended up taking the dremel(and only had the cheap cutting disks on hand) and had to CUT through the wheel cylinders. That's cast iron, and took a while! But got them out, replaced with new, and was slick putting back on!

    Not sure about other rigs, but for the old Jeeps the cylinders are about $10 each, and with lines and shoes, etc. a whole rear brake job is worth it! Just a PITA if all rusted. Been there, lived through it. But like all new when done so I know I won't be fixing a line in the middle of a storm or something! Or for a long time for that matter!

    PS...another thing to consider for bleeders is those Speedbleeders....sort of a built in one-man bleeder kit! Have heard good things about them. I also second the little "rubber caps" already mentioned for the bleeder tits.

    Wish ya well.....ain't no fun, but you'll be glad when it's all done!

    Take care....
  11. xlr8

    xlr8 Senior Member
    Messages: 107

    Well thats a lot of great advice. Ive come to the conclusion to replace every thing as suggested. This way I'm sure it will stop. Thanks for all the advice . ...
    Oh yeah, one more ? Can someone please tell me the difference between a loaded caliper,a semi loaded or a unloaded caliper? Thanks Again
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2004
  12. kcolagio

    kcolagio Junior Member
    Messages: 6

  13. Robhollar

    Robhollar Senior Member
    Messages: 766

    A "loaded caliper" is nothing more then a caliper with the pads installed already when you buy them...Rob