HELP!! Boss Install on Chevy

jdjoe_97

Member
Location
NE Indiana
Hey guys I need some help. I am just getting underway on the install on my 98 Chevy silverado. I am having problems right away getting the push beam support brackets bolted to the frame. I have the drivers side on finally after about an hour. I had to put a little pressure on the bumper with a jack to get the holes lined back up. On the passenger side I can get two out of the three started. The third is mission impossible. I cannot get that darn thing started to save my soul. Any suggestions?? Also any other tips and tricks would be appreciated. I am heading out to give it another whirl til I loose my temper. Then I will be back to see what you guys think. Thanks Joe
 
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jdjoe_97

Member
Location
NE Indiana
NO I didn't remove the bumper and grill. The instructions say just to take the three bolts on each side of the frame out that bolt to the bumper. Then replace the bolts with the provided longer ones to bolt through the support plates. Joe
 

CT18fireman

Banned
Location
Western CT
I am not familiar with Boss plows. I have found that Fishers usually have more bolts and on new trucks they line up easily. On older trucks that have twisted sometimes a little tweaking is needed. Meyer usually only has a few bolts on each side. Sometimes they line up sometimes not. I don't think there quality control in subframes is that great.

Usually I take the bumper off to allow for room and not risk damaging the bumper. I would suggest this. Sometimes you have to persuade the pieces a little with a floor jack or other tools. They may have been dropped or bent at some point. If the bolt hole is close you may have to just enlarge the hole. If it is no where close then you may have a slight model change in the truck or plow that maked it not work.
 
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jdjoe_97

Member
Location
NE Indiana
No offense but...

Hehe.. well its in the post title. Its a 8'2" Power V Steel Boss. I am pretty sure I will have to leave the bumper on in order to bolt to the brakets with the threads. These are attached to the bumper. I will go and look though since two of you have suggested taking the bumper off. Joe
 

DEISL

Member
Location
LOWER MERION PA
i would not suggest drilling any holes in your rail, it tends to ruin the INTEGRITY of the strength of the rail.also depending on your warranty you will VOID it.
 
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jdjoe_97

Member
Location
NE Indiana
just a thought.

I won't drill anything. Just a note, no warranty left on the truck so that is not a problem. I was thinking of going and getting a metric tap to run through that bad hole and see if that will clean it out. Thing is I bet that will cost $20 for a tool I will use once, on the other hand $20 may be cheap if I spend another 3 hours!!! Joe
 

CT18fireman

Banned
Location
Western CT
Like I said I am not super knowledgable on Boss plows. I know that some Fisher and Meyer plows goinf onto Fords require drilling of new holes. It really will not affect the integrety that much. Will the bolt go in before the frame is on? If so I would really suggest just enlarging the hole on the plow frame IF everything else lines up.
 
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jdjoe_97

Member
Location
NE Indiana
No, I can't get the bolt to start into the hole without the bracket on either. I just got back with a tap for the hole I don't know if I can get it started either, not much room at all. I hate to say this but, if I absolutely cannot get it in, would two bolt hold it?? I know I really think it ought to have the third in. But I am running out of options. Joe
 

CT18fireman

Banned
Location
Western CT
I would think if Boss calls for 3 bolts then you want 3 bolts in. Usually multiple bolts prevent leveraging of the frame.

Is this under the bumper? Why can you not get room to start the tap? Start removing stuff until you can get room to run the tap.

Not to ask an obvious question but are you sure you are trying to get the right bolt in the hole? Are the threads the same?
 

Duncan IN

Member
Instructions,

I know you have these I just posted so others may read and give info. I tried to put the diagram on here but It would not work.

The mounting procedure outlined below covers CHEVROLET Classic Body Style (1988 -2000)
½, ¾, and 1 ton trucks. You will need to refer to the illustrations and familiarize yourself
with each of the undercarriage components and their relative position to each other. Then
proceed as follows:
1. Remove the three bumper mounting bolts on each frame rail. Remove tow hooks if
present, and the corresponding tapped plate inside the frame rail. Insert the NUT PLATES (Ref
62C, Fig. 1) into the front frame rails. Position the PUSH BEAM SUPPORT PLATES (Ref. 62A
and B, Fig. 1) to the front frame rails of the truck. Using M14 x 2.00 Hex Head Bolts and M14
Lock Washers provided, bolt the PUSH BEAM SUPPORT PLATES through the outside of the
frame sides. Next use the ½” – 13 x 3” hex head bolts and the ½” flat washers to bolt the PUSH
BEAM SUPPORT PLATES through the bottom of the frame into the NUT PLATES. If the truck
is equipped with tow hooks, it will be necessary to re-install the right hook on the left side of the
truck and the left hook on the right side of the truck. Tow hooks should be installed below the
PUSH BEAM SUPPORT PLATES. Fasteners should only be finger tight.
2. Remove the four existing bolts holding the skid plate in place on the vehicle. Use the
same four hex head bolts to mount the ANGLE BRACKET (Ref. 75, Fig. 1) into place on the
outside of the skid plate. Bolts should only be finger tight.
3. Bolt the PUSH BEAM (Ref. 62, Fig. 1) in place using the ½” – 13 x 1- ½” hex head bolts
and self locking nuts provided. Fasteners should only be finger tight. NOTE: the proper height
adjustment for the PUSH BEAM is approximately 15- ½” from the ground to the center of the
PUSH BEAM pin receiving hole (See Figure 2).
4. With all undercarriage parts in place, securely fasten all mounting hardware. It is
important that all fasteners be properly torqued (see Fig. 3) to assure a safe operating plow.
 
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jdjoe_97

Member
Location
NE Indiana
Duncan

No matter what the instructions say it's easier said then done. Well to let you all know I finally got a 14mm tap to go in and clean up the threads. Then I got the bolt in. I just now got the hardware installed on the truck. Next to tackle is the wiring. I must say Boss is very very close on there measurements. I had to work hard to get the holes lined up to get all the bolts in. Thanks guys for your help. Off to the garage again. Joe
 
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Ohiosnow

Senior Member
Location
Ohio
Joe I know your done but I had the same problem, I called the boss teck help & they said to take a ratail file & file the 1 side. It was only less than 64th of a inch of filing and it went right in. Of corse you had to take off the other 2 bolts to do it but then you can file in a vice. Sorry I'm too late to help. Brent :(
 
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jdjoe_97

Member
Location
NE Indiana
Thanks Guys

Well the plow is assembled, and the hardware is on the truck. I just have the wiring like I had mentioned to do. I do have one quesiton. In the directions it tells me to splice into the turn signal on the passengers side. Then on the drivers they have me splicing into the turn and running lights. My question is on a 98 chevy there are two bulbs in each front signal light. Both light up when just the running lights are on and both flash when the turn signal is flashing. The instructions don't do me much good on this area. Do you think I should splice into the drivers side marker lamp (little orange side light) for the turns?? Anyone who has done this, I beg you to give me some insight. Thanks again, Joe
 
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