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Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by BrendonV, Oct 7, 2002.

  1. BrendonV

    BrendonV Junior Member
    Messages: 15

    i am about to put valve cover gaskets on. i got the rubber ones. Where do i put the sealent, on the block or on the valve cover???becasue if there is sealent on both the block and valve cover, the gaskets slips around and will end up leaking.

    thanks brendonv
  2. karl klein

    karl klein Senior Member
    Messages: 557

    when i changed mine i used a gasket glue in between the cover and gasket then a silicone between gasket in block. works great.
  3. Chuck Smith

    Chuck Smith 2000 Club Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 2,317

    I use 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive (yellow gorilla snot) on the valve cover. Nothing on the head side. Remember to torque the valve cover bolts to spec, which is 17 Ft Lbs. If you over tighten the bolts, the gaskets will leak. The more you tighten, the more they leak. I always use cork gaskets (Fel Pro), as I have had bad luck with rubber.

  4. TurfPlus

    TurfPlus Senior Member
    Messages: 179

    I also use 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive or HighTack on just about everything. Just sucks cleaning it off the next gasket change. Snap on has a great plastic surface prep disc that removes the gaskets without removing any metal.

  5. mstyles0927

    mstyles0927 Junior Member
    Messages: 20

    I have always heard (and followed) the advice that you should NOT put adhesive or silicone, etc on the engine side. Only use it on the cover itself and then place the gasket correctly on the cover. Let it set up for a couple of minutes and then attach to the engine, making sure to not overtighten, or like already said, it will leak.
  6. Chuck Smith

    Chuck Smith 2000 Club Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 2,317

    3M also makes the little discs for an angle grinder. We call them "cookies". They take the gasket right off, and leave the steel OK. Be careful. When I polish cast aluminum, the first thing I use to take off the cast finish and begin smoothing is a 3M cookie. It eats the aluminum fast. The cookies screw into the disc holder with a 1/2 turn, so changing them is easy and fast.

    Like I said, be careful with aluminum valve covers and other aluminum surfaces.

  7. SQRLY1

    SQRLY1 Junior Member
    Messages: 6

    Glue them to the cover and properly torque them like chuck said.

    Let them set until they don't move before you install them like MStyles said.

    The year makes a big difference here. 92 and up use center bolt valve covers and a machined flat edge on the head. On those the torque is not as important, you can just make the bolts tight and the rubber gaskets work very well as well as being reusable many times.

    On the older styles, torque is extremely important. First you need to check the gasket surface for flatness. If they're already bent, just go buy some new ones. You can usually find a set of decent chrome covers for about $30. Make sure to get some spreaders too. The stock ones are pretty small or may be missing. I recommend the 2" wide ones. The cork gaskets usually work better on these but you'll need to re torque them after about a week.

    If you use the gorilla snot properly on both sides, chances of them leaking are almost nill, but so are the chances of getting them back off without bending them.