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fisher trip springs

Discussion in 'Truck & Equipment Repair' started by BoulderBronco, Mar 21, 2006.

  1. BoulderBronco

    BoulderBronco Senior Member
    Messages: 233

    I screwed up and let my cutting edge get to worn and it wore into the main blade edge. It wore into it enough that it wore the bottom trip spring mounts and into the bolts. So the bolt holes are now half holes and naturally the springs just popped out. My question is how to get the springs back in? I am just going to drill new holes as there is still room on that bottom bracket. I figured I would flip the plow upside down to start but then what? I am just wondering what the best/ easiest procedure is. BTW it is a fisher 7.5 blade about 15 years old, three springs.
  2. douglasl330

    douglasl330 Senior Member
    Messages: 356

    Two things have to be done you have to weld new tabs(trip edge) with holes for your new spring assembly that you will have to buy! You can try pressing(old ones) them back on the the bars you have and redrilling, but you will spend the better part of a day and may risk injury! Most Fisher dealers sell the springs for about $100 a piece. Lets see you need three! Hey want to buy one with a new cutting edge on it and a snow foil? $300 sounds like a good price and you can save yours as a back up blade! I have one sitting that didn't get used as a backup blade!
  3. tessdad

    tessdad Member
    from S.E. MA
    Messages: 71

    If you were to drill new holes in the spring mounts and get the springs in there, you would be putting more spring pressure on the trip edge, this would require more force to trip the blade, and not be the best situation.
    New spring mounts can be bought from Fisher or fabricated and then welded on.
    I do a few of these a year and have made up a spring installer. On the older type Fishers, additional notches need to be cut into the top spring mounting plate to draw the spring into place. Without the right tools this is a very dangerous job.
    I charge $210.00 (for a 3 sping plow) to remove the old spring mounts, weld on new, paint repairs, re-install the original springs. This is a labor only charge, if the spring bars are worn also, they will need to be fixed or replaced.
    If you can't do the welding yourself, (it needs to be welded in a VERY good manner), check around for a local welding shop.
    Where in MA are you?
  4. justme-

    justme- 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,138

    And that is NOT soft steel so drilling it isn't going to be like drilling pine....

    Either have it repaired properly or buy a new trip edge from Fisher.

    If you don;t want to buy new springs (which is the best option on a plow of that age) you need a spring compressor. Fisher sells one for their springs, but I believe a well placed Strut compressor would work just as well. I would use the 2 piece style that clamps from the sides instead of the more common center pull style. Any auto parts store that rents tools will have them available.

    Either way fix the trip edge properly.
  5. BoulderBronco

    BoulderBronco Senior Member
    Messages: 233

    Thanks for the advice guys. It's going to be a bit warmer this weekend so I will screw with it then.
  6. Nascar24

    Nascar24 Senior Member
    Messages: 645

    Spring repairs

    Man too bad you wern't closer to home , I'm doing the exact same repairs! lol

    Check with SAM or CPW they sell aftermarket spring bars I think they run about $25 each , you also see them on my favorite store E-Bay for few bucks less.

    I have to also replace the attachment points for the spring bars as well, I'll have to cut the worn ones off and fab up new ones and re-weld them in.

    I just got mine back from the sand blaster yesterday, no more powder coating! yippee

    Once I get all the welding repairs done it will get two coats of self etch anti-corrosive primer and three coats of Nason 2K Urethane Sun Yellow!