Fisher rust

Fisher-man

Junior Member
Location
new hampshire
Hello everyone,

I have a question to ask. I have a 6.5' Fisher plow that I bought brand new 6 years ago. It had the new powder coat paint surface and looked really sharp at the time, at least for the plow, but the headgear had marginal black paint, at best. The paint job started going south about three years ago, but I decided this year I would address it. I began sandblasting it, and found the rust going clear though the moldboard! I know some rust should be expected, but is this extreme? I noticed the paint flakes off in big chunks. My neighbor says there's no primer on it. This has me kind of mad, since I expected it to stand up better than this. Does anyone else have a similar problem?
 

chtucker

Senior Member
Powder Coat usually does not get primer. Poor powder coating performance is the result of poor preperation.

I won't comment on what Fisher does, but here is what I have had good luck with.. (my ENTIRE 1976 Bronco, YES the ENTIRE BODY was powder coated)

1: Sanblast
2: Bake at 400 for 1 hour (Burns off any residue)
3: Apply powder coat (electrostatically with thousands of volts)
4: Bake for 20 minutes

Any time you see flaking of powder coating it is generally because of poor methods.

Powder coating technology has come a long way, BMW is using a clear powder coat as their final clear coat these days.

Take it to professional shop to have it re-coated.

Howard
 

CT18fireman

Banned
Location
Western CT
Fisher and Western had problems with their powder coat for many years. They may have addressed this now with better cleaning prior to coating.

All of my blades were sandblasted and repainted as soon as the flaking started. The primer/topcoat paint I sprayed on has lasted very well and all we do is touch it up in the spring and fall.

As for rust all the way through you could patch it but may be better off buying a new moldboard. 6.5 is not an easy find though.
 

Chuck Smith

2000 Club Member
Location
NJ
The problem with your pwder coating is a problem with powder coating in general. The reason chtucker has not had problems is that his body is not chipped and nicked regularly.

Moldboards are not the best candidate for powder coating. Things that don't get nicked are. For instance roll bars hold up great, and even tube bumpers (which get some nicks).

Once powder coating is nicked, and rust starts, it travels behind the powder coating. The same thing happened to a Bobcat mower I have, big "fish eyes" of rust all over it.

At work yesterday, I found a door for a grass catcher (outdoors behind a shelf), which was powder coated. It looked like new. I pulled it out, and saw a few bubbled spots on it. I knew what I would find, and I was right. I was able to peel HUGE pieces of powder coating off it, and almost 50% of it was rusted beneath the powder coat. If that same piece was painted, it would have far less rust on it. This piece was just laying around out in the weather. Had we kept it indoors, it probably would still be like new. We all know most plows sit outdoors (and we all wish we could keep them indoors).

These are mowers, and mower parts, that get nicked, and rained on, and this is what happens. Take a piece of steel, powder coat it, nick it, and soak it in salt repeatedly, and you have a real rust problem. There is no way to address it, other than stripping off the powder coating, and going with paint. You can't paint over powder coating and expect it to hold up.

Urethane is a good choice for plows.

~Chuck
 

cat320

2000 Club Member
Location
stoneham,ma
well my Diamond was not powder coated but when it started to rust i sanded the whole blade down and removed all rust,then primed with and industrial red primer,then i used and automotive primer then i gave it 4 coats of a polyurathan paint .And every year recoat as needed.My blade looks very good.But like every thing else it is the prep that counts .:)
 

Jerre Heyer

Senior Member
Location
Erie, PA
Welcome to the problem with all powder coated plows. Thank the goverment too. Too much off gassing from the paint processes and they mandated a change. The Western engineers said during a tour that they wish they could still paint with epoxy or urethane paint but they were in the city and had no choice due to enviromental concerns.

We used to sandblast the blades but it was a pain to get the powder coat that was still holding fast.

About 5 years ago we started scraping and wire wheeling the blades to remove the loose material. Then we use RUSTOLEUM paints to cover the blade. The next year we re-scrape to pull more of the power coat and re-paint. By the 3rd year most of the powder coat is gone and the paint does it all. This keeps the areas that have blistered or rusted from getting worse and keeps the blade looking good.

Jerre
 

chtucker

Senior Member
I also have the advantage of NO SALT on the roads.


We powder coated my friends blade for his snow cat, Minor nicks, but the rust never undermined the surrounding coating. Its not the greatest, but they do make touch up paint for powder coat.

My wheel wells have held up extremely well. But I am going to line-x them soon just in case.
 

CT18fireman

Banned
Location
Western CT
I think for a while Fisher was recalling blades that were peeling. I see Minute Mounts all the time that cannot be more then 5-7 years old that have absoulutely no coating on the face of the moldboard.

I will stay with the epoxy primer and paint.
 
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