I was just wondering if any of you guys with these mounters take off the stoppers off the head gears. Reason being, my new minimount will not stack snow any higher than the hood of my truck. My older Fisher, Boss and Western plows stack way higher. Right now the plow at full height only goes 13". Do they put stoppers on so that when the plows jump going down the road it won't break the head gear or something else on the frame?
Make sure the lift chain is adjusted right. If you have a lot of the ram exposed when the plow is down then it wont lift as high. I have a 71/2' minute mount it stacks about 6' high if not more depending on how much I beat the truck up. Once you get a stack going the plow will actualy ride up it higher then the ram lifts it anyway.
Be careful when adjusting that lift chain and where it hits the stops. I have the same problem in that the plow only lifts sooo high due to those stops. Your lift ram should reach the top of its height before it hits these stops. If it doesnt, you'll break the bottom lug right off your plow pump because the ram is going to keep trying to raising that plow blade but the stops wont budge. Something has to give and its the lug by design. Learned this from experience. To try to gain a little height (I mean veryyyy little) check to see which holes on the a-frame the chain is mounted to. If the chain is in the front holes closest the plow, moving them back to the second set closer to the truck. This will help lift the plow a little higher. Have never thought my fisher was a great stacker but by far better in every way then the other meyers plows I use. NOT buying these six to 25 foot stacking stories for a minute. Trucks are for plowing, loaders are for stacking. Right tool for the job does it best everytime. CMerLand
I agree with 66. Make some chain adjustments. My minute mount & some subs I've used with them stack much better than the Western & Meyers we are also using. As a matter of fact I was just looking at it the other day because I thought maybe the stops had broken. I couldn't believe how high off the ground the plow was. I guess I never really looked at it all the way up from outside of the truck. Surprised me.
I haven't notice this on the Fisher, mine seem to stack fine. I did however cut the stops off of my friends Meyer. The stops on the tube lift frame limited him. I advised against it but he wanted the off. It does stack higher but I wonder if it is putting stress on other components.
Kinda makes you wonder... I don't think they put those stops there just to add some more time to the manufacturing process.
I wonder if he will still be your friend after he damages his truck or plow! John you are right the manufactor must of had extra metal lying around the shop and it wasn't quitting time yet. Remember don't send a pickup to do a Loaders job.
That was what I told him. It is there for a reason. He wanted it off. Hey when he breaks something and then I have to weld it in the middle of a storm that is more money for me. I gave hime plenty of warning.
Once you get the plow adjusted right,try working on the technique.You can stack pretty high with any truckplow if it is done right.If you have a lot of snow to stack,lift the blade a few seconds earlier,and build a little snow ramp to get it higher.I had plowed for years,but when i made the switch to bigger trucks and electric driven hydros,i had to change my technique a little.Some times were just so h*ll bent to get the job done we tend to rush and overlook proper technique.I have found this with some subs we have hired.Takes them twice as long to do the lot,yet it looks as if they are plowing faster.Meanwhile they are just beating up their truckplow,burning more fuel,and wasting time.
I've never had a problem stacking with the Fisher,it stacks plenty high,Id say about 7-8 ft without trouble or abusing anything,I do stack in low range slowly,so if it does not ride up,the impact is not to much.I never pick the plow up slighty,this puts a tremendous amount of pressure on the headgeat/pump assy,becasue the plow kinda digs in and trys to pull down the front of the truck a lot of times.Mike said it best-dont send a truck to do a loaders job.The base lug on one of my fishers just started to leak,I checked the others and they were loose,anyone with the Fisher/western electric might want to put a 1/2" wrench on both bolts on their base lugs to make sure they are still tight.Once they leak,you need a new O-ring.
i can stack 8 feet + with my Fisher w/snofoil with no problem. I found a puddle under my plow during the last storm, the hex head plugs were all loose (fill, full level, and drain!) not sure if I didnt tighten enough last fall or the expansion/contraction of aluminum housing vs iron plugs caused em to loosen. I will dig out the installation instructions that came with my plow and see where the chain should be set. I think that the a frame should be tight to the stops but im not 100% sure.
After buying the truck on the first day, I noticed that the chain was not adjusted properly, so I tended to it! The chain on the a frame won't help either because the plow when it is in the up position is bottomed out on the head gear. I think they put the stops there so the blade does not jump going down the road and I just think they made them to long. Also, I know it is not my technique, because I have been plowing for many years with different plows and could stack snow with all of them but this one. The plow does not raise more than 13" off the ground, because it is always in contact witht he stoppers, where as the older fishers, if the plow was raised 13" from the ground, there was till plenty of space between the a frame and the head gear. I also noticed that on the Fisher Vs they do not have the stoppers on them. But then again, if I do take them off I don't want to brake anything. Tomorrow I will call the factory to ask them and make sure. The only thing that I did not try was changing the positions on the A frame to the frame. I have got them on the bottom hole which makes the a frame paralel to the ground, which is what i believe it should be.
Scott what holes are those? I know on the old style fisher plows they ahve three different mounting holes, but on the MM the a frame only has one set of holes. Dino
My Minute Mount has 3 holes to choose from. You can adjust the position that the "plow frame" connects to the "mounting frame" that actually mounts to the truck. Don't know if that adequately explains it Dino, but I tried.
The three holes will adjust the angle of attack,and how the plow works.Use the lowest holes to scrape harder,and the upper holes to roll snow easier.It's amazing how much of a difference it can make.The upper holes will usually help you stack better as well as the plow can raise further.Every truck and plow is different,and you have to experiment to find what works best.Don't forget the truck will also raise up when you get in the gas hard wjich also affects the angle..The shorter the wheelbase,and the more power you have,the more it will be affected.
From the Fisher installation manual: "When the plow is lifted with the cylinder, A-frame should hit head gear before lift cylinder is fully extended (10")Adjust chain in driver's side if needed to accomplish the above and tighten U-bolt." This aint no Meyer; those pins are *not* going to break.
Just left my Fisher Dealer and asked about those three holes that BRL mentioned in his thread. Dealer says the hole your plow is set up in should leave the a-frame level when the plow is on the ground. To raise or lower the angle of attack out of level will make the plow more susceptible to damage. Just passing on the knowledge. CMerLand
slplow, let us know what you find out from the factory. I was a little curious about the same thing. I would like to see ours stack a little higher, too.
