fisher /boss


2000 Club Member
Ok during the past week I have had the opportunity to install some edges on differnt brand plows, and wanted to pass on some observations.
First the boss v plow. Very rugged, and very fast hydros. It takes about 2 sec to move each fully in or out. I was very impressed. I still like the western/ fisher controller better, but I like the hydro quickness of the boss.
Again still not a fan of the full trip on a v plow, but I was curious to the design on the huge center pillar.
Seems that with the combination of the truck mount and that ceneter pillar, only about 1.5" of wear was posible on the cutting edge, before it would start riding on the center pillar. Once it started riding on that pillar, it would rock left and right, and front to back, rendering the plow useless. I also hear that center pillar is $$$ to replace. I was just wondering if it was common, or more a function of this truck and mounting height.
On to the fisher.
As many here know I have always regarded fisher as a HD plow for the light truck market, but here is what happens when manufacturers guidlines are not followed.
Fisher recommends that their trip edge base angle be worn 2" before adding a wear bar. And want no bigger than a 6" wear bar used. Well I looked at 20 fisher plows on wed, and all of them were twisted and bent, beyond anything I have ever seen in a fisher. All plows were no more than 3 yrs old. Seems the company didnt like the idea of wearing that base angle in, so they went and purchased 8" edges 3/4" thick. AT first this didnt phase me, but on my 2hr ride home, while fuming over the deplorable shop conditions that I had to work in. Well anyway this is my take on the matter,IMO the edge was designed and engineered for 6" of leverage, when you add 2 more " to it, you raise the leverage angles exponentially. Causing major plow and a frame damage. Add to the mix, that they seem to have cowboys operating, and you have a recipy for disaster. My ulimate point being, that if you abuse anything it will fail on you.

DaveO Veteran


Your on the $$ with your observations. I looked at the Boss V also and was VERY impressed. The hydro's/mount/ruggedness were it's best assets in my opinion. That thing was FAST compared to my belt driven Fisher. Would love to have one.

About the Fisher cutting edges. That has been an ongoing debate between myself and a couple of other plow owners around here. Many around here run the 8" edges, and most(almost all), have cracked/damaged the blade. I also believe the additional "leverage" causing more damage and stress on the blade. Most of the guys who run the 8" edge are city contracted, and wear the 6" too fast. Couple of the more savy guys run two 6" edges together, to reduce wear rate, but not chance the leverage concern.


thelawnguy Addict
Central CT
Originally posted by plowking35
Fisher recommends that their trip edge base angle be worn 2" before adding a wear bar. And want no bigger than a 6" wear bar used

Out of the box, Fisher lower edge is 6 inches. If you put the recommended 6 inch edge on top of that, you get very poor scraping since there now is a large surface area floating over the snow. I put an edge on my Fisher when I first bought it new, and removed it after the first storm, then re-installed it when the trip edge wore sufficiently. Once again, poor scraping when the replaceable edge wore down flush with the trip edge.

I agree, an 8 inch edge, especially if you catch a corner with it, will cause serious damage. Also consider that a Fisher, unlike other makes, does not use hinge pins, or bolts as its weak link; it uses the A-frame which must be replaced if it gets tweaked, which according to the mfr is how its designed, to save the truck frame and the blade itself (and it will given hard enough usage). The A-frame on my 8-footer is slightly tweaked, so it now angles more in one direction than another, (happened last year while trying to extract myself from a loading dock), but not enough to worry about. Maybe Ill change it out this summer.

Another quirk with Fisher, they use undersize pins to attach the a-frame to the headgear riser, so it will float side to side with quite a bit of play (better cleaning on uneven surfaces) but it also makes a racket over bumpy roads due to the slop.

For those complaining about the fast wear of cutting edges, my guess is they are using a mild steel edge (aftermarket), if you pay the extra $25 for a high-carbon Fisher edge the wear will decrease twofold. The Fisher edge I bought from the dealer was $80 compared to $55 at the steel supplier, but its a "blued" color (like a gun barrel) unlike the "rust" color I see on lesser quality edges.

Since I got the urethane edge it appears edge wear concerns are now a moot point (for me).
Hi Dino -- what version on the Boss did you view?? We have the RT III versions, and I believe the wear allowance is greater than 1.5 inches. The RT II versions were a little lower.

I do like the outfits, and ours are equipped with the smart locks and optional touchpad controller. The touchpad is so sensitive, we sometimes "scare" ourselves when we adjust the plow close to buildings and cars. The hydraulics are much faster than the Monarch system we were using with the Arctics.

I don't doubt Western/Fisher make good plows, but our excellent dealer support makes the Boss a natural choice here in my market. I agree too with our leverage findings. I have seen people bolt on a grader/dozer edge with the result, in one case, that the turn circle and a-frame snapped off.


Senior Member
I have the older style RT II and have nothing bad to say about it. The only problems I have had with it were easy to fix. The new boss RT III has a lot more edge wear then the RT II. With a 6 inch edge I only had less then an inch of wear before I was worried about my center pivot point. I put on 8 inch cutting edges and I gave me close to 3 Inches of wear. I am on my second 8 inch edge now and have had no trouble with damage to plow or center pivot welds with the extra 2 inches on the cutting edge(knock on wood). I took advice from previous thread and welded a extra piece of metal to each cutting edgein the center and it worked good to eliminate strip of snow when plowing with blade straight. I still want to get the new version some day.

slplow Veteran
For straight blades I prefer the boss because of the deeper curve and smoother tripping of the blade. For a v, Fisher all the way! My reasoning, is because I do believe the trip edge is the best way to go for a V Plow. I did like Fisher's straight plows until they put a more shallow curve in it in the early 80s. And Fisher plows are very dependable, but do not push in deep snow as good as a plow with a deep curve. Maybe Fisher will some day put a curve back into the striaght blades. Then I will go back to buying them.


Senior Member
Deere John said:
I looked under my RT III Boss today, and there is no problem with clearance to the centre pin. The corner "smiles" will wear into the mouldboard before the centre becomes an issue.
I DONO? about You Guys? I Allways Go get the Cutting Torch! & Taper the Edges of my Cutting Edges!--6 inches from the Ends & Taper UP aprox 1/2 inch!--& Weld a Few Beads of Stainless in those Areas!--Result? my Plow Don*t Tear every Thing UP!--as I have Noticed! New Cutting Edges that are NOT Modifyed! as Stated Above!--Leave Scars on Hot Top Drives & Really Do a JOB On Brick Driveways!--a PLOW is Like your BOOTS! Do a much Better JOB when their Broken IN!--MERRY XMAS! --Ole JIM--

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