I had an EZV this happened to, I don’t remember the repair exactly but I’m pretty sure I took a 2”x2”x.25” piece of steel plate and punched a 1” hole in the middle. Then I welded that over the hole that had been wallowed out. Worked just fine. I’ll check the plow a little later and see exactly how I did that
Not sure if this helps. I did this to my diamond plow a few years ago. The link on plowsite does not contain the pics since the upgrade. Anyway I have 7 vids on this fix. Here is vid 2. First vid has a lot of fluff. Again, hard to tell from your post which holes are egg shapped. This is how I did it. YMMV.
Ok we got the pump mounted and the pulley lined up, note the square piece to use a ratchet to tighten the belt. I also made a mount for the valve. Also the pulley on this pump is a little smaller I had laying around. However it did not have a keyway in it. I broached it for a keyway and we were...
I knew a guy years ago that when he got a new plow he drilled out the holes and installed some type of sleeve and when that wore out he replaced the sleeve. Not sure what holes he drilled, size or type of material he used.
I would like to find some sort of sleeve that could be welded in that is a harder material than the pin is so the pin would wear vs the a frame hole/sleeve. I had a friend weld the holes tighter with a 7018 rod. He said there is a dif rod that is a harder material that they use for hard facing excavator buckets.
As soon as you weld on these short bushings much of the hardness goes out the window. McMaster does sell hardened bushings but they are for press fit. Not enough meat for these to be pressed in for what you are doing. They are not cheap. This is why most people who perform re-bushing jobs, make their own out of 1045 or other tool steel on a lathe.