F250 Oil Pan

CT18fireman

Banned
Location
Western CT
Doing an oil pan replacement on a 95 F250 4x4. Anyone ever done one? What a pain so far. The big crossmember is in the way. Already had to remove intake. Disconnect hoses and lines, Disconnect motor mounts, lift motor. Loosened pan bolts. Now I have to drop the pickup from inside the pan according to the book. Any hints would be helpful.
 

fordhipo

Junior Member
Location
S.E., Michigan
I've done more of these then I want to remember. Sounds like you are doing everything in the right order so far. If you haven't pulled the pan out yet what we used to do is take a sawsall and cut the pan in half and pull it out in two pieces (watching out for the oil pump pick up tube laying in oil pan). It seems the replacement pan was just a little shorter and fits in better then the old one comes out. Start the two bolts and nut before tighting any thing up. Good luck
Ken
 

GeoffD

PlowSite.com Veteran
Had one done the other day, I sent it to the dealer.

For less thank 1 K i got a new rear main seal, and oil pan. I am not going to mess with that. The job is rated at 6.8 hours for the pan, and 6.3 for the seal. It is just one long crappy job.

Geoff
 
OP
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CT18fireman

Banned
Location
Western CT
Really? I got the replacement from an aout parts store. Is it a little smaller or a different shape? I was thinking about cuting it to get it past the front main cap. Looks like this will hang me up tomorrow. Just was thinking I still got to get the new one in.

So taking the intake plenum off is the key to raising the motor up? Tried to get past it without doing that.

Oh well.
 

GeoffD

PlowSite.com Veteran
The motor must be jacked up, and the trans removed from the motor, so that you are able to jack the engine high enough. I have heard in some cases you must remove the motor from the truck. My best advice is bite the bullet and let the dealer do it.

If it isn't the exact same size and shape, you might have the wrong pan.

Geoff
 

fordhipo

Junior Member
Location
S.E., Michigan
The front cap was the real tight spot on the old pan that's why I cut them out. The new pan is the same shape just seemed a little shorter by maybe an 1/8 inch, was just enough to clear the front cap.
The upper intake plenum was strange some we had to remove some we could lift high enough to clear with it on.
Ken
 
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CT18fireman

Banned
Location
Western CT
According to my book and the dealer serviceman I know the Motor does not have to come out. Instead by removing the manifold you can get enough lift. I guess I will find out tomorrow.

351 Motor and 5 spd by the way
 

fordhipo

Junior Member
Location
S.E., Michigan
Dino: we had some come in that were rotted out in 3 years. The 300-6 were the worst.
GeoffD: we were able to do them with the trans still in , just a real tight fit and a knukle buster.
Ken
 
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CT18fireman

Banned
Location
Western CT
That is my concern. I know I could get it out if I pull hard enough;) or cut. I just want to be able to get the thing back in.

On another note. Dealer wanted 150 for on, Junkyard 75, Parts Store New 55. Seemed kinda funny to me
 
Last edited:

thelawnguy

PlowSite.com Addict
Location
Central CT
Heh, when that cheapie pan is rotted thru in a year and your at it again we shall see what the "real" bargain is...

Doesnt ford paint these things? Tho every blue oval Ive encountered leaks enough from the front seal that the pan should never rust.
 

plowking35

2000 Club Member
Location
SE CT
Instead of Quality is Job 1
it should read Part sales are job 1
That problem right there is enough for me never to want a ford. Yet you guys keep going back over and over ......
I guess some people never learn.
Dino
 
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CT18fireman

Banned
Location
Western CT
Just finished! It was actually fairly easy. Once the manifold came off the engine went up enough that the pan fell right out. New on in and everything works fine. He should get another 150,000 now.
 
guess what im another one of those fools dino,lmao got rid of my 95 f150 with the rotted oil pan @ 63,000 miles:mad: wasnt real happy with ford, but yes i went back and bought my 2nd ford...was a die hard chevy guy for years....big earnhardt fan...(R.I.P. BUDDY)...just hoping that problems gone with this 01`anyone with a newer f-150 have bad news to share id love to here it?ive heard something about the power window motors actually cracking the doors anyone else have this problem?guess if this one dont hold up its back to bowties.....just wish theyd put some ground clearance back under those chevies....of course on another note my dads 01 chevy has been no stranger to the wrecker:D ....maybe it goes back to that never buy a vehicle that was made on monday or friday:confused: theory?



rich
 

speedracer241

Senior Member
Location
winterset iowa
the newer f-150's i have worked on tend to crack the doorskin at the back edge of the door glass. starts out as a pretty small crack but can get larger and cause rust in that spot. fords remedy was to replace the doors with the exact same style door, no reinforcement on anything in that area. we replaced lots of those under warranty. was told their theory (fords) was to get them out of warranty and then it was the customers problem. not working for a ford dealer now so i dont know of too many problems.

well good luck with your new truck
Mark K
 
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CT18fireman

Banned
Location
Western CT
That is the valve cover. I have done a few of these.

250-350 and up uses leaf springs
150 everyone I have ever seen uses Coils. Unless the new 150s are different

Chevy uses Torsion bars
Toyota did as well until 95
I think Torsion Bar suspensions are great unless one is trying to support a diesel and a plow.
 
no springs on my 01 f-150 just fyi not sure when they changed to the torision bars?holding a 5.4 with a plow well i guess time will tell it`ll be allright for the little to no abuse im going to give it these things cost too much to abuse....:eek:
 

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