1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

f250 mono front spring help, well need springs.

Discussion in 'Ford Trucks' started by Dr Who, Apr 15, 2011.

  1. Dr Who

    Dr Who Senior Member
    Messages: 637

    Well I went to have my truck (avatar picture) aligned the other day and they could not aligned it, well they did not want to.

    They said my front springs were arched wrong, or basically wore out do to the plow. I put the plow on the truck last fall, it had 4 bad ball joints when I bought it (switched them before the plow) and I assume the springs were bad then. The truck wares the inside of the tire funny as well as having lazy tires, they like to lay to the inside.

    So far I have not had any luck finding springs for my truck, its a 97 250 HD, the old body style. Has the Dana 50 twin I beam, Monobeam or scissor front end depends on who you are to what you call it..

    So, I thought about just leaving the main leaf, switching out the rest of the pack, but got thinking that my mains may be twisted. I bought the truck used, I think it may have came from up north (not to far) and was used to haul a goose neck, it may have had a plow on it before, but I did not see any signs of it..

    anyway, what are my options here? No I can not buy another truck as I am low on cash thanks to people not paying me for the snow this past winter (another story). No I do not want a GM or Dodge LOL..

    input please, or if you have the springs how much and how much shipping to 40503 (Kentucky)
  2. drp

    drp Senior Member
    from ontario
    Messages: 170

    Spring shop, I had them add an extra leaf to the front of a 97 350 4x4 for a couple of hundred a few years ago.
  3. Dr Who

    Dr Who Senior Member
    Messages: 637

    I thought about adding a leaf, but I was not sure if it would make that much difference.

    We have a spring shop here, and they re-arch springs, but there labor is so high I could probuble buy 3 sets of tires before I could pay there lablor,excluding the parts.
  4. tjctransport

    tjctransport PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,390

    ask for springs for a 96 F250 diesel with plow prep package.
    a lot of places do not list 97 as a valid year for for dTrucks.
  5. Dr Who

    Dr Who Senior Member
    Messages: 637

    LOL my truck is not a valid truck!

    I have had to do this with other parts, some times it works, sometimes it does not..
  6. grizbait

    grizbait Junior Member
    Messages: 18

    I have exactly the same truck with the same issues. I have the gas engine (351) and the original springs (rated 2750 lbs/side) were just fine before plowing (now toast).

    I opted to get the 3500 lb spring packs to replace the worn out leaf springs in the front. I just picked them up - haven't installed them yet. I believe these are the standard rate for the diesel version of our truck.

    I hope to install them this week, I'll attempt to post back when the job is done, with results...
  7. linckeil

    linckeil PlowSite.com Addict
    from CT
    Messages: 1,272

    quick correction - the dana 50 axle you have is not considered a monobeam. a mono (one) beam is a solid front axle like dana 60's under the same era F350's.

    your axle is known as a TTB (twin traction beam), which is a form of IFS (independent front suspension)

    i would opt for air bags. this way you can adjust the front end to support whatever load you are carrying. going with firmer springs on a dana 50 TTB may carry the plow just fine, but when the plow is off, the front end may sit up higher causing alignment problems which equates to uneven tire wear.

    none of these issues exist with a solid front axle (monobeam), but is a concern given the design of the TTB.
  8. oldmankent

    oldmankent PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,322

    IMO there is no cheap fix for your issue. Also, Ford never offered a plow prep package for the F250 diesel trucks. What I did to my truck fixed the issues I had with the Dana 50 TTB. Cost me about $1500 at the spring shop. 2.5" axle drop bracket, new bushings, F350 positive arch springs in the front. No problem aligning it and good clearance between the bump stop on the axle and frame even with the Timbrens on the truck. The next best option is a Dana 60 axle. Lots of people add a leaf but I don't think that helps the ride at all.
  9. Dr Who

    Dr Who Senior Member
    Messages: 637

    As for the Mono Beam, That is what I thought, Mono means 1 but I had some guy here locally argue with me that it was called that. So in short I just added that to the post just in case.
    I always just called it twin I beam, like the old Fords, but everyone knows it as something different..

    i am not so much worried about the ride, its a 250HD not a Caddy, even though I rode in a new(ish) Toy-yo-doe Martix the other day, it rode worse then my truck loaded with the plow & 500lbs of salt LOL...

    I hate to get into replacing the springs, I thought about just changing out the pack, leave the main. BUt I am afraid that it may be twisted. I am going to take it to a friends shop to get his opinion on what is wrong and the best/cheapest way to repair.

    I was quoted 500. labor, plus parts to switch out the springs, so I think it was also about 1500 total, not a route that I will take, truck just to old for that kind of money.

    I thought about the overload springs just to try to bring it up, I do not want to over do it and have the tires still wear out. That defeats the purpose of fixing the truck.
    I never thought about the Timberlands, but are they not expensive?
    One thing I thought about with the stiffer springs, would that not put more pressure on that Dana 50? cause it to break, I mean the springs on it now (when good) still took the pressure and "bounced" or spread the pressure out were as the stiffer one would then put a little more pressure on the center of the spring Rather then spreading the wealth with the whole spring.
    Or am I over thinking this?
  10. oldmankent

    oldmankent PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,322

    There are two springs in the front packs. It is cheaper to replace the whole pack then just one of the springs. One of the problems with the F250 and diesel is that there is no clearance between the bump stop on the frame and the axle to begin with. With the added weight of the plow you are going to hit the bump stop and are hitting the bump stop alot. Probably even without the plow on. The only fix is to get more clearance between the stop and axle. The stock springs are stiff enough, they just don't give you any clearance. Adding a leaf may help for a little while, but it will eventually sag and the ride will be awful in the mean time. I haven't read about anyone liking rearched springs. They just sag back too quick.
  11. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    Another thought. Did you try another alighment place? My F-250, I put new ball joints, tie rods,sleeves and had it real close to correct alighment.All they had to do was set the toe! They told me they could not do it becuase they couild not set the camber. But, for $250 they could fix the problem! Yeah right! You want $250 to install 2 camber bolts.
  12. Dr Who

    Dr Who Senior Member
    Messages: 637

    Not yet, I have not had time to take it any were, only problem is the place I took it to is the only one that I trust, I used to deal with them alot when I owned a repair shop as well as the body shop. The rest of the alinement shops are these box stores and I had alot of problems with them in the past, I may however take it to the firestone by the house as they have been there for 50 years and I know people that have had things done there with out problems..

    I did not replace the camber bolts, I was assuming the alinment was correct, just the ball joints wore out. My canter is dead on they told me, so its the camber is off, or the springs shot which I have my doubts about...
  13. Dr Who

    Dr Who Senior Member
    Messages: 637

    My truck has gas :)
    I was just told I needed the diesel springs as there heavier???

    I to was told that the rearching would not last long..

    Truck rides like a hay wagon now, not worried about that, I just do not want it to eat my tires if I drive it a lot....

    I think I may check into the Timberlands, but I bet they cost more then the ol truck is worth...
  14. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    The bushings on the spring eyes could be toast. Check the spring mounts. There was a post on here about rust proofed trucks. The spring mounts rust out under the coating. I went out and took a screw driver to mine ( 89 F-250HD ). Well they were rusted out! Thin as hell ! Your truck should have camber adjusters on the upper ball joint mount. Most shops really don't like playing with them. If the toe in is good, it would have to be the camber setting or an axle mount problem. If you have any pull or tenancy to go off center something is out, bent or has slop.
  15. Dr Who

    Dr Who Senior Member
    Messages: 637

    The front spring hangers have been replaced, there shiny black! Was done before I got the truck, I am familiar with the sping problem, both rear were broke in two when I bough the truck, which I got $1000 cheaper due to it. 75.00 in dorman brand parts, 100 labor and off I went!!

    I need to check the bushings in the springs, I have been going to but its rained for the last 2 weeks. As for the camber bolts, well.... The shop tole me there no big deal, just 45.00 each labor plus the parts. The place is a tire and front end shop, been around for about 60 years, surely they know tricks to getting them out...
    But I am going to have a second opinion, just not had the time to get it to anyone..

    It has to be something like the camber out or the spring bushings bad, I would believe that more then the springs are wore out. But I did haul about a half ton of metal shelving the other day, the front tires were straight up and down....
    Maybe I should just load it down with rock till the tires sit the correct way, I sure know it wouldn't hurt the fuel mileage anymore then it already it...:)
  16. B7200

    B7200 Junior Member
    Messages: 4

    Not that I don't believe your spring shop, but check the axle before you start throwing money at this front end. I have a 97 F250 that had the Dana 50 front axle. After plowing driveways for 10 years, on arm on the axle cracked and bent and caused the same tire wear problem that you have. Before you spend a lot of money on fixing the Dana 50, look into a Dana 60 replacement. All in all its not a bad project, it took about a day all together and it fixed all of my front end problems. With stock F250 springs, the truck doesn't squat with the plow on anymore.

    Good luck. Let me know if you need help finding parts, I have a pretty good source here in central Mass.
  17. Dr Who

    Dr Who Senior Member
    Messages: 637

    Mine is so bad it does it with the plow off, I do leave my pump and bracket on I welded the tubes up. Thing was to hard to take in and out on the last plow truck.

    I am with you on the answer the shop gave me, but I did put a jack uner the plow mount and took some the the weight off the front, the tires stood right up. But then again I assume it would do that anyway.

    I was the one that put the plow on, this past fall, so I would think that there should be nothing broken, but I have not been up under it to look.

    I would be all for swaping out to a Dana 60, but I do not have a place to do it, I have no garage, have to borrow torches. really really hate to get into cutting out the front, dealing with hoking it all back up, and the problems with finding a good 60 with the same gear ratio. Not to mention the 60's around here cost 4-500 bucks used due to all the rock climbers around.

    I think I am going to just put some air bags under it if I can not find a cheaper way out, like making my own overloads etc.

    But I will have to check to see if something is broke, but the truck was like that when i got it, just worse as all 4 ball joints were shot...

    were should I look for a broken/crack?
  18. B7200

    B7200 Junior Member
    Messages: 4

    Look directly under the springs. On the underside of the axle arm. The crack was only on the bottom and it tended to bend straight again when I took the weight off of if. 500 bucks for a Dana 60 isn't bad, especially if its complete and it works. By the time you rebuild the front end and re weld the broken arm, you'll probably spend more than that.
  19. oldmankent

    oldmankent PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,322

    Yeah. $500 for a Dana 60 is good. I think the axle tends to break or crack just beside the pumpkin on the drivers side. Can you post any pics of your truck?
  20. Dr Who

    Dr Who Senior Member
    Messages: 637

    500.00 would be good if were not for being laid off since dec. I do not work in the winter anyway, but since spring there has been no work..

    I am owed some crazy money from a couple companies from this past snow season, they refuse to pay, answer my calls and refuse the letters/notices that I send them. I do not make much at all pushing snow as I did not have many accounts, and would you know it that the largest one that I had is one that owes me the most...

    Besides If I bought a used diff. I would have to rebuild it, replace the ball joints, the tie rods on the truck etc. As I would not want to put things back together that are old because everything I have ever done and not replaced the parts, breaks when I need it the most :)

    Its the truck in the Avatar, not sure how to post more, but can if you like.