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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We have a Diamond MDII with the old rectangle rubber electrical connector. Its been temperamental when we connect it and take some finagling to get all lights and plow opp to work.

I really like the new trailer styles round connector and have thought about upgrading ours.

Does anyone know if new connectors will work with the E60 pump? We have the short truck side lead (wire into cab is not one piece with the connector).

Also I don't suppose the touch pad end is the same as the new pistol grips.
 

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I'm not sure if Meyer ever offered the round style plow side for the older single coil wired power units,I don't recall ever seeing one,with that said if you were to swap the truck and plow side over I believe you would just have to clip the two wire plugs off and run the apropriate wire to each of your coils and possibly make a jumper wire from the motor ground stud to the units base so the coils will have a ground.
The touchpad end is different,there may be adapters availible but I'm not sure but again a bit of splicing would solve that problem too.
 

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Clean with brake clean both sides and use qtips..air blower etc. Then use dialectric grease and put back together.
 

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Using too much Dielectric grease greatly increases thermal resistance. This occurres because compression pressure was not enough to force excess grease out of the area between the pin and the socket. When the layer was thinned to a light "wipe" of grease, thermal resistance fell off significantly.

On that note it may be wise to try and spread out the pins a little bit or try to compress your socket so a good connection can be made

Dielectric grease is fine when applied to the plastic plug or around the edge of the plug to stop moisture from intrusion. but you shouldn’t be filling the sockets withdielectric grease,

Yes we all know that’s how it came from the manufacture over packed with Greece .

Like getting a brand new gun and its full of packing / / Assembly grease sometimes you should just clean the weapon before you use it...
 

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Using too much Dielectric grease greatly increases thermal resistance. This occurres because compression pressure was not enough to force excess grease out of the area between the pin and the socket. When the layer was thinned to a light "wipe" of grease, thermal resistance fell off significantly.

On that note it may be wise to try and spread out the pins a little bit or try to compress your socket so a good connection can be made

Dielectric grease is fine when applied to the plastic plug or around the edge of the plug to stop moisture from intrusion. but you shouldn't be filling the sockets withdielectric grease,

Yes we all know that's how it came from the manufacture over packed with Greece .

Like getting a brand new gun and its full of packing / / Assembly grease sometimes you should just clean the weapon before you use it...
Any recommendations on what fluid to use when he's done?
 

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Never had an issue with mine after cleaning. My plow is 10 plus years old but I take care of my stuff religiously.
 

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Any recommendations on what fluid to use when he's done?
Liquid.
I heard a nasty rumor that if you don't use the manufacturers fluid they're going to void your warranty..... so by all means....
Open your wallet and pay whatever they ask .

You do know that these plow manufactures do not blend or refine any of the fluids they sell.

Hold onto your dealership hat. they (the plow mug) buy The same fluids you can buy. They buy the 55 gallon drum and they repackage it.

Or should we buy the manufactures fluid by the 5 gallon pail ?

so when I'm a hr away from the nearest dealer is closed at at two am in the morning and I blow a hyd hose
Or
Use the fluid that has the similar cold pour point that is also a hydraulic fluid that I can get at the local gas station?

Never had an issue with mine after cleaning. My plow is 10 plus years old but I take care of my stuff religiously.
Neither have I .
 

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@crewn

Do you go to your car or truck dealership to buy all of your motor oil ,transmission oil and all of your other fluids that are branded with the manufacturer’s name or do you go someplace else to get a comparable fluid/oil?
 

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For the record...

The last storm we had that my plow broke on, I went to my grandpas to get my backup (it was in one of his out buildings). After hooking up the plow, I realized I didn't have any fluid in the rams. Said screw it and used some of his ATF.

The pump froze within 2 hours of use. Had to heat the pump, drain the fluid, clean the cylinders and the filters, and refilled with Meyer fluid. No issues afterwards. Temps were single digits.

Now I'm not saying it absolutely was the ATF, but it was enough of a PITA that I will use plow fluid from here on out. Just not worth the risk to save a few extra bucks. Not sure about the SAM plow fluid, but it has a lower freeze rate than ATF
 

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;)

I agree ,,,,
As soon as it gets below 32°F all of the transmissions that use atf And everything else just stops working,

Even synthetic ATF??

It gets a lot colder here and I can’t remember the last time it was Cold enough to freeze ATF...

If it’s frozen in your transmission doesn’t really matter if the plow works or not does it
 

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;)

I agree ,,,,
As soon as it gets below 32°F all of the transmissions that use atf And everything else just stops working,

Even synthetic ATF??

It gets a lot colder here and I can't remember the last time it was Cold enough to freeze ATF...

If it's frozen in your transmission doesn't really matter if the plow works or not does it
I will give you the fact that I did not use synthetic.

When I originally started to drain the fluid (before putting the heater on it) it was significantly thicker than when I filled it up and after I heated it up, but no it didn't have ice chunks showing it was actually frozen. I'm assuming it was the real thick consistency that slow the pump way down.

I also didn't do any scientific tests on the thing either, so I can't say without a doubt it was infact the ATF. The fact that it stopped working, and then worked again after I changed the fluid led me to believe it was the ATF that caused the pump issue.
 

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We have a Diamond MDII with the old rectangle rubber electrical connector. Its been temperamental when we connect it and take some finagling to get all lights and plow opp to work.

I really like the new trailer styles round connector and have thought about upgrading ours.

Does anyone know if new connectors will work with the E60 pump? We have the short truck side lead (wire into cab is not one piece with the connector).

Also I don't suppose the touch pad end is the same as the new pistol grips.
To get this train back on the tracks...

I would think that as long as they have the same number of pins (or more) it should work.

As far as touch pad having the same connector as the pistol grips, no it does not. The new pistol grips come with an adapter though, and everything just plugs into each other.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Wow, Thanks for all the input.


When it warms up I plan on giving both ends a good cleaning (in the 15 years we have had this thing I don't think I have ever really done that).

What do you recommend to put in after is all cleaned up to prevent corrosion? I get 2 schools of though on dielectric.
 

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Use it, but don't overdo it.

Personally, I LOAD it with dielectric for the off season, and then clean it real good before winter. Then just use enough to keep water out and prevent corrosion. Not sure how hydro gets way without using it. I forgot it add in on the spreader connectors for one storm and half my pins turned green with corrosion.
 
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