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E-60 Troubleshooting

Discussion in 'Meyer / Diamond Products Discussion' started by SnowMatt13, Apr 12, 2009.

  1. SnowMatt13

    SnowMatt13 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,559

    Well, this is my first experience with a Meyer plow/system. The set-up is on an 89 Chevy pickup. The hydraulic unit is an E-60 with the touch pad. I'm guessing the set-up is approximately 12-15 years old. It has barely been used it's entire life. It has the origional cutting edge on the blade, shoes still have black paint on them. This truck/plow was used to plow 1 driveway that was about 200 feet long it's entire life. I got such a good deal, I decided to buy the truck and plow. Wife is not too thrilled about my new project......
    Anyway, here's where I'm at...truck had a bad battery, installed a new battery and tested alt. so the power end is good. When I turn the touch pad on the red overload light lights up. I decided to check the manual I printed off Meyer's site with not much luck. I figured to start will all the grounds and test to see if there was even power at the motor. Well, I ended up snapping the bolt with the ground wire trying to tighten it....and that is where I ended tonight. I am taking the unit to work as I have much better tools to work on it there.
    Once I get the unit fixed, inspected and serviced anyone have an idea where I can/should start when I get it back on the truck??:waving:
  2. Kenyou

    Kenyou Senior Member
    Messages: 375

    I have much the same truck and plow. From the wealth of information that I got from reading Plowsite, the first thing that I did was to disconnect every connection and expecially the ground wires and clean them real real good. Then apply some dialectic grease on all the fittings and put them back together. The grounds are a cause of a lot of problems most of the time. You also should take the Solonoid off and clean the contact area on it and the truck. You should also clean the pivot pins on the plow and grease them with water proof grease if possible. If the plow can't flop over when you hit something hard, something on the plow or truck will break. If those pins are frozen and won't move, it may take an act of Congress to get them off and replace them with greaseable ones.

    Then in your spare time you can take all the nuts off the springs and clean and Anti Sieze them and the eye bolts in case you have to replace a spring or adjust it. Also the angle rams bolts could be cleaned and lubed It's much easier to work on this stuff now than wait until it gets real cold and your in a hurry and everything is rusted on.

    Don't forget to do the same to the a-frame pivot bolt. Very important!

    Of course every year, you should drain and flush your Hydraulic system and fill with Meyer oil. They have an after market blue plow oil that is a lot cheaper. If you ever have tiny leaks in the Hydraulics, just remember that if oil can get out, water and get in and make you come to a screeching halt.
    I don't know much about the brand of plows as this Meyer is the only one I've had.

    I hope this helps you out.
  3. SnowMatt13

    SnowMatt13 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,559

    Thanks for the response.
    Like I said, this is my first Meyer.
    1st thing I did was print of the manual off the website.....
    Then started the tear-down of the hydraulic unit.
    Motor terminals under the cap were corroded bad, shaft was frozen in the motor.
    Got a new double post motor....
    Took the rest apart for a look-over and for educational purposes....
    All the seals and everything looked good. Wiper on the cap was brittle and cracked when I tried to take it off along with the top seal being rusted in....
    Waiting on the major seal kit to rebuild.....
    The fluid was terrible but everything cleaned up real nice.....
    Once I get it over-hauled and hook it back up I hope it works....if not my eye is on the motor seloniod. It looks good, but looks can be decieving. And for under $11 I can replace it so I may just do that too.....
  4. Kenyou

    Kenyou Senior Member
    Messages: 375

    Sounds like you have your work cut out for you. Of course if you can do all things that you have just done, you shouldn't have much to worry about. Besides, now is the time to do it and be ready for next winter.

    Good luck!
  5. SnowMatt13

    SnowMatt13 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,559

    Here's the update....
    Got the seal kit, replaced all seals

    Hooked back up to truck.

    Red light on "overload" still on

    Maybe a problem with touchpad itself??
  6. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Two things Matt....

    Did you verify that the ground wire for the TP has a good connection both at its end and at the multi pin connector under the dash?

    When you added the two terminal motor did you also run a ground from the neg post on the motor to the sump base or valve block in order to supply good ground for the valve coils?

    A problem with either of those will give you an instant red light.
  7. SnowMatt13

    SnowMatt13 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,559

    No Mike, I haven't. not enough time yet....maybe tonight.
    Where does the ground wire for the control on these systems end up?

    Also, the ground for the motor is run exactally as you stated.
  8. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Ok your pump ground should be fine then.

    The ground lead for the TP harness will be either white or blue and should be grounded directly to the neg battery post, or on one of the mounting bolts on the underhood solenoid. Make sure both that wire AND the underhood solenoid have excellent ground as the TP's need a perfect ground in order to work correctly.

    Does it kick the overload light on as soon as you power the TP on?
  9. SnowMatt13

    SnowMatt13 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,559

    new solenoid installed yesterday....

    light does come on as soon as you turn touch pad on.
    I'm sure I have this right but when I installed the new motor looking down the positive went on the "top" and negative to "bottom"..... i hope that's right
  10. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    If it's going into overload as soon as you toggle the controller on, either you have a poor connection in the control harness (such as a ground like I mentioned) or the harness is shorted out. You can ohm check each wire in the harness for shorts and connection issues.
  11. SnowMatt13

    SnowMatt13 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,559

    That will be my next step when it comes back from being painted.....
    I think that the controller is bad.

    I do have a single lever toggle switch controller, can that be wired to this unit?
    I don't think it has the same amount of wires.....
  12. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    You can use the single lever toggle with your pump but it's not plug & play with your current touch pad harness, but you can do one of two things....

    Either purchase the control harness for the single lever and swap it in place of your touch pad harness. New harness's run around $50.

    Or, cut the touch pad plug off the existing harness and build your own harness from there to the single lever. It's simple to do if you have the diagrams and costs next to nothing.

    The single lever control will be much much more reliable thats for sure.
  13. SnowMatt13

    SnowMatt13 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,559

    I think that I will use the harness from the touchpad, I just need to find a wiring diagram for the touchpad....
    I think the touch pad has a few different colors than the slick stick.....
  14. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    I can help you out there too Matt. In fact I'm sure if you dig around here in the Meyer forum you'll find both the TP harness diagram as well as the pinout on the rear of the SlikStik as I've posted them a few time for guys in your same situation. If you can't locate them let me know...
  15. SnowMatt13

    SnowMatt13 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,559

    I did some hunting last night and it looks fairly easy to wire....
    According to the diagrams I found you do not use the orange wire from the touchpad.
    The rest match up, except for the blue for the touchpad, I'm stuck for the moment on that.....
  16. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    The blue wire is your 12V power wire Matt, you'll need to reuse it to power the Slikstik. Will go on the center pin labeled "black wire w/ fuse". But you are correct you will no longer need the orange ground wire. You'll also need to jumper the white pump solenoid activation wire between the 3 pins for that function on the Slikstik but I'm sure your aware of that.

    Rear veiw of the Stikstik is in this thread if you didn't locate it already: Diagram
  17. SnowMatt13

    SnowMatt13 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,559

    Thanks for the diagram, I printed it out. Just haven't had time to do it yet, most likely this weekend.
    Yep, that's what I figured for the white....
    I'll let you know if it works....
  18. SnowMatt13

    SnowMatt13 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,559

    Wired it last night and it worked......
    Picks up nice and fast, still need to pressure test it....
    Now I have to flush the angle rams and hook it up to make sure it all works....
    Thanks for your help Mike (and the diagrams)
  19. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Good to hear its up and running Matt. :waving:

    Now you can put those TP unreliability issues behind you. I did...about one season after they were first introduced. :D You wont have the smooth stop angle features of the TP but you will have reliability. And thats much more important than luxuries.