1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

Dual Optima Yellows

Discussion in 'Commercial Snow Removal' started by ROYALT91, Dec 3, 2004.

  1. ROYALT91

    ROYALT91 Member
    Messages: 57

    I just installed the dual yellows i used welding 2 gauge wire for all my connections, i built my own tray which came out really nice. I dont really seem to see a difference with dual batteries my light still actually dim when i hit the plow switch i dont know why. Im wondering if it has anything to do that i have my plow switch into my fuse box to get power i prob shou just go to battery. but it shouldnt matter because its only supplying 12 v to switch.

    dual battery.jpg
  2. eng50

    eng50 Senior Member
    Messages: 125

    Just something to think about...If the plow is wired through the fuse box, there are not many, if any, wires/circuits that go through the box that are the proper guage! You are probably creating quite an amp draw through there and thats whats dimming lights. Go direct to the batteries, and put a 30 amp breaker or so in line and it should be fine. Looks like your audio amp is hooked direct!!

    Good luck,

  3. maintenanceman

    maintenanceman Member
    Messages: 32

    Not knowing how you have your plow wired in, you could try the following way of wiring. change your ground wires. I wouldn't wire the grounds together between the two batteries. I would run the ground to the engine off the battery that connects to the starter, and then run the ground off the other battery to the frame close to the plow motor. I would leave the positives hooked together like you have. By connecting the negatives together like you have, just creates a larger capacity battery, which will react like one battery. ie. lights dim when you activate the plow. Seperate grounding points on the batteries should eliminate some of the dimming light problem as the battery that has a closer grounding should provide most of the current to the plow as the ground to the engine will have a higher resistance to the plow as it has to travel through the engine, body and finally to the plow. also, both batteries will still charge off the alternator even with two seperate mounting points.
  4. TLS

    TLS PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,425

    Aren't the Optima Yellow Tops a deep cycle battery?
  5. ROYALT91

    ROYALT91 Member
    Messages: 57


    The plow is wired directly to the batteries but the switch that basiclly acts as a trigger is wired to the fuse box. thats how meyer direction said to wire. but im going to try to change the wiring.
  6. Big Nate's Plowing

    Big Nate's Plowing PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,266

    the yellow tops are a deep-cycle battery and are designed to put out 20-40 amps for hours at a time not 500 amp current spikes for plow pumps

    if you are worried about the lights dimming for a nano-second then just install a 4 farad capacitor like I did now they dont flicker when you hit the pump, another plus is that the cap I have for my amp also helps with the current flow because it is close to the battery.

    for those that do not know: a capacitor is basically a high amperage/short capacity battery, mine are capable of 300 amps for approx 3/10th's of a second
  7. Bldrs83

    Bldrs83 Member
    Messages: 96

    I think the lights dimming is just something everyone has to just accept. Does anyone know how many amps the motor on a plow pump pulls? Has anyone ever tried installing 2 batteries AND 2 alternators? The plow would have its own alternator and battery that isn't electrically connected to the truck in any way. Would there be any problems exciting the second alternator or would it charge the plow battery just like normal?
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2004
  8. PremierLand

    PremierLand PlowSite.com Addict
    from detroit
    Messages: 1,572

    what about if your lights dim just when simply putting the windows up!!!!!!!

    now thats tic's me off!
  9. Big Nate's Plowing

    Big Nate's Plowing PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,266

    the Meyer pumps draw about 450 amps for about ½ a second then they are in the 180-230 amp range

    Monarch units are in the 220-250 range depending on the load and fenner units are in the 180-230 range as well
  10. osbo68

    osbo68 Member
    Messages: 49

    The battery Diagram as Maintman discribed it is correct.
    Your wiring for the plow should be like this: switch gets it's power from the fuse box. Then it goe's out to your solanoids on your plow and 1 wire to a relay on your fender over by the battery . The relay is what allows all that current to go to your plow motor. The cable goes from your plowmotor to the solaniod then a short one from the other side to the battery +. Have a cable connecting both positive's. A - cable to the frame and the other to the engine.
    Even with 2 batterys your system will drain some but not as bad as 1. Your stock alternator is only rated somewhere between 65-85 amps. With all of your systems running and your plowmotor in a run position. You are drawing anywhere from 150 to 200 amps. Your alternator can not keep up with the draw and therefore your batterys will pick up the slack. Make sure all of your large cables are clean. No rust, paint or dirt.
    Your lights will still dim some but you will double your run time. And be sure to start raising your plow before the banks and do all of your plow angles while backing up. Your RPM's will be up and your chargeing system has to work less and thus will last longer
    For better performance upgrade to a High Output alternator. We run them in all of our trks.
  11. 04superduty

    04superduty PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,354

    big nate how much does one of those 4 fared capicitors run?
  12. ROYALT91

    ROYALT91 Member
    Messages: 57


    i have a powermaster alternator 175 amps its not only lights that dim its the heater unit. I was just expecting a little difference after spending all that $$ for dual optimas. i know i will see some dim becasue its drawing so much but i thought it should help a little. Now my buddy is running dual yellows on his blazer he has no dim or major draw like i seem to.
  13. TLS

    TLS PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,425

    Shouldn't you be running Red Top's?

    I though Yellow Tops are for boats, and campers.
  14. festerw

    festerw Senior Member
    Messages: 986

    Red Tops are Starting
    Yellow Tops are combination Starting/Deep Cycle
    Blue Tops are Deep Cycle Marine

    I have a Yellow Top in my truck, when my other battery died I contacted Optima and asked them which battery they recommended Yellow Top was the answer.
  15. Big Nate's Plowing

    Big Nate's Plowing PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,266

    back about 4-5 years ago when I bought it the capacitor was $350 now days you can pick up a 5 farad cap for $125 or so and it will solve all of the dimming issues

    just make sure that it is atleast a 16V capacitor otherwise it wont work correctly
  16. maintenanceman

    maintenanceman Member
    Messages: 32

    I have this exact system on my 85 gmc. I have no problems with the second alternator. The alternator doesn't charge when i first start the vehicle, but once the rpm's come up over 1500, it kicks on and charges just like the stock alternator. I added a second volt meter gage to keep track of the battery state. This eliminated the lights from dimming completely. I did this change because the 85 gmc alternators only go up to 85 amps or so and you cann't get bigger alternators to work as the belt tends to slip when under load. Plus i had the battery go dead twice last winter when I was plowing as the stock alternator couldn't keep up.