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Dual Battery

Discussion in 'Commercial Snow Removal' started by glenspot, Nov 26, 2004.

  1. glenspot

    glenspot Senior Member
    Messages: 255

    I know people have debated this in other threads....but I'm sorta techno-stupid. Hopefully you will bear with me.

    I want to do a dual battery setup.

    Lets assume that I am starting with 2 BRAND new IDENTICAL batteries, and that I have a place to mount them BOTH. I am going to use heavy gauge cable and clean, heavy duty mounting clamps. I don't wish to use an isolator, or pricey "kit". Is it as simple as hooking them up as follows:


    THanks guys. (First plow-able snowfall of the season was today. 10" forecast by Sunday.)

  2. andersonbldrs

    andersonbldrs Member
    Messages: 34

    that works fine. Thats what I run in all my plow trucks.
  3. jpunlimited

    jpunlimited Senior Member
    Messages: 132

    perco switch

    put a perco swith in the positive side to allow you to select the second bat and take it off line. they are cheap $$.(it comes with a nice diagram) without an isolator kit I think you will shortent the life of the regulator and altinator. I have used a two bat system with a voltage inverter. when you first start up the electrical system works very hard to charge two batteries. you can here it. with the perco you can select which batt to charge, and both when you need the kick. this system saved my butt because I always had the second batt to start when the inverter drained one dead.
  4. ZamboniHDB

    ZamboniHDB Senior Member
    Messages: 338

    glenspot -

    You don't have to run the negative cables in a series. You can go straight to the chassis on each of them. It will save you a few bucks in cable costs. Unless of course, the two batteries are side by side then to each his own!

    Just my .02¢
  5. Tarkus

    Tarkus PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,113

    You have the idea but I would ground each battery seperately to engine block for redundancy and better performance because return current will be on two paths instead of one.
  6. Plowtoy

    Plowtoy Senior Member
    Messages: 929

    I agree, except that they should be connected to the drivetrain (engine or Transmission) so that most of your electrical components such as your engine computer don't have to search for a ground in case something has happened to the ground cable from the engine to the frame
  7. Tarkus

    Tarkus PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,113

    Actually you bring up another point, a battery is grounded to enigne and body too and usually seperately as well (depending on brand as to how they do it). You should also include another battery to body strap for second battery as well as heavy one to engine block
  8. streetsurfin'

    streetsurfin' Senior Member
    Messages: 770

    Right on. The ground straps provided between bed and cab, cab and eng., or cab and frame can corrode, break from ice hanging on them etc., so the double ground is a safety valve.
  9. ZamboniHDB

    ZamboniHDB Senior Member
    Messages: 338

    Plowtoy -

    I meant what you said. Thanks for the clarification! I don't recall any negative battery cable grounded to anything other than the engine block when you have the battery located in the engine compartment.

  10. Tarkus

    Tarkus PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,113

    GM vehicals used to run a ground wire form battery to body (a small one) and then a big one to engine)
  11. ZamboniHDB

    ZamboniHDB Senior Member
    Messages: 338

    Tarkus -

    I don't mean to get off the subject, but how old of GM vehicles are you talking about? I once had a 1983 Malibu that grounded to the engine and of course a braided ground strap to the body.

  12. Tarkus

    Tarkus PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,113

    My 90 suburban has one to frame and a smaller one to body and I believe my 99 OBS chevy does too when I put a second battery in it when it was new. .
  13. itchyfishnv

    itchyfishnv Member
    Messages: 45

    v=i r (voltage = current x resistance) in a parallel circuit (like the diagram you have) voltage stays the same (in a series circuit voltage increases and current stays the same) . Your current will increas therefore giving you more juice, if they are deep cycle batteries your alternator will charge it like a regular battery and will not be rushing to charge a dead battery because its a deep cycle its made to take large current drops.
  14. fernalddude

    fernalddude PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,106

    itchyfishnv yep u know your math :waving: kidding i run the duel batt set up also but with a twist. I run a lot of equipment at one time and have the deep cycle batts. All the equipment has breakers and i plug them in at nite to recharge and top off batts also heaters to keep the cab warm so i dont have to cleen off any frost or snow. :drinkup:
  15. ROYALT91

    ROYALT91 Member
    Messages: 57

    Dual Batteries The Only Way To Go

    Im putting dual optima yellows, and im planning on running them in series, eveyone seems to have different views on wiring. In one sense it is nice to wire them with a switch to run them when you need them, however why not run them at all times you know your geting full charge out of your system. I run a meyer st-78 plow in winter, and a 9000XDI warn winch so i will definetly need the battery power. From what i hear it is a signigfigant difference with dual batteries. i will let you know very soon how it works.

    I Built my own dual battery tray save the $100 bucks

    dual optimas.jpg
  16. fernalddude

    fernalddude PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,106

    nice pic so you got room to place them under hood good job on bracket :salute:
  17. Tarkus

    Tarkus PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,113

    What you also also gain from dual batteries is reserve power and better voltage stabilty under load. Maxium possible current flow is limited by conductor resistance too and with dual ground cable you decrease return circuit resistance and increase availble power as well. Finaly, deep cycle batteries are not the best choice for plow duty becuase although then can withstand more deep discharge cycels, they also product far less peak current too and are best with light to moderate loads (under 50 amp draw per battery with under 20 the best)
  18. 04superduty

    04superduty PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,354

    Royalt91 if you run your batteries in series you will have a 24 volt system. not sure if your vehicle will like that.
  19. Tarkus

    Tarkus PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,113

    Not unless he change electrical system. I do think that 12 v systems are coming to their end though and we may see a jump to 24 or 48 volt in the next 5 years or so.
  20. ZamboniHDB

    ZamboniHDB Senior Member
    Messages: 338

    04superduty -

    I was only referring to hooking the negative cables in a series hopefully Royalt91 didn't misunderstand me . Glenspot's diagram is a parallel circuit which would produce 12 volts.

    If the first battery had the negative cable go to ground and the positive cable went to the negative side of the second battery and the positive of the second battery went to the electrical component, that would create a series circuit which is 24 volts.

    Last edited: Nov 27, 2004