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Dual Battery Install Instructions for a Chevy

streetfrog

Senior Member
Location
New Hampshire
Please make this a Sticky Forum Mod..:rolleyes:

This is compliments of B&B.
Here is a complete install instructions for all of you trying to hook up dual batteries. Good Luck.....

The battery tray is a easy to add, you just use the factory aux battery tray from GM and it will bolt into the stock location just like GM intented.. The tray is mounted on the pass side inner fender between the coolant tank and the firewall. You will need to remove the upper curved fender brace between the fender and the firewall to provide the clearance for the battery but it won't affect the structural integrity of the fender. Depending on the physical size of the battery you going to mount in the tray, you may need to trim the tab off the firewall where the fender brace was mounted that you just removed. A quick zip with an air saw or even tin snips will remove it easily. Use a file and a little touch up paint on the cut edge to dress it up a bit.

The part numbers you need to get from the dealer are:
Support: 15705102
Screw: 11509853
Clamp: 356668



The easiest way to wire duel batteries to the 99-up Silverados is to use batteries that have top and side terminals both. By having top and side terminals both, you can just leave your stock cables the way they are and use the top posts for all your additional connections. I like to use a set of top post terminals like these here: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...y+Terminal.htm I just provided the link so you'd know what to look for since you can buy them at a local store like NAPA or AutoZone or most any stereo shop. I also like the fact that these terminals are gold plated so they last a lot longer as far as corrosion goes.These style terminals make this a super easy job because if you look closely at the pic, they have ports in them that you just strip the insulation off the cable and insert it into the port in the terminal.They have an Allen set screw in them to tighten the cable. That way you don't need to crimp any cables. I do recommend adding a little solder to the stripped end of the cable though so the Allen screw doesn't crush the cable and will add additional contact surface. Just buy enough cable to reach from one battery to the other how ever you want to route them around the engine compartment and simply connect the positive on one battery to the positive of the other battery terminal. Do the same thing on the negative side too.

Three other things that I would recommend doing at this time:

1) Upgrade the charging wire on the back of the alternator to a 4 gage cable as this is a weak link on the GM trucks. Leave the stock one in place but add a second one from the charging stud (where the original wire is on the alternator) directly to the positive on either battery (driver side would be closer).

2) Add an extra ground cable from the aux battery to the frame, and one from the frame to the engine.

For these 3 cables you can just buy a replacement universal battery cable with an eye on one end. Then you can just cut the other end off (doesn't even matter what kind of end is on this side as your cutting it off anyway) and insert it into your gold plated terminal.

Make sure both the power and ground cables for the plow are connected directly to a battery. Do not connect them to the factory pos junction block near the power steering pump or connect the ground anywhere but the battery. This will allow a clean voltage path directly from the batteries to the plow where it's need the most.

That's why these gold plated "port" style battery terminals are so handy, since they're easy to add extra cables to and they still look clean and neat with good conductivity.

You want to use 2 gage cable for all these wiring upgrades (except the new alternator wire, use 4 gage like mentioned)

Adding the duel batteries connected directly togethter and upgrading the stock charging wire and ground cables will allow the system to operate at peak efficiency and allow the alternator to provide all the amperage it can to keep the batteries charged.wesport
 

ABES

PlowSite.com Addict
Location
MN
good post i think it should be a sticky as well. i dont understand why there arent very many stickys on this site. i keep seeing the same questions asked over and over again.
 

B&B

PlowSite Fanatic
ABES;495380 said:
good post i think it should be a sticky as well. i dont understand why there arent very many stickies on this site. i keep seeing the same questions asked over and over again.
Excellent point ABES....I find myself typing the same answers over and over again (in pm's too). That's why we decided on the sticky.

Might do a T-bar sticky also. :nod:
 
OP
streetfrog

streetfrog

Senior Member
Location
New Hampshire
B&B gave me a bad link:mad::dizzy::rolleyes: LOL actually don't know if it worked before as I didn't try it. my bad. Anyway B&B put up a pic from the working link sooo.. And it is a Sticky. After you post you need to pm the Mods' I asked Michael. to sticky it and he did...
 
OP
streetfrog

streetfrog

Senior Member
Location
New Hampshire
LOL You missed me na na na:redbounce I never tried it before I posted it. like I said my bad. I need to take some pics of my equip and make a couple of posts. Like for the prowings on where you need to reinforce so it doesn't bend. I found out 20 min after install the hard way lol. Damn yellow drive thru poles:rolleyes:
 

saabman

Member
Location
Maine
Here are a couple of pics of my dual battery install in a OBS K1500. The braided cables are audio quality (high current) 4 ga. Specs on them compare favorably with run of the mill 2 ga (not all cables are created equal). You can also see the mounting for the Fisher Isolation module. I know others use top/side post batteries, but my install is done with just side posts (the primary battery does have a multi adapter on it)



The shot shows the routing of the cables across the radiator shroud to the primary battery.

 

Josh Steere

Junior Member
Location
iowa
I have a 2004 2500 chevy and i have a qestion.

What kind of air cleaner are you running when you put the battery on the passenger side!
 

Indy

Senior Member
>>>I did the same install and it works great, one suggestion is mark your cables that cross the radiator, you can get red and black plastic loom covering @ autozone for $4. and it will keep you safe if you use it to jump or just working on it. IMHO...........looks great
 

B&B

PlowSite Fanatic
Josh Steere;523211 said:
I have a 2004 2500 chevy and i have a qestion.

What kind of air cleaner are you running when you put the battery on the passenger side!
The stock one. Its is a little tight but the 99-newer Silverado trucks could be had with the duel batts as a factory option (on a gas engine) so the provision is there for it, just a bit tight.
 

Josh Steere

Junior Member
Location
iowa
Ok i have another question? Dose the battery on the passenger side fit back by the firewall or right up against the raidator support!

If its by the radiator support i have no room for stock filter housing.

Dose any one have a pic of the dual battery for the passenger side on a 2004 or so 2500 chevy.
 

B&B

PlowSite Fanatic
Here's a pic Josh of where you can see the aux battery location on the '99 newer Silverado's. You can see it mounts back near the firewall.

dualbatts (Small).jpg
 

saabman

Member
Location
Maine
>>>I did the same install and it works great, one suggestion is mark your cables that cross the radiator, you can get red and black plastic loom covering @ autozone for $4. and it will keep you safe if you use it to jump or just working on it. IMHO...........looks great
Subsequent to taking the pictures I used colored electrician tape to mark hot and ground leads. I like the idea of the loom covering, I will check that out.
 
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