1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

Ditchin' the straight blade

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by FLC2004, Apr 16, 2011.

  1. FLC2004

    FLC2004 Senior Member
    Messages: 201

    I'm about to go from a straightblade proplus on my old pickup to a wide-out on a new CC F-350. I considered a mvp V but seems more practical for the wide-out with our bigger lots. I still have a straight blade 9' proplus on my 550, so I can still make use of my wings. Anyone experiencing issues on the newer model wideouts as far as hydraulic or anything else before I go out and buy one? Also any input on a 10' heavyweight on a newer F-750 would be appreciated so I don't have to start a new thread. Thanks
  2. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,353

    The wide-outs are certainly more trouble than a straight blade. They have six valves rather than three and many more things to go wrong in general. Make sure when you buy one that the bolt coming out very near the rear angle ram fitting has the head of the bolt on the inside and not the nut or it will damage your hose / fitting. The passenger side fitting at the rear of the angle ram tends to come loose and then when you push up a pile the hose will get cut or the fitting bent or broken if the nut end is there as it sticks out too far.

    Also be aware that there is a little brass hexagon shaped check valve in two of the holes below the elbow on the valve body for wing extension on both sides. If you remove these hoses & elbows that thing can fall out and be lost. They are a type of check valve that restricts the flow of oil one way and not the other to slow wing extension. Also note that if you mix up the extension and retraction hoses it can do damage because these little valves are not doing their jobs. The plow is supposed to come with stickers on the hoses near the blade to warn you not to mix time up but often times the builders don't put them on.
    One thing I don't like about the wide out is the fact that the wing cutting edges are poly so they wear fast and round off. Of course if you change them you should change the main cutting edge too so it gets expensive.
    Another point to know is that the wide-out is a multiplex communication system which is more complicated that the regular one. It's nice that there are only two cables to hook up but when things go wrong it is impossible to diagnose yourself. Mulitiplex is a system that sends multiple signals down a single wire. Kind of like a radio transmitter on one end and a receiver / decoder on the other. There are two extra communication wires in the main power plug that take care of all the control functions. If you loose communication between the controller and plow a light on the controller will flash.
    One other issue I have seen frequently on the new wide-out and MVP-plus (same basic design valve body) is that they often develop a leak at the plug for the pressure test port on the driver's side of the valve body behind the rear most valve cartridge. Easy to fix but a pain in the axx when you don't know about it, all it needs is a new o-ring and an Allen key to correct.

    Regarding the Heavyweight on the F-750 I have little to complain about. It's a straight blade so there is very little to go wrong and the 750 is certainly heavy enough to handle it. Maybe consider central hydraulics? That would eliminate the pump and motor on the plow reducing things that can go wrong. This is especially cool if you have some other hydraulic function on the truck already. I have an F-550 I use for a service truck in the summer and then take off the HIAB crane in winter and install a sander & plow. I have central hydraulics on the truck which runs my crane and sander. This is real nice because I don't have to carry a gas can and I don't have to worry about the little sander engine starting. If my diesel starts I know the sander will go too. In my case the front end is NOT set up for central hydraulics because I fix plows so I am set up to pick up and test any ultra-mount and very few people run central on the small trucks I service so I am set up for electrical. I have three joysticks and five cables in my grill so I can hook up to MVP, MVP-+, wide-out, and straight blades. If you have a dump bed or something in the back of your 750 you may be able to install a changeover valve to switch between the dump and the plow. Just pay attention to the pressures that these two devices need. I have seen people try to tie together incompatible devices. Some scissor hoists need very high pressures that are too much for the plows.

    Hope that helps.