Diff btw RT2, RT3, Smarthitch??

[VnDrWLawnCare]

I have read through many pages of Boss threads trying to find the answer, and cant seem to find anything...

Can someone explain to me all of these different things listed above?
I take it the smarthitch is like a western ultramount, and how it mounts to the truck. Just unsure what the RT2 and RT3 are, and how do you tell the difference. Would like to purchase one, but want to know what i am looking at.

Thanks for your help
Eric

 

[troy28282]

RT2 and RT3 stand for the mounting style for the BOSS Plows. RT2 was the earliest version where the headgear(lights and pump) came off the truck at the same time with the plow. It was a bugger to put the blade on because there was no smart hitch. This version stopped being produced about 8 years ago.

RT3 is the new style. Most of the blades that are sold today have smart hitch installed. This is where you can push a button once the truck is lined up with the plow and the head gear will power it self up and attach it self.

The difference that can be seen between the 2 are the undercarriages. RT3 has what are noticeable hooks that look like Cs that the blade mounts to.
Thats the best I can describe it for you.

 

[RBRONKEMA GHTFD]

Hi Eric the Boss RT2 mount is like the western ultramount. When mounting the Boss RT2 plow you need the headlight tower up to hook the plow up to the truck. Just like the western ultramount, the headlights need to be up to hook up to the truck. The RT3 mount is different. It is somewhat like the western unimount. The light tower needs to be down to hook up to the truck. It is by far the fastest, and easiest way to hook a plow up to a truck. I owned a 7'6'' Boss RT2 straight blade for 2 years and I thought the way it mounted was a pain in the A$$!. The RT3 mount is so much nicer. If you go to www.bossplows.com you can accually watch a video on the way the new style RT3 plows mount to the trucks. Hope this helps. I can get pics of my RT3 mount and the undercarriage on my truck if you like. Just let me know.

Ryan

 

[VnDrWLawnCare]

Thanks guys for the quick response. That helps to understand it better. So clearly the RT3 is the way to go.

Ryan, if you would go ahead and post those pictures for me when you get a minute. Thanks

Also as i understand it, the wiring harness for boss is universal, i will just have to buy a different headlamp adaptor if buying used??

What type of system does boss use compared to western with it isolation module?

Thanks for your help
Eric

 

[RBRONKEMA GHTFD]

Hey Eric I will post some pics in the morning when I am done plowing. As for the headlight module I would have no clue what they use. If you are looking into getting a new plow boss plows are the way to go. I have owned 3 and I have had nothing but good things to say about them. I LOVE MY BOSS PLOW!

Ryan

 

[RBRONKEMA GHTFD]

Eric here are the pics of my plow mount. Truck side and plow side. Sorry it took so long to get them posted. Hope these help.

Ryan

 

[WRIGHTTRAILERS]

Also as i understand it, the wiring harness for boss is universal, i will just have to buy a different headlamp adaptor if buying used??

What type of system does boss use compared to western with it isolation module?

Thanks for your help
Eric

The harness is universal, in that all vehicle applications and all the plows use the same one whether is a straight blade or v-plow. Only the control changes. Different head light systems will use different headlamp adapters, as you say.

There is no equivalient of the fisher/western isolation module on the Boss. Everything is handled through relays or switches. The main down side is that the headlamps do not automatically switch over on the Boss; you need to use a separate switch. There is also, strictly speaking, more individual parts involved that could potentially cause problems. The up side is that everything is servicable and testable cheaply and easily. I think that most Boss owners would happily flip that switch in exchange for possibly someday needing to replace an $8 switch or $10 relay, rather than replacing the notorious $250 non-serviceable isolation module.

 

[Theo Epstein]

The module is only $87.00, not $250. And because it is sealed in a weather tight package, they almost never require replacement.