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Diamond/Meyer angle rams

Discussion in 'Commercial Snow Removal' started by theholycow, Nov 11, 2003.

  1. theholycow

    theholycow PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,180

    First, my setup: Diamond plow with Meyer E-47 and touchpad control on 1997 F350 duallie 12' stake body.

    Question 1: http://www.snowplowing-contractors.com/snowplows.html implies that I should be able to angle the plow manually with one or two men by connecting the angle ram hoses to eachother and standing the plow on the moldboard. However, the force required far exceeded one or two men putting their weight into the push frame. I had to remove the fittings from the angle hoses and lever it with a 12' 2x8 stuck into the push frame. Is this normal? How can I make it easier?

    Question 2: How can I determine if there's enough hydraulic fluid in the angle rams without following the fluid change procedure described in the above link? Does oil in the pump's main reservoir (with the bolt plug in the top of the lift cylinder) also get into the angle rams, and does air get filtered out (I don't think any got in, anyway) if I hook it up and angle back and forth a few times?

    After doing all that work with the 2x8 and such for the purpose of changing the fluid and replacing fittings, I failed to sufficiently tighten the hose to the left-side angle ram, and it squirted an unknown quantity of fluid past the threads when I tested it. Now my lawn has a random spattering of fluid and I think I'm okay to use the plow -- but I'm not sure if I need to do anything other than top off the fluid at the filler hole in the top of the lift cylinder.

    Rick Onanian
  2. theholycow

    theholycow PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,180

    Oops, reading around a bit, I find that the filler plug is actually supposed to be vented. I replaced it with a plain bolt in the middle of a storm last season. Did I read correctly, that I should have some sort of a vent valve instead of a bolt there?
  3. theholycow

    theholycow PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,180

    What, nobody has anything to say? :( Are you all asleep? :sleeping:

    Somebody could at least say "Read the damn FAQ! It's in section xx.xx under the heading blah blah blah blah." :confused:

    I really want to know why it's so hard to manually angle, or if there's a more approprate way to empty those cylinders. :help:

  4. vector6

    vector6 Senior Member
    Messages: 150

    it shouldnt be that hard.. at least mine isnt to do that procedure..

    myself and my 14yr old son can place my meyer on the moldboard and w/ the cylinders connected move the a-frame back and forth.. now mind you its not easy... getting it to FIRST move is the hard part.

    all your really doing this way is pushing the fluid from one cylinder to the other.
    the restriction comes from the fittings and connectors.

    this spring i bought new cylinders, hoses and connectors for my meyer, and once we get it to move back and forth (the a-frame) it moves ok, still alot of resistance but it moves.

    you may consider replacing your connectors and or hoses if your cylinders are ok.
    if the cylinder shafts are pitted, mabey replace the cylinders as well.

    I bought all my stuff from Ebay, all new stuff at a very good price.. but that was this back in the spring.

    hope this helps some,

    CARDOCTOR PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,312

    sometimes they stick

    ive had mine get stuck angle in one postion

    usually after siting all summer

    i use a tree for some leverage

    i angle l-r
    up -down

    leave the swith in down mode

    push the pump piston all the way down

    recheck fluid

    you need the buy a vent screw to relieve excess pressure
    also be careful using aftermarket fitting
    ive heard of guys have problems with them----john
  6. theholycow

    theholycow PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,180

    Thanks for the replies!

    I just bought the appropriate vented screw for the filler hole.

    Anyway, I thought it was stuck, but even after we moved it (with a 12 foot 2x8 jammed into the A frame for leverage), it didn't get any easier. I even had the couplers removed and just the open end of the hoses in oil.

    However, today, I found that if I mount it to the truck and lift it, I can push it back and forth alone (assuming the hoses are connected to eachother and not to the pump).

    Part of the maintenance I did (which caused me to ask this question) was all new connectors (kept the old hoses, though). The old couplers were really tough to connect. It's much better now.

    The angle cylinders probably are pitted (for that matter, the lift too); but I must keep the cost down. Even with good snow last year, we didn't make much money at all, and I don't make the spending decisions. Assuming the same snow this year, I'm absolutely sure we will make better money.

    Thanks, vector6 and cardoctor!
  7. theholycow

    theholycow PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,180

    Oh, and for future reference (for anybody searching this in the archive), here's the short answers to my questions:

    1. Manually angling the plow is easy if you mount it and lift it, then hook the two angle cylinders to eachother and push the moldboard (rather than putting the moldboard face-down and trying to move the A-frame). Other than that, follow the procedure in http://www.snowplowing-contractors.com/snowplows.html or whatever procedure you like.

    2. Yes, hook it up and let the pump fill it by angling back and forth a few times. If necessary, press the left/right buttons while pushing the moldboard (by hand or by driving forward with a telephone pole pushing back) a few times until the cylinders fill with oil. Then remember to top off the pump.

    3. Yes, you must have the proper pressure relief valve in the filler hole rather than a plain bolt. It appears to be Meyer part number 08473 "Kit - Pres. Rel. Vlv. w/Red Bush", which supposedly applies to all Meyer pumps.

    Finally, be sure to apply never-seize or at least some ballsy waterproof grease to the threads of EVERYTHING that you screw together, and if you have hitch-locks where in place of pins, cover them lest the key holes fill with salt and corrosion, making it impossible to ever remove them (lots of WD-40, a paper clip to scrape the key hole inside, and a hammer).