1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

Dana 44 axles??

Discussion in 'Ford Trucks' started by HALH VT, Dec 23, 2008.

  1. HALH VT

    HALH VT Senior Member
    from Vermont
    Messages: 128

    I just puked the u-joint out of another axle on my '79 F150 tonight. I have one more axle in a parts truck, and then I will have to either park the truck or bite the bullet and buy an axle.

    I have looked at some off-road sites, and found some aftermarket axles that claim to be much stronger then OEM. Most of them are made from an alloy steel and have improved retaining rings for the u-joint caps. The idea of full circle retaining rings for the u-joint caps seems really good, as the usual method of failure involves the caps coming out of the yoke, and the ears tearing off before you are smart enough to stop.

    Does anyone have any personal experience with these axles, good or bad, and which ones were they?
  2. shovelracer

    shovelracer Senior Member
    Messages: 525

    Most are pretty good. Some have a 10 year warranty. Poly Performance worked good for a few guys in my old 4x4 club. Your problem isnt the axles though right. You need a real beefy U joint. CTM makes nice ones $$$. You are looking at about a grand for a set of axles and U's, but if you maintain them you probably wont break one. But if you do then you will tear up an alloy shaft all the same.
  3. cocco78

    cocco78 Senior Member
    Messages: 158

    What kind of u-joints are you buying first?? Get a good quality Spicer joint, you'll have to probably order them as places like NAPA and Advanced Auto only carry cheaper brands. I run a 79 F-250 D44 under my jeep with 37" tires and spicer joints with no problems so far, all on stock shafts. Also what alot of off roaders do is place a little tack weld on the cap to the ear of the axle shaft, keeps you from spitting caps out if you don't have the full circle clips.
  4. HALH VT

    HALH VT Senior Member
    from Vermont
    Messages: 128

    I think my problems have a combination of causes. U-joint quality is probably #1.

    The second is that after a joint has blown the yokes are never quite right, even if they are not destroyed. I seems like it takes forever to assemble one and get the clips to go on properly, and I question whether the two caps are ever actually in line with each other.

    These last two joints were both put in the same day, back in June of this year. The caps were tack-welded, as you suggest. I hauled hay wagons with the truck all summer, but a lot of that was in 2wd on the road, although the hubs were not turned out, because it needed 4lo to get out of the fields, and again around the barns. I hauled several loads of scrap metal, but that was all 2wd with the hubs unlocked. I plowed snow four times, 6-8 hours each time before the first joint gave up.Then I plowed about another 15 hours before the second one puked.

    The truck has a 7.5 Fisher conventional, with a home built rear plow, and 400pounds of additional ballast behind the rear axle. I usually run chains on the rear. The front tires are new studded Cooper M+S, the rears are half worn. I had been wondering if there was enough size difference between the two to make trouble. It seems like when starting up, the chains always chew a little before everything bites and the truck starts mowing. On my Dodge, with a set of four matched tires and chains on the rear, this doesn't seem to happen.