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Cutting Edges...

Discussion in 'Commercial Snow Removal' started by mister_snowplow, Aug 19, 2005.

  1. mister_snowplow

    mister_snowplow Senior Member
    Messages: 173

    I'm getting my plow serviced this upcoming weekend. I'd like to get a cutting edge installed as well. How much do they typically run...$100? How long do they typically last...1 to 2 seasons? Thanks guys!

    Looking forward to this upcoming winter! :waving:
  2. NEHawaiian

    NEHawaiian Member
    from CT
    Messages: 40

    The length of time a cutting edge last depends on how musch you plow. Personally I like to keep a spare cutting edge in my garage just in case. The price of a cutting edge is determined by the cost of steel usually about $100 plus
  3. T-MAN

    T-MAN PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,363

    Steel has sky rocketed so I doubt you will find one under 135 plus the install , so your probally going to be close to 150. If I may suggest ( not sure if 3/8's is standard) go for at least 1/2 for your edge. They cost more but last longer. Dont forget to break her in before your first snow.
  4. Stan MI

    Stan MI Member
    Messages: 86


    What do you mean break it in. I have a new plow. Just curious

  5. T-MAN

    T-MAN PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,363

    Take her for a ride and drop your blade while your cruising around 30 or 40 on dry flat pavement. Sparks will be flying but it will cut the proper angle of attack so your bottom of your edge is not "square" anymore. 1/2" steel edges really chatter bad at speed (15mph and up) in the big lots. They wont scrap up hard pack very well either when there fresh.
  6. snoluvr

    snoluvr Senior Member
    from RI
    Messages: 266

    cutting edge

    When these edges are new, the right angle of the bottom and side of the edge will hit the ground..Like stated, grind this down, so the whole cutting edge contacts.I usually burn through two edges a season, but I am out for 30 hours per storm.
  7. mister_snowplow

    mister_snowplow Senior Member
    Messages: 173

    Thanks for the response.

    I'll look into getting the 1/2" cutting edge. Do cutting edges work well when you back-drag? Thanks
  8. cet

    cet PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,257

    All plows are different when back dragging. It depends on the angle of the mould board. Fishers don't back drag as well as others. The cutting edge doesn't hang well below the plow frame. If you had a lot of back dragging to do you might want to fabricate a back blade behind your cutting edge. If you do a search you will find pictures of some of these that people have made.
  9. cet

    cet PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,257

  10. justme-

    justme- 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,138

    If you're plowing residential you will get alot longer out of an edge- I get several seasons per edge. Also if this is a brand new plow Wear the blade in before adding the edge. A fisher needs to be worn in (residential at least a full season- parking lots probabily 1 storm) before adding the edge. If you add an edge to a brand new fisher it'ss wear like iron but scrape like crap the whole time. I added a 3/8 edge to my almost new fisher (less than 1/2 inch worn off the trip foot) and have been running it the same way for 5 seasons- same edge- less than 1/2 in wear since I installed the edge!! Fisher's have wear pads on the bottom of the trip edge about 3/4 inch-1 inch wide and about 6 inches long, adding the cutting edge before these are worn away creates a huge (relativly speaking) contact area making the blade wear like iron and float over alot of hard pack- doesn;t back drag as well either.

    Not sure about other plows- check with the dealer if you should wear it in first.
    Also- Fisher cutting edge has been under $100 here for 5 years+ I bought one last year (intending to change mine since it was scraping soo poorly only to find it hadn't worn out yet) for $89 self install from my local fisher dealer.

    Check around. Installing is easy.
  11. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    It's never going to back drag as well as it pushs. I have a heavy husky Meyer so, I have the weight to back drag well. My cutting edge costs about $90 at Millsupply.com the last time I bought one. It's lasted 2 seasons now. It's attached with grade 8 carriage bolts. It's just a matter of using the right size socket with a 1/2 breaker bar to take it off. Buy a new bolt kit if the bolts are really rusted / chewed bad, (to re-install the new one).
    Why guys pay $50-$75 dollars in labor + parts to have it done escapes me!
  12. pbeering

    pbeering Senior Member
    Messages: 266

    Don't forget the plastic cutting edges. They have a number of advantages over steel,(no damage, no noise, behave like squeegees in slop) including price these days.

    We have used edges from MPT for a number of years and love them. Superior's edge is on the Blizzard and we're happy with it too.

    You should break in any edge. We usually use a concrete loading dock or drive (no crown) and back up a few times.
  13. mister_snowplow

    mister_snowplow Senior Member
    Messages: 173

    I plow all residential as of now. I am getting my plow serviced this weekend and I am going to look into buying a cutting edge. I've heard some people say buy a 1/2" and some say a 3/8" is fine? If I am only plowing residential driveways what should I go with? Thanks again for the advice!
  14. mister_snowplow

    mister_snowplow Senior Member
    Messages: 173

    - pbeering

    We get a lot of heavy wet snow here in New England. What is MPT's website, I wonder if my fisher dealer sells them? Do they run the same price as a metal cutting edge? Thanks!
  15. pbeering

    pbeering Senior Member
    Messages: 266


    Call Vince and tell him I sent you. Prices are comparable. If you do residential, this is THE way to go. I have a bunch of clients with exposed aggregate, pavers, and even inlaid stone, never hurt any of it. We also buy fewer sprinkler heads......
  16. gino

    gino Member
    from Maine
    Messages: 94

    I bought mine up here in Miane at one of the more expensive places around. I only paid $70.00 for a 7.5' Fisher cutting edge. And, you can install this yourself with a total of 1 brain cell. Its just some nuts, washers, and bolts. Very simple.
  17. Pete7

    Pete7 Member
    Messages: 55

    New fisher ez-v

    I am getting a new fisher ez-v for my new f250. Do i need to break in the edge of this plow as described above, or is that only for aftermarket cutting edges?
  18. justme-

    justme- 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,138

    ALL cutting edges need to be broken in- they come with square edges and need to be ground down to the angle that scrapes the pavement.

    A new plow blade depends on the blade- Fisher is the only one I know for sure that should be worn in before attaching an edge- I believe the EZV is the same as the normal blade.

    Unless MPT has some fantastic deals Poly edges are about double the cost of steel- they reportedly wear twice as long, however they weigh twice as much because you NEED an old steel edge to clamp the poly to the moldboard. Too much weight for some of us.

    1/2 or 3/8 depends on your truck and attitude. I run 8inch x 1/2 on my Dump because I can but 6 inch by 1/2 on my Ram to keep the front axle weight down. figure out the math (I did last season) and the weight of the thicker one times the 3feet from the axle really adds up. Remember you're high school physics: force = mass X distance. Weight times the 3 or so feet from axle/frame to blade edge. Multiple the below weights by 3.

    Ok here it is:
    a 6 inch wide 3/8 edge weighs 7.53 Lbs/foot, or almost 61 lbs for 8 feet.
    a 6 inch 1/2 inch edge weighs 10.2lbs/foot, or 81lbs for 8 feet.
    an 8 inch 1/2 inch edge weighs 13.6 lbs/foot, or 109 lbs for 8 feet.
  19. HunterMt

    HunterMt Junior Member
    from PA
    Messages: 2

    Fisher cutting edges

    Fisher Engineering refuses to explain why their cutting edges extend only minimally below the rest of the blade. The 8.5' EZV I bought new last fall cost me dearly last year. The dealer explained that I should grind the blade down a certain distance before installing an edge. During the first or second storm, I was leaving behind way too much snow and slush, especially when in the scoop position. The bottom edge of the plow was bowed. As advised I then dropped this blade on a new, dry concrete highway and let the sparks fly (with the blade in various positions). Scraping performance during the next storm was still poor, so in desperation before the next storm I paid over $200 for a cutting edge(s). The edge barely extended below the blade, and soon the two components were wearing together. The scraping performance was naturally as poor as ever.

    (I also have an older Fisher straight blade which may have a similar shortcoming).

    I'm dying to resolve this problem before November. Anyone have similar experiences or some advice? Justme, I see you have some knowledge of the Fishers.
  20. justme-

    justme- 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,138

    Simple explanation- Fisher plows are designed to plow WITHOUT a cutting edge. Original blades had no holes for mounting cutting edges- you were supposed to plow the blade as it came and when the trip foot on the bottom wore through the spring mounts replace the trip edge. The outcry for durability encouraged Fisher to add the holes to allow addition of a cuttinge when the trip edge is worn- not on a new plow. If you look at the back of the trip foot you'll see a 1" square block at the sides- this is a wear bar- the trip edge needs to be worn so through that before the addition of a cutting edge for best performance.

    Fisher's ideas is that you don;t need to spend the extra $$ for an cutting edge for their plows where so many designs need one. If you plow commercially you'll probabily wear the trip edge down suffeciently in a season or 2 then can add a cutting edge. If you add it before wearing the trip edge down it will NEVER wear. ( I have 6 seasons on mine new trip edge with cutting edge and have worn less than 1/2 inch off plowing commercially)

    If you really don;t want to wait you can grind it down in the shop- but that's a waste of plowable steel. Redrilling the cutting edge mounting holes lower is also a technique that has been mentioned on this board. Going to try that for this season to see how the edge wears alone personally.