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Cutting Edge... Yes/No...

Discussion in 'Residential Snow Removal' started by Shortstuff, Dec 2, 2009.

  1. Shortstuff

    Shortstuff Member
    Messages: 94

    When I first got my new Fisher 8'HD back in July I posted a question whether or not I should get a new cutting edge to put on my blade and a majority of the replies I got were "no", that I should wear in the lower edge of my moldboard first - going without a cutting edge for the first year. I went with the general concensus... until today.

    I still haven't had an opportunity to use my new plow yet but I did decide to purchase and install a new 1/2"x6" Fisher cutting edge today.

    I noticed however, that the actual edge only sticks down about 3/8" to 1/2" below my original moldboard edge. I thought it would more than that, but that's it. I'm guessing that this is about normal/right? And yes, I know that it is made of hardened steel so it will last quite some time.

    I only plow for myself and a few relatives driveways so how long might I expect this new edge to last me?

    Thanks: Steve
  2. Gumpy52

    Gumpy52 Member
    Messages: 70

    You should get 4-6 years before you need to change cutting edges, plowing what you are doing. The bolt on cutting edge will should wear down to the back blade in 2 - 3 months and then you will have 1inch thick blade that will take forever to wear down before you need to replace the bolt on cutter edge.
  3. ProSeasons

    ProSeasons Senior Member
    Messages: 624

    At least 10 years.

    And who told you NOT to install a cutting edge? The moldboard should never touch the groud while plowing, only the steel or rubber or poly cutting edge.:dizzy:

    Some of the people on here giving advice.........:rolleyes:
  4. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    That's why we said you could wait......:D

    It will last a long long time. You'll probably never have to replace it.

    You have absolutely no idea what you are talking about. You should take your own advice.
  5. nhpatriot

    nhpatriot Senior Member
    Messages: 190

    Just weld that f$#ker on, it will last you forever...
  6. GPS

    GPS Senior Member
    from MA
    Messages: 268

    We're talking about a Fisher here, not a Western, Boss, etc. Totally different. The base angle is the cutting edge. When it wears down, a new cutting edge is bolted straight to the trip-edge/base angle.
  7. BSM Exhaust

    BSM Exhaust Member
    Messages: 88

    I bought a New Fisher HT (which was just stolen) and the dealer had installed the poly cutting edge, it was installed higher than the trip edge. The dealer told me to wear the trip edge down to the cutting edge which made no sense to me. I contacted Fisher and send them pictures of the problem but they could care less. I ended up redrilling the holes 1/2 lower than the factory holes. Ill have to do it a second time to the new plow when I get it.
  8. BSM Exhaust

    BSM Exhaust Member
    Messages: 88


  9. Shortstuff

    Shortstuff Member
    Messages: 94

    Interesting post BSM and thanks for the great pictures. It's hard to believe that a factory edge like that would not even mount so that it is down below the moldboard edge, amazing. I agree, what good is that? I would have done exactly what you have done and re-mounted it so that it is below the moldboard, but one question - what is the length of that cutting edge? Is it 5" or 6"??? My new metal edge measures 6".

    Also, for those who were wondering here is the original post I made asking about cutting edges back in July.

  10. BSM Exhaust

    BSM Exhaust Member
    Messages: 88

    Cutting edges are optional with Fisher's. My edge is 6" wide.
  11. ProSeasons

    ProSeasons Senior Member
    Messages: 624

    On a Fisher, that still ain't the moldboard. And if you have that option, why in the h$ll would you want it to touch the ground at all? I assumed he wanted to install a cutting edge to beat the snot out of that thing, and save his trip edge from the abuse?

    I also assumed Fisher trip edges were pretty cool, why beat the thing up?

    Silly me!:confused: But that still ain't the moldboard. He said moldboard and that threw me. Apologies.
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2009
  12. ProSeasons

    ProSeasons Senior Member
    Messages: 624


    Sorry that some a-hole stole your Fisher. I hope you see it driving around and get the guy.
  13. Shortstuff

    Shortstuff Member
    Messages: 94

    My mistake, I meant to say the trip-edge and not the moldboard.
  14. ProSeasons

    ProSeasons Senior Member
    Messages: 624

    No problem. I thought somebody said drive around and dig the body of your plow , the moldboard, into the ground.

    I was like :confused:
  15. TommyMac

    TommyMac Senior Member
    Messages: 530

    Didn't that there tell you something that you had to drill holes on a brand new plow that you were thinking wrong :dizzy:....The Fisher's are designed to were the trip edge a minimum 1.5"-2" than put on the cutting edge....Iv'e plowed city street's for a local town for over 1 full season before needing to put a edge on my 9' Fisher....Take that edge off you'll break sh*# because your screwing with the leverage of the trip edge
  16. Mick

    Mick PlowSite.com Veteran
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,546

    I've been plowing with Fisher plows for ten years and have never had to put a cutting edge on a new one. Had to get one for a used plow I got with a truck I bought, but it was seven years old and had seen plenty better days.

    On the other hand, don't let the trip edge wear into the spring shackles or you'll get to know what trouble really is.:cry:
  17. BSM Exhaust

    BSM Exhaust Member
    Messages: 88

    Tommy, Whats the point of a cutting edge or wear edge if its higher than the trip edge and why would I want to wear out the trip edge and then put the cutting edge on. Ive had Fisher plows in the past and the cutting edge is always lower than the trip edge. There are no leverage issues when your talking about 1/2 drop. The trip edge is fine to plow with but us guys with brick paver driveways need the poly edge so we dont screw up the driveway.
  18. BSM Exhaust

    BSM Exhaust Member
    Messages: 88

    And also the dealer told me to wear the trip edge down while the cutting edge was installed, does that make sense. When I called Fisher the tech told me that he didnt know much about the new HT and sounded confused so I did what I thought made sense. Fisher also claims that their Poly edge helps absorb plowing vibrations and jarring effects that steel edges have.... so why would you want to wear the steel down first? when Fisher installs these for this purpose. They just need to change the design of the poly edge to fit better on the new HT Series even though they told me I had the right one installed.
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2009
  19. Shortstuff

    Shortstuff Member
    Messages: 94

    Ok, now I'm getting even more confused.

    1. If I take my new cutting edge off of my brand new Fisher 8'HD plow, the bottom of the trip edge will be in contact with the ground/driveway/etc. which will begin its slow wearing process. No big deal and this much I understand.

    2. However, if I leave my new cutting edge on my new plow, it extends down approximately 3/8" below the very bottom of my trip edge. Is someone now telling me that this extra 3/8" is going to cause problems because I'm messing with the leverage of the trip edge?

    I know that an 8" cutting edge would in fact have a serious effect on the trip edge leverage, but my cutting edge is a 6" and I can't see it having much of an effect at all.

    But I'll admit that without experience I may be wrong about this.

  20. BSM Exhaust

    BSM Exhaust Member
    Messages: 88

    No leverage issues, if its a Fisher factory part that is made for your size plow its fine.