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Convert to MM1 or 2??

Discussion in 'Fisher Engineering Discussion' started by Spinman710, Sep 18, 2007.

  1. Spinman710

    Spinman710 Member
    Messages: 47

    I have an older 8' Speedcaster and would like to convert to a Minute Mount 1 or 2 (leaning towards the 1). I'd like to keep my blade if possible (it's pinned, not bolted).

    My current setup is electric over hydraulic mounted on the inner fender, cable joystick, three quick disconnects mounted under the bumper and a 7 pin trailer plug for lights and such. Would like to keep as much as possible...

    So far I've been told that it's going to cost me around $2,600, and I might as well toss what I have and buy brand-new...I'm not looking for all-new equipment, used is fine, but I don't want to throw money away on crap...

    The truck is in very good shape (despite the primer-camo). Converted to GM EFI, 700R4 Auto, Body is solid, engine is strong and very reliable. Buying a new or newer truck is out of the question...

    So what am I going to need to do this conversion? Are there any Fisher part numbers that I need to look out for? (I know of the 7129 push plates).

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  2. Nascar24

    Nascar24 Senior Member
    Messages: 645

    MM1 Conversion


    Depending on the type of speed cast you have will determine if you can re-use with a MM 1.
    If you have the early speed cast with the fabricated quadrant( lower a frame) , forget it it's too much work IMHO.

    If your quadrant is made of channel iron it can be converted by shifting the angle iron crossmember back closer to the mounting ears and boxing the channel iron. You will need a MM1 lift frame and push plates for the mounting iron, as far as the hydraulics you'll need to have quick connections out at the grill if you want to keep the under hood pump. You'll also need to have plugs on your light harness at the grille as well.

    I recently saw a sett of Minute mount push plates for your vintage Chevy on E-bay, and if you need a lift frame let me know I have one.

  3. Spinman710

    Spinman710 Member
    Messages: 47


    I have the quick disconnects mounted on an aluminum plate right under the bumper, as well as a 7 pin trailer connector (I'll post pictures soon)...Moving the crossmember isn't a problem, but why box in teh channel, isn't it strong enough as it is?

    A link to those plates would be great...

    I'm interested in the frame you have...
  4. Spinman710

    Spinman710 Member
    Messages: 47

    Sorry it took so long to post these...I went out to the garage to take these and saw that the neighbor's house was on fire...



  5. YardMedic

    YardMedic PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,266

    That's a pretty spiffy plug system you have going on there. It should make plugging in your new MM1 or 2 much easier (and cleaner). Good luck

  6. Spinman710

    Spinman710 Member
    Messages: 47

    Thanks, I like it...works very well, better than having lines dangling out the grille...and I had an extra trailer plug so I figured I'd use it...
  7. Spinman710

    Spinman710 Member
    Messages: 47

    Found it...and bought them...Thanks Jay!!

    Now about that frame...
  8. Nascar24

    Nascar24 Senior Member
    Messages: 645


    Hey Steve

    Thanks for cleaning up my neighborhood! lol

    Now when I put a couple of my plows out for sale I'll have the only one !xysport

    You probably can see what I was talking about on the crossmember, compare it from your plow to the one you just picked up ?

  9. Spinman710

    Spinman710 Member
    Messages: 47

    Yeah, there's a difference, not just in the crossmember, the A-frame width is different as well. Only by a couple inches, but it's different. I just picked up my push plates from that ebay source and he has a couple MM1's, his vertical frames accept 2 widths (three tabs on both sides creating 2 open slots per side), the one I just bought only accepts one (only two tabs on both sides)...wondering if the smaller frame would stand up to the abuse of a 8' blade or if I should break out the welder...
  10. Spinman710

    Spinman710 Member
    Messages: 47


    Mounted everything up...works great. I'm going to end up using the A-frame from the 7.5' and box it in like the frame on the 8' (just to get rid of the modified dog ears). I need to move my quick connects as they interfere with the support jack, no biggie, I might just drill holes in my bumper, still debating that one. The vertical frame I bought has a slight twist to it, nothing major, but one of the locking pins doesn't slip in, so I'll have to look at that...all in all, it only cost me 500 bucks to switch over, and I'll make most of that back when I sell the extras at the local swap meet on November 3rd and 4th...
  11. Spinman710

    Spinman710 Member
    Messages: 47

    All converted over...here's my setup...I ended up tossing my aluminum header bracket and welded some steel plate to the upper angle, punched some holes in it and threaded the hoses through, and clipped them into place. I moved the 7 pin connector from the bumper to the upper angle as well, and painted the angle once it was all ground and sanded smooth. Next pics you'l see my electric/hydraulic system.




  12. Spinman710

    Spinman710 Member
    Messages: 47

    Here's a closeup of the electric motor, and a real closeup of the rotted tag...anyone have a clue as to who made this?

    Last pic is of my headlight switching (gotta love old trucks)...flip the switch in the cab and the frame lights are active (directionals are always active). All powered off an ignition source, so when the truck gets shut down, so do the lights.

    Let me know what you think...any improvements that anyone can think of?