1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

Changing oil pan on 7.3?

Discussion in 'Ford Trucks' started by Maclawnco, Nov 13, 2012.

  1. Maclawnco

    Maclawnco Senior Member
    from OH
    Messages: 695

    Mechanic just called and said our new 7.3 will need an oil pan. Is there a way to change it without pulling the motor? Any tricks or suggestions are welcome.
  2. Mark13

    Mark13 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 5,794

    Pulling the motor is the correct way to do it. There's other ways to do it but I'd be worried about getting surfaces clean enough, the pan sealing right, etc with the motor still in the truck and oil trying to leak out.
  3. Morrissey snow removal

    Morrissey snow removal PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,798

    u got pull the motor last one i did we pulled it had it done in a long day but also did manifolds while had it out
  4. goel

    goel PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,079

    ^^. Yep. Gives you a chance to fix the little crap at the same time. Might seem costly but do it right.
  5. Maclawnco

    Maclawnco Senior Member
    from OH
    Messages: 695

    thanks all
  6. My bowtie

    My bowtie Senior Member
    Messages: 279

    Some shops around here are cutting the cross member out, changin the pan, then fishplating the cross member back in...Buddy of mine had 2 of 'em done 3 yrs ago...still running the trucks with no issues. Heck of a lot cheaper also.....
  7. Midwest BuildIt Inc

    Midwest BuildIt Inc PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,280

    Dont know what your 7.3 is in, but we used to take out the front body bolts, loosen the rears and lift the engine up till it hits the body. Check, but there was never a problem with anything in between body an engine. then just keep lifting engine/body until there's enough room to get pan out and in. I worked with a mobile truck mechanic and we did 4 7.3s this way. never a problem. we were usually in and out in 3-4 hours. just keep your eye on everything and make sure you dont stretch anything to far, disconnect it if you need to.
  8. 01PStroke

    01PStroke Senior Member
    Messages: 505

    That's how the shop my brother works at tackles it!
  9. damian

    damian Senior Member
    Messages: 330

    google 7.3 rusted pan repair youtube
  10. grec-o-face

    grec-o-face Senior Member
    Messages: 485

  11. coldcoffee

    coldcoffee Senior Member
    Messages: 776

    I've heard some good things about the fiberglass repair kit, surface prep of course will play huge in its effectiveness.

    If you want to just buy yourself some time, I have another method that has worked very well for myself in the past:

    1. Drain oil overnight & degrease pan.

    2. wire wheel, sand & scrape all loose material till your seeing bare metal.

    3. clean surface again w/ brake cleaner or similar.

    4. Make sure surface and air are not too cold (see product info)

    5. Assuming at this point there are no holes larger than a pencil, apply the following product generously over all areas to be repaired:

    Napa's Permatex "Ultra Black" (item # 765-2425)...sold in small tubes & caulk size ($20-25 for caulk size)

    6. Shmear the product around well to get good coverage, after your satisfied w/ the coverage, apply a sheet of tin foil (reynolds wrap or other) to fit the area.

    7. Using your fingers closed together and the palm of your hand, gently massage the foil surface to flatten out the product more evenly and get a good bond between those surfaces...rub out any air pockets & work the heavy spots to the thinner areas.

    8. Waite at least 24 hours or until cured (the longer the better).

    9. Say a few prayers and go ahead w/ refilling your oil. Let the truck sit and idle for maybe 30-60 minutes before driving...check for leak's.
  12. dfd9

    dfd9 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,475

    In the past I've been a big proponent of cutting the crossmember method. I have had a couple work great and a couple that have had to be redone. It is cheaper, when it works. When it doesn't, the company that did it covered the cost, but still, being without the truck for another 2-3 days makes it not so cheap.

    So, I now recommend just pulling the engine and doing it the "right" way.

    If it isn't a bad leak, the fiberglass repair or fuel tank patch kit method works great, every time.
  13. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    I gotta get me one of those.

    Must be an even more fun project in an E Series
  14. 07PSDCREW

    07PSDCREW Senior Member
    Messages: 873

    7.3 oil pan in my shop...Pull the engine. 4-5 hrs...job done



    6.4 Bed plate gasket and water pump cover


    Last edited: Nov 15, 2012
  15. FordFisherman

    FordFisherman PlowSite.com Addict
    from 06611
    Messages: 1,613

    When you factor in the cost of the repair over the life of the motor with a 7.3 its a minimal expense considering they usually go 400K with basic maintenance.
  16. dfd9

    dfd9 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,475

    Get a 6.0 in addition to the 7.3. They are even more wicked good. :rolleyes:

    Another $800 for turbo downpipes so I don't die of CO poisoning or end up with some form of cancer in a year or two because my cab fills with exhaust when cold.

    But just remember, spend $3-4K and this engine is bulletproof. Oh, and the oil pans do rust out on the 6.0s as well. Not as bad, but they do.
  17. got-h2o

    got-h2o 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,440

    I had a truck that had previously been done like that by the dealer. Once trucks started getting out of warranty, it was a cost effective option. I'd do it if I had to do one. Especially with a plow mount, there's nothing to worry about. They honestly did a horse sh!t job on the one I had, and it was still fine. I then sold it to a guy that brought his brother, a Ford diesel tech with him when he bought it. He saw it and didn't bat an eye.
  18. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    My 6.0 runs great. Quiet, always starts. Did have to do exhaust manifolds though...
  19. got-h2o

    got-h2o 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,440

    Ya, mine do too...........how did 6.0's come up in a 7.3 thread?! Put an hpop in a 7.3 and you're right in the same ballpark $ making them relaible.

    Give me a break.

    FISHERBOY Senior Member
    Messages: 542

    IN my dump i've had to replace 2 oil pans, and my pickup has had 1 replaced so far.