That's a great suggestion - much simpler than wiring a diode in.Not sure if a diode is needed for this. Maybe a simple momentary toggle with six terminals on the back. So when going up you are powering the motor and valve. The down would be wired without powering up the motor on the other side, but sending power to that valve/ magnet.
I have a 3 wire switch. I’m wondering if I have everything I need for this setup but my wiring is not correct? Or maybe main solenoid is bad? When I first put power to it main solenoid clicked rapidly in one direction on switch and did nothing on other direction. But in hindsight maybe the magnet coil was actually working But the motor was just jot getting power.Three wire switch, power to the switch, then second wire is power to the motor solenoid, third wire is power to the valve magnet, which ain't there by the video.
thanks I’m going to take it apart tonight and get to know it better. How many volts and CCAs do I need to make it run. Would I need well above 12v like from a running motor?I don't see the switch you are mentioning that Randall has mentioned(a simple momentary toggle). I do still see the pendant. Your pics and vids are so close I cannot tell what is going on as a whole. Couple things come to mind. Low battery power. Bad main power solenoid or bad ground. How are you grounding this motor? In one of your pics there are two threaded blind holes which are 3/8-16 threads if I remember correctly. This is the mount for this thing. The ground terminal from the battery should be attached here. Also, why are you running this pump in the vertical position. Take the plastic reservoir off and you will see how the pump pickup is positioned in relation to the reservoir. Something could also be jammed in this pump. Don't continue to do what you are doing till you know the pump spins freely. When you take the reservoir off you will see the pump right there. Take the bolts out that hold it. There will be a splined coupler there when you pull the pump off the valve block as well as a figure 8 looking O ring. Don't loose them. Make sure the pump spins freely by turning the shaft with your hand. This also will give you a chance to clean all the muck up in that thing and see the orientation this unit should be in.
WHAT?I bypassed the solenoid and got the pump to run. I’m used to starters and the like where the lug on the side is positive and the body of the motor negative. This is opposite.
I know right!?!? Someone earlier in the thread mentioned polarity isn’t relevant on this type of motor so if that’s the case I’ll be changing it back to positive stud and negative case. If I don’t I’ve have to mount this thing in some type of rubber bucket because if it fell off or rubbed it would go BOOM lol.WHAT?
12v systems USUALLY use the case for ground or a stud on the case, and the copper stud in the back is the positive in.
Correct - that is what I said earlier would happen. That is normal operation since it is designed for a 2 port cylinder where the fluid would push to the other end. I believe that you can just plug it and it should work ok but I'm not 100% positive. Worst case, you'd need a hose going from that port back to the tank.only thing is the pump pushes out one outlet that I have the line on and then releases it out the other side. I’m not sure what this will be like in reality, like perhaps it could be plugged and then the fluid will flow back into to the reservoir instead?
I think he can plug that other port, as long as his tank has a breather. Which it should.Correct - that is what I said earlier would happen. That is normal operation since it is designed for a 2 port cylinder where the fluid would push to the other end. I believe that you can just plug it and it should work ok but I'm not 100% positive. Worst case, you'd need a hose going from that port back to the tank.