1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

Can I weld my plow frame solid??

Discussion in 'Fisher Engineering Discussion' started by vi009dz, Apr 30, 2008.

  1. vi009dz

    vi009dz Member
    Messages: 37

    I have a 1993 3/4 ton Suburban and an old speedcast conventional fisher plow, fully hydraulic. The plow used to be on a 1985 3/4 ton GMC, and is a 7'6" model.

    I am moving it to my Suburban. I purchased the push plates and push beam which are correct for the Suburban, but I have a problem.

    The spacing on the "ears" of the plow itself are, say 22", but the spacing on the pushbar itself are approx. 25". The way I understand it, thd 25" spacing is for an 8' plow and the 22" spacing is for a 7'6" plow. The overall width of both pushbars are identical, so the 22" will slide into place on the Suburban, but it won't bolt up. The bolt holes don't line up, and there are tabs welded to the push plate which keep the pushbar from rocking and moving around as well; those don't line up correctly.

    Can I place the pushbar where I need it and just weld the thing solid, all the way around?? This will allow me to use the plow I have, but will make the pushbar and frame mounts one solid chunk. I don't see the issue, but I wanted a 2nd opinion.

    I will be doing my own driveway, along with maybe 2 or 3 others....no full-time commercial use or anything.

    Thanks. -adam
  2. Niteman9

    Niteman9 Senior Member
    Messages: 165

    I have a 1990 dodge with a speedcast on it. This past year i bent the pushbeam and had to replace it. I to was told the 22" pushplate was for a 7.5' but mine is a 7.5' and the spacing was 25". I did a little digging and found out the 22" was for 1/2 ton trucks. They didn't want guys putting the 8 footers on a half ton.

    I went to the fisher dealer and was told the part I needed was not available and they recommended to just welt it on.

    Well I found out from fisher the part was available and it was $208. I found someone in Maine who had a new one and he shipped it to me for $160 shipped.

    So to answer your question I do not see any reason you could not weld the pushbeam on. It would make it hard if not impossible to remove from the truck with out cutting but thats about it.

    Also 20 years ago I bought my first plow. A Meyer which cam off of a jeep CJ. They gave a new moldboard because I needed a 7.5' and jeep used a 6.5'. They told me the mount would work but might need a little modification. I was putting it on 68 Chevy 3/4 ton. We welded the entire mount to the truck. Never was a problem.

    So I would say go for it.
  3. Niteman9

    Niteman9 Senior Member
    Messages: 165

    Or move the ears on the A-Frame or find another a-frame.
  4. plowman4life

    plowman4life Senior Member
    Messages: 557

    it will be fine welding it. ive done it to mine. use a stick welder and weld a bead the width of the thickness of the metal. so 1/4" metal would get a 1/4" bead. you could go even heavier with it. but it should be fine. you could also mig weld it. just make sure you get good penetration with the welds.
  5. vi009dz

    vi009dz Member
    Messages: 37

    Thanks for the input guys....I trust myself welding exhaust and small bracketry, but I wouldn't trust myself welding something that thick. I'll pay someone to handle the job for me. I'm sure is going to be damn near impossible to get it off the truck again, but who knows....I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

    I'd really really prefer to keep the blade I have, as the cutting edge is new and it has a top foil already on it. Everything is in real good shape, and spending money on another blade doesn't sound too appealing.