Cab swap on '92 chevy cheyenne 3500

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by serafii, Jan 31, 2011.

  1. serafii

    serafii Senior Member
    Messages: 287

    i went to the body shop today to get a price to redo the body on my 92 chevry 3500 srw. comes out that the cab is in worse condition that i was hoping. rust bubbles around the windshield, cab bushings on passenger side rotted out and cab is now resting on the frame. the doors are also rotted out on the bottom.

    he told me it would be cheaper to swap cabs than to buy/install a roof, floor panel and bushings and doors. i have a shop to do it myself but dont have a chain block or hoist of any sort to remove the old and place the new.

    i found a scrap yard with about 20 cabs in the yard. $500 to $2500(from just a gutted cab to a complete cab with doors, seat, dash...)

    im just wondering if any of yous have done it and would recommend me doing it or just having the body shop getting it repaired the best they can and try selling the truck come september when my 06 sierra is paid.

    its a 1992 chevy cheyenne 3500 srw. 6.5 turbo diesel. reg cab. 6 speed and all manual inside(doors and windows)

    sorry for the long post. didnt think it owuld be this long

    this is a picture from 2007 when i got it painted to match my 06

    92-fresh paint.jpg
  2. OP

    serafii Senior Member
    Messages: 287

    forgot to mention that he gave me a rough estimate of about 4k for a complete job. thats without calling for prices. he has to get back to me with a final estimate
  3. sweetk30

    sweetk30 Addict
    Messages: 1,587

    500 for empty cab and 2500 for full cab ? :eek: smokin crack

    there was a guy 1-2 years ago with brand new bare cabs with doors in gm crates on ebay for about 1500-2000 each.

    you need to find a 2wd truck with good body and bad drive line. then swap over the parts and go.

    last 2 trucks i have built i got parts/doner 2wd trucks with blown motors for 500 bucks. bodys close to perfect.

    and if the cab is that bad you best check over the whole frame real close for bad spots.

    front boxed section of the frame from bumper up to box area rust out on some. then just behind cab were the factory box/cab mount is welded up to the frame . when these break the truck has the split frame problem.

    and its a bit of work to do in the end. is the truck worth that much to you to drop that much money in to it in the end.

    the only reason i did it 2x is thay were cheep rusted body 1ton 4x4 k30 solid axle trucks 77 and 79. then found 2 2wd with blown motors. and swaped over dirt cheep. if i had to do tons of work on rockers/cab corners/full inside swap over then nope i would of just parted them out.
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2011
  4. OP

    serafii Senior Member
    Messages: 287

    the only reason I would even spend that money is because the engine was replaced and only have about 45 000km on it. I invested about $22k within the last 8 years. 16k in ones year when I did the engine. The frame has been welded and repaired/reinforced already. Knowing that we've put soo much into this truck, it just wouldn't seem right to sell it for like 5k. Something inside wants me to just spend another 3-4k fix it up n just work it til it blows.

    I looked for some 2wd parts truck but can't find anything under 2k

    Gimme some ideas guys

    RBRONKEMA GHTFD 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,416

    If you plan on keeping it get a gutted cab for 500, if you have a buddy with a loader or backhoe or forklift take everything out of the old one, doors and all. The lift the old one off and put the new one on and replace everything as you go. It isn't a hard job. if you plan on selling it, I think I would still just put a cab on it. The body shop can only do so much and its not going to last. I think the newer cab will last longer.