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C-8 short vs long A-Frame

Discussion in 'Meyer / Diamond Products Discussion' started by mzwizanski, Jan 23, 2015.

  1. mzwizanski

    mzwizanski Junior Member
    from dtown
    Messages: 2

    I have a classic tube style mount on my truck but have an older plow with the long A frame from a conventional mount. I have already moved the chain back but am getting tired of the extra length hanging off the front. My plow has the 15" sector and 12" cylinders. I found A-frame #13608 will be the replacement. But I saw #13770 will work but will need 10" cylinders. The 13770 is almost half the cost of the 13608.
    So my questions are:
    1- Will the A-frame with 10" cylinders angle the same amount as the one designed for 12" cylinders?
    2-If not what is the advantage of 12" vs 10" cylinders if both are offered on the same size A-frame?
    3-I'm sure it would be possible to get the 13770 and cut off the cylinder mounting ears and weld them on back farther to work with my 12" cylinders, right?
    Thanks, any input is appreciated
  2. tjctransport

    tjctransport PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,390

    leave the longer frame on it, you will not have to worry about the plow hitting the bumper on full turn like you do with the short frame.
    plus you can still use the plow on your older backup truck.(if you have one)
  3. Nascar24

    Nascar24 Senior Member
    Messages: 645

    I have made several modifications to Meyer A frames and they are quite simple to shorten . you can get the dimensions for the correct length for your specific truck, measure from center pin back to hinge pin point. What I have done is grind the welds around the flat bar stock where it attaches to the angle iron with a cut off wheel, then reposition it at the proper length, clamp and re-weld onto angle iron. Trip off the remaining angle iron with saws all or cut off wheel. By doing it this way you will maintain the correct width for you hinges and not disturb the welds. If your a frame is a narrow one you can add additional gussetts from angle iron out to the end of the bar stock under your hinges. Any good welder can perform this job in an hours time.

    Good Luck
  4. mzwizanski

    mzwizanski Junior Member
    from dtown
    Messages: 2

    I am getting tired of the plow hanging way off the front, it makes maneuvering in tight areas harder. When my plow is angled all the way, the end of blade is still 18" from my bumper so I don't think a 8" shorter A-frame is gonna make it hit. And I don't have a backup truck.

    So I guess my main curiosity is why do they have 2 A-frames with the same measurements but one is set up for 12" and one for 10" cylinders? They have the same bore size so both have the same hydraulic strength.
    Anyone know of any advantages or disadvantages of one or the other?
  5. Nascar24

    Nascar24 Senior Member
    Messages: 645


    The longer A frames were used on the old conventional mount set ups (prior to the removal able tubular classic lift frames) The conventional push beam sits farther under the truck closer to the front axle.

    s I said before have a welder just shorten it up, cost you around a hundred bucks, if you were close to me I would have it done in less than two hours.