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belt fisher to "electro type" options?

Discussion in 'Fisher Engineering Discussion' started by great white, Sep 23, 2012.

  1. great white

    great white Member
    from Canada
    Messages: 34

    Belt Driven Fisher to "electro/Hydro type" options?

    First, I'm just a homeowner, not a commercial "plow-er". I've got 500 feet of rural driveway and we can get a high of 60-75 cm overnight so a plow is pretty much a must for me.

    I had a 36" snowblower mounted on our 25 Hp garden tractor but that was just misery. Cold, wet, slow, noisy and the gravel driveway absolutely DESTROYED the housing and the impeller.

    Yup, plow it is.

    So, here's my problem:

    I've recently changed trucks.

    I was running a Fisher 7.5 minute mount 1 and belt pump on a 1989 K1500 Chev Silverado with a TBI 350. Had a drive sheave on the crank pulley and pump mounted on the accessory brackets.

    It worked good. No problems except a little slow at idle speed sometimes or when stacking heavy loads closer to idle. Basically, a trouble free system that fit my modest needs and got the job done. We only had 1500 bucks into the plow and the truck so it was a great setup for us. Warm, dry, quiet, safe and fast to clear out the driveway.

    Heck, I could even drink my morning coffee while clearing the driveway out for me and the missus! What luxury! What opulence! Truly, this is how modern man was meant to live!

    Then pop two lines, an electrical connector, two pins, drop it all in the garage, pull off my dirty gloves and I'm on my way to work for the day. If it snowed all day, no worries. Pop the truck in 4x4, idle up the driveway, quickly hook up the plow and clear it all out before the missus gets home with the car.

    Makes a guy look like some kind of "superhero" to the wife! Makes sitting on the couch watching TV much easier while she cooks supper - "but honey, I cleared the driveway out and I'm tired, the least you can do after all that hard work is make my favorite supper!"

    :rolleyes:........yeah, that's how it works alright.........:rolleyes:

    Well, the old 89 finally gave up the ghost last year and I had to replace it. The drivetrain was healthy and strong, but the rust finally got it. The body had been repaired several times (no problems for me) but the rust holes appearing in the frame was the killing stroke.

    The new truck is a very solid 1998 K2500 Sierra with the 6.5 TD. It's a Western truck, which means "rust free" in Canadian terms.

    Winter is on it's way and like so many people when the weather is warm and the grass is green I haven't given a lot of thought to winter plowing until recently.

    Yup, Canadian east coast winter will come and it will probably be a "shock and awe" surprise attack. Time to get my butt out in the garage and get the plow fitted to the 98 before we get crushed...

    The plow frame bolts right up as it's the same chassis layout as the 89. Fits like a glove.

    My problem is the pump. There is no space to fit it to the engine. It's all taken up with the serp belt and accessories. I can't even find a spot to mount an engine driven air compressor (which would have higher priority than the plow pump for my uses if I had the space).

    For the record, my truck is also a little different as it has the "ambulance package" dual 105a alternators. That's where any extra space went.

    The drivers side runs the AC compressor, PS pump and second alt, no space left there. The passenger side runs the first alt and the vacuum pump for the turbo wastegate system, no space there either.

    Compounding all this is the fact the 6.5 design is very sensitive to crank loads and breaking cranks because of fatigue loading and casting porosity. Now, I've got a new GEP Optimizer 6500, so it's supposedly better but I'd rather not poke the sleeping bear after spending nearly $10,000 on replacing the GM 6.5 that died on me in the middle of a trip down south (don't ask, trip from hell pulling our 35 foot travel trailer).

    So crank drive sheave is out of the question. I don't think It would even mount up with the fluidampr I have on the engine anyways.....

    So where does this leave me for installing the plow hydraulics on the 98?

    Install a hydo pack of some sort and a joy stick? That just sounds like a lot of money for a 1 driveway plow. At least my electrical system would be up to snuff for it I suppose.

    One thing I really have stuck in my head is mounting a DC motor with a pulley and driving the pump with that. This would give me some freedom in under hood mounting to tuck it into a nice and warm nook under the hood (IE: out of the elements), my electrical system should be able to hack it (dual 105A alts and dual 770CCA batteries) and I could turn it off when not needed. A cab switch and a cole hersee constant duty relay would fix me right up. Using the spools valves and older cable stick in no big deal for me, I already have a plan to integrate it into the dash for a relatively clean appearance if I can work out the pump drive issues.

    One last restriction on all this; I've got next to no money on spend on it so $600-1000 hydro packs are out. I can build, weld and fab near anything (built the mounts for the 89) which is probably because I never have a lot of money to throw around.......:rolleyes:

    Any ideas on how to get out of this one without loosing my shirt here guys?

    Last edited: Sep 23, 2012
  2. leigh

    leigh 2000 Club Member
    from CT
    Messages: 2,342

    Take off the ac for the winter? Will it fit in that space?
  3. peteo1

    peteo1 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,660

    Take out an alternator perhaps. Or since its a MM1 maybe you could search for the truck side wiring. I can't imagine the wiring would be real expensive but I could be wrong. There's a lot of guys on here that would know for sure.
  4. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,392

    I see what your saying with the electric motor driving the pump. Issues. Place to put it? Longer hydro lines for relocation. BIGGEST issue the hp of the motor? I'm assuming that the price of the electric motor and all the other little stuff you'd have into it you could have bought a electic hydro unit
  5. great white

    great white Member
    from Canada
    Messages: 34

    Thanks for the suggestions, but;

    1. the AC stays. Works and removing it would require vacuuming it out and leaving it open. That would ruin it.

    2. The second alternator stays. I run a lot of electric equipment in the truck and need it.

    Keep 'em coming.

    There's got to be a simple way to drive the pump that doesn't cost a mill and doesn't require the engine pulley.

    I was thinking starter motor, but that isn't constant duty....
  6. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,392

    Seems like breaking dwn and buying the insta pump would be easiest. And most cost effective
  7. great white

    great white Member
    from Canada
    Messages: 34

    getting an idea for a kilby serp/v belt alt pulley, a york compressor and the old snow plow belt pump......

    <evil genius at work>