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Bad Day for Somebody

Discussion in 'Equipment, Tools & Vehicle Pictures' started by Antlerart06, Jan 13, 2014.

  1. Antlerart06

    Antlerart06 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,437

    I found this in one my Lots I clean all 8 studs was gone

    Yep Chevy is down

    I wonder if he was over on weight

    This same truck I seen early in the day the frame look bent

  2. dieselboy01

    dieselboy01 Senior Member
    Messages: 795

    Bad way to end a night.
  3. hardwoodcd

    hardwoodcd Senior Member
    Messages: 253

    That sucks! I lost 5 out of the 8 studs on my dodge last year as I was headed in. pulled over, took plow off, lifted up truck with the tiny tiny tiny tiny jack!. The other 3 I could turn the lugs with my fingers. Torqued them down and limped back home. All this before I even got started! His looks worse!
  4. snowish10

    snowish10 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,095

    Thats what ya call overweight.
  5. White Gardens

    White Gardens 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,665

    Yep, and that there is the reason there is weight ratings on trucks.

  6. WIPensFan

    WIPensFan PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,594

    :laughing:.....Dodge. ;)
  7. Mark13

    Mark13 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 5,794

    I bet over tight or loose lug nuts are more to blame then just over weight.
  8. Antlerart06

    Antlerart06 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,437

    Since owning a dually I'm always checking my nuts I had them come loose Thats one thing on my list I check before each snow fall

    You should see that Chevy dually driving down the road frame looks bent where the cab and bed meets
    Next time I see it I'll take photo of it. It looks bad.
  9. CityGuy

    CityGuy PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 17,220

    That sucks for him
  10. SnowGuy73

    SnowGuy73 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 24,870

    That sucks.
  11. jomama45

    jomama45 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,190

    I've seen a few Ford's do that in the last ten years. I'm willing to bet "dollars to donuts" the tires are (were) too big and rubbing....................
  12. scholzee

    scholzee Senior Member
    Messages: 243

    Agree the hole in center of rim slips over onto hub and that carries all the weight. The lug studs should really bear no weight they just keep the rim on the hub. When things are over torqued or get loose then bad things happen. If the lug nuts get loose the rim walks off the hub and then the studs try to support the weight and can break.
  13. Dogplow Dodge

    Dogplow Dodge PlowSite Veteran
    from NJ
    Messages: 3,699

    This is one of the reasons I use a Torque wrench on all my vehicles, with regards to tightening the lugs. IMO, You can't properly judge how tight you're making the nuts with an air impact gun. The reason they made hub-centric wheels, and torque specs was to prevent this scenario. This is another reason to use factory installed rims.

    Some of the universal aftermarket rims are not hub centric, but LUG centric, as they're designed to be used on multiple manufacturers vehicles, and it allows the rims to fit a greater number of vehicles. Unfortunately, they overstress the wheels, as the weight is being forced upon the lugs, and not the hub / rim connection, causing premature failure of the rims.

    I know I was looking for a set of rims for my truck a few years back, and Chevy rims had the smallest center hole in them and wouldn't fit even though the lug pattern was the same. Ford fit fine, but I wound up finding a set of OEM steelies from dodge, and I don't worry about stuff like this happening.

  14. Dogplow Dodge

    Dogplow Dodge PlowSite Veteran
    from NJ
    Messages: 3,699

    My Mitsu manual specifically states that upon initial torquing of the lugs, the vehicle is to be driven for 30-50 miles, then the lugs re-torqued to ensure the lugs are not loose. This procedure is required after each removal of the rim for whatever reason that may be. Although I've never actually found them to be loose after the initial torque, I still feel the need to retorque just in case....
  15. fireball

    fireball PlowSite.com Veteran
    Messages: 545

    if you read a lot of truck maintenance info, this is starting to be the number one problem in the trucking business, wheel failures. Seems with all the anti-ice solutions being used, there is a lot of corrosion going on under the lug nuts. If you rotate tires based on miles, the more problems you have. While some companies have controlled the problem by using stainless steel rims and nuts, the studs remain steel and remain a weak spot. Next time out take notice of the big rigs and you will notice the rust streaks radiating out from the stud and nut areas. We have the drivers every four hours take a break and take a lug wrench and check for loose nuts. After each snow, each truck driveshaft is checked for loose clamps on u joints. All that back and forth driving wears out a drive line system
  16. Whiffyspark

    Whiffyspark 2000 Club Member
    from SOMD
    Messages: 2,403

    Mr tire asks you to bring any vechile back after 20 miles for a free retorque.

    Never had one loose on a retight though.

    I've seen two people put them on finger tight and the wheel fall off on the main road, though. Thats an immediate termination. No questions

    Actually 3. Friend had a 20 inch rim fly off an s10 and total a tundra behind him.
  17. unhcp

    unhcp PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,267

    that will buff out
  18. Nozzleman

    Nozzleman Senior Member
    Messages: 267

    I always use a torque wrench when tightening lug nuts. I also agree with the lug centric vs. hub centric description above. Fancy lug centric aftermarket wheels are fine for a half ton mall cruiser. Tucks loaded at or above their GVW/GCVWR should stick with a hub centric wheel.

    As I'm sure others do, I use anti seize between the rim and hub to prevent seizing. The important thing is to use the anti seize sparingly. You don't want a thick coating on the mating surface of the rim and hub which could prevent proper torquing and seating of the rim.

    Anti seize, a little goes a long way. Put a tiny dab on your finger and then see all the places it ends up.
  19. BUFF

    BUFF PlowSite Fanatic
    from FR NoCo
    Messages: 9,078

    As many have said, torque lug nuts and check 30-50miles after initial installation.
    Anti-Seize is great stuff and I use it on any fastener that is exposed to the elements.
  20. Dogplow Dodge

    Dogplow Dodge PlowSite Veteran
    from NJ
    Messages: 3,699

    On a foot note:

    If you use any type of lubricant, such as wd, teflon, never seize, etc. on your lugs, you want to make sure you do not "overtighten" the nuts, as when you lubricate the threads it changes the torque spec on the lug.

    Vehicle lug nuts are generally supposed to be torqued dry, even though this is counter intuitive to making sure you can get the darn nuts off on the side of the road. When I tighten the lugs on my truck, and I used any type of lube, I reduce the torque 10% or so below the lower end of the specification, especially when there is a large deviation between the high and low torque for the wheels. Why ? the lubricant changes the end torque of the nut on the bolt. My truck specifications are below as an example of what I'm talking about.

    I've used never seize, teflon, oil, and other lubricants over the years, but the dry teflon stuff seems to make a nice clean application of protectant, but you need to reduce the torque spec even more if doing so, as the teflon significantly affects the torque on the lug being tightened. I still always use neverseize on the hubs, as nothing is worse than trying to remove an aluminum rim that has glued itself to the hub, while stranded on the side of the road with a flat tire. I've actually come across situations where the only recourse for getting them to separate is to use a sledge hammer on the back of the tire to get it off.


    Last edited: Feb 4, 2016