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It don't matter. Those are an accident waiting to happen. I'd redo it if I were you
 
Citrausa;1857952 said:
Damn already hooked them up.

The location of the locks are inside the bed housing where the tail light sits. I used some dielectric grease too.
you should be fine. i have scotch lock connections with dielectric grease then taped under my 88 since sept 1988 for the trailer lights, and never once had any problems with them
 
I will wire a 7 pin plug to my back up lights and use the trailer plug to power them. Will mount them on wood stakes in the rear stake pockets. After the storm is cleaned up, off they come.
 
I just wired a pair to my truck using a relay and a 7 pin trl plug. take your auxillary wire from the truckside trl plug to power the relay, use the reverse wire to trigger the relay, ground the relay through the truckside plug and connect the light to the relay. Plug it in and your done. Let the relay carry the load of the lights.
 
If you're willing to do the wiring, put a two-way toggle switch wherever you want (dash, even glovebox/center console is a good spot for this in this case) and set it up so that you can choose between having the lights totally off, switched on independently (battery/fuse block >>> switch position 1), or on the reverse circuit (tap reverse circuit >>> switch position 2).

More work but worth it if that's what you want. Fused, of course!!

Scotch-Locks are kind of the half-ass way of doing it. I think the best way to do anything is crimp-on connectors or soldering, taped over with electrical tape or heat shrink.
 
I have my auxiliary back up lights on a toggle switch inside the cab, as well as all my other lights. All my connections are heat shrunk and covered so they are waterproof. Also, I always wire all my switches off of the ground and not power.
 
I used the factory fog light switch to power my add-on reverse lights (since the fog lights were removed a long time ago). This way, the lights are run off a relay and are properly fused. Nice to be able to leave them on while plowing no matter which direction I am moving.
 
I got mine from BackupBuddy. They came with a nice 7 way plug for my trailer outlet. Bright as hell, and have a switch to turn them on manually for working behind your truck if needed.

Vehicle registration plate Automotive lighting Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle
 
dieselss;1854510 said:
Leds draw less then regular lights. If done properly you won't melt the wiring. But imo still better to wire in to a separate switch
You should still check your wattages...You can get some pretty high intensity high output...HIGH WATTAGE LEDS now
 
AccuCon;1879132 said:
You should still check your wattages...You can get some pretty high intensity high output...HIGH WATTAGE LEDS now
And they pull how many amps then?
 
When my upfitter built my truck, they installed the usual 2led lights in the bumper for backup lights. I had them add 2 more, one on either side on the rear fenders pointing out/down so i had light to the sides and behind when backing. I then had them wired through one of my upfitter switches so that they all 4 come on anytime i put the truck in reverse, but also can be turned on anytime i want, making them great work lights, as well as great for use to see spread pattern while salting. Works great.
 
dieselss;1879304 said:
And they pull how many amps then?
Watts/Volts=Amperes

so 48w/12v is 4A.... It can add up quick

Example

this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/36-234W-CRE...Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c3909ef6d&vxp=mtr

Is 234Watts or 19.5A I would not tie that into your reverse lighting circuit without relaying....

I used an obvious extreme...But think about it you already have 30W incadescent halogen blubs on your reverse circuit pretty sure if you put two 36W LED work lights on the same circuit you will be overloading it...
 
I wouldn't either. Me saying separate switch was also including a relay. But I understand your statements. Thx for the heads up
 
jasburrito;1879682 said:
I think they should be on a switch separate from reverse. Seems alot of times backing up you need to be in neutral.
What?.....
 
dieselss;1879693 said:
What?.....
Like for instance backing down a hill. Truck in Neutral so you aren't fighting engine power as well trying to stop when slick.
 
I mounted two nice new LED lights under my bumper last winter and they lasted about a month.... It was a record snowfall season but I will never mount there again. Smashed them (even though they pivoted) I did however tap into reverse lights and grounded it to frame without issue. This year they are goin on the bed rail!
 
derekslawncare;1879724 said:
Like for instance backing down a hill. Truck in Neutral so you aren't fighting engine power as well trying to stop when slick.
Oh, I just push in the clutch.
If there's traffic or people, then there not alerted to you backing up by lights or a beeper
 
dieselss;1879737 said:
Oh, I just push in the clutch.
If there's traffic or people, then there not alerted to you backing up by lights or a beeper
Hard to push in a clutch in a truck w/auto trans, but you too have a valid point as far as no warning. I have enough flashing lights on my truck to be mistaken for a vegas casino though, so if they can't see me coming, they shouldn't be out.
 
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