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Anyone know what a CJ plowframe will fit? And any general tips on plowing with a jeep

Discussion in 'Jeeps' started by ThatGuy9862, Sep 17, 2005.

  1. ThatGuy9862

    ThatGuy9862 Junior Member
    Messages: 6

    I bought a CJ7 the other night with a nice belt driven (no dead batteries) plow setup on it. Problem is other than the plow setup the jeep moves but the body is shot to the point I'm afraid the plow will rip off the frame if I push snow with it. So I'm looking for somthing to put the plow frame on, logically another CJ7 comes to mind but they're hard to come by and I'd really like to put it on a YJ (87-95) wrangler. Does anyone have any idea about the compatablity? I know the upper part of the frame will go on easially or be easy to make fit. It's the lower half that I'm concerned about.

    Also I notice when driving with the plow up you have to accelerate slowly or it will burn out from the weight on the front. I can't imagine the steering will be great like that driving on snowy/icey roads. What do you guys do about that, just add weight to the back? Also do you do anything to the suspention, I was thinking about doing a 1in add a leaf lift in the front so it would be balenced out with the extra weight up there.

    Last thing, if you angle left all the way it gets stuck and you have to get out and give it a good push or drive into somthing on the left. Which piston has gone bad, the left right? Where is a good place to get pistons online or am I better off going somewhere local?

    Any help is much appreciated.
  2. dubeb31

    dubeb31 Member
    Messages: 68

    the plow setup should fit onto a YJ because the base of a YJ and CJ7 are very simular...i'd go for the early 90's 4.2l High Output Straight 6...and maybe an add-a-leaf for the the springs....but YJ's are built more like a truck then the new jeeps...great for driveways...GOOD LUCK :)
  3. tvpierce

    tvpierce Senior Member
    from Maine
    Messages: 209

    What year CJ do you have?

    What is the the plow? Since it's belt-driven I assume it's a Fisher -- unless it's a really old Western. If it's a Fisher, you have one of the most reliable systems around -- hold onto it!

    Is just the body shot, or is the frame bad too? If the frame is in good shape, you can buy a fiberglass body that will never rust. (I have one on mine.) Another option is to put a YJ body on your CJ frame (a popular swap). You can also buy a complete galvanized frame -- you're talking a major project though.

    A YJ frame is wider than a CJ frame -- by about 4" if I remember correctly. So even if the frame mounts work, you'd have an issue with the push beam being 4" too short. There may be a solution to that though... I have a push beam that's about 4" longer than my CJ push beam. I got it as a spare with a parts-plow that I bought a few years ago. I'm holding on to the beam in case I ever have to make the CJ to YJ swap. I don't recall there being a part # on it, but a good Fisher dealer ought to be able to help you ID what you might need.

    Yes, you need weight. I use 4 or 5 50 lb bags of dry playsand from Home Depot. That way if you get stuck, you can cut one open and use it to get traction. Make sure you get the dry sand, because if it has some moisture in it, it will be harder to use when it's frozen. A hard top also helps with traction, because it weighs about 150 lbs (I'm guessing) and it puts most of that weight over the rear wheels.

    I have 2" lift springs on mine that are pretty stiff, so I haven't had to do anything else yet. But I know some guys use Timbrens, and I know one guy who is very happy with a set of Monroe load-carrying/air-adjustable shocks on the front of his CJ-5 -- he swears by them, and he's a brilliant Jeep guy.

    The cylinders are push-only, they don't pull. So if it won't angle to the right, the the left cylinder is the problem. It could just be the seal packing in that cylinder. The nut at the end of cylinder is removable. It could just need to be loosened, or it could need new packing.

    If you go to a YJ, you also have to be mindful of the belt drive. I think they're all serpintine (sp?) belts. So you'd have to adapt there too.
    As far as model year/engines, here's some info:

    1976 - 1986 CJ/258 (4.2 liter L6) Carb
    1987 - 1990 YJ/258 (4.2 liter L6) Carb
    1991 - 1995 YJ/4.0 liter Fuel Injected
    1996 - Current TJ/4.0 liter Fuel Injected (coil spring suspension)

    All YJ & TJ 4 cylinder engines are fuel injected.

    Unless you have a T4 or T5 transmission, the drivetrain in a CJ is more robust than the drivetrain in a YJ or TJ. This makes it ideal for plowing. If you can, I would recommend staying with the CJ. If you can't, then my preference would be a '91-'95 YJ with 6 cyl. engine. Personally, I prefer a manual, but many others like automatics.

    Hope this helps. Post back with updates.

    Jeff Pierce
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2005
  4. ThatGuy9862

    ThatGuy9862 Junior Member
    Messages: 6

    The CJ is an 81 the body, frame, doors, tailgate, exhaust, carb, and other small misc things are all shot. It's also an automatic which I don't want so I'd have to swap in a manual. It just isn't worth it to me to repair that jeep, I'm going to salvage any good parts off it and junk the rest.

    I'm not sure what the plow is I can't find any markings at all on anything. I've looked around for a spare pump and havn't been able to find any. Whatever the system is it's old and I've never seen one like it before. It has an external hydrolic tank and a small pump all the others I've seen have a hydrolic tank built into the pump and are longer and cylindrical. Actually I just found one similar to what I have, not exactly the same though. It does have that big thick steel sqare resevoir but the pump and line placements are differant.

    That's what I was afraid of with the frames. The worst case would be I think I can make my own frame from some angle iron and modifying the one I have. I'd have to just tack weld it together (only have a 110v mig). Then I'll take it to a welding place and have them finish it off.

    I think they started useing serpentine belts in 91 along with the 4.0L motor, in any case mine has V-belts so I'm ok there.

    Your drivetrain point is a good one.
    The Dana 35 axles they put in the rear of the YJs are junk and notorious for going bad. In fact that's how I got my YJ for such a good deal, the axle was blown. I have another 35 in there as well as a spare one right now. This season hopefully I'll get buy but I will be moving to a Ford 8.8 or Dana 35 probably with 3.55 gears instead of the 3.07 I have now.
    I also have the Puke-Crap transmission as it's commonly refered to but people have plowed with them for many years with no problems, it's all about knowing the limits of your vehicle and not abusing it. I'm also on the lookout for an AX-15 to swap in which will make the drivetrain a little more ridgid. The CJ is also an automatic which I don't want.

    Thanks for the information, I'll let you know how getting the plow set up goes once I get to it.
  5. Plow Boy

    Plow Boy Junior Member
    from N. Il
    Messages: 1


    I had a 1979 CJ-7 with a western plow set up and I just put it to rest, bummer it was fun! Now I have a 1990 wrangler I put the plow on and yes the frame is wider so I had to retro fit parts for it! Now my new problems is the springs are softer than the CJ so wanted to know if I should add springs or try the Air left that had been tried by others on here...ussmileyflag
  6. '76cj5

    '76cj5 Member
    Messages: 78

    Go with the air. You don't keep the plow on all year do you?
    I think you can use air bags style on a TJ with the coils.
  7. theplowmeister

    theplowmeister 2000 Club Member
    from MA
    Messages: 2,617

  8. kraz

    kraz Junior Member
    Messages: 2

    old plows on a cj


    I know its an older post but I know several old timers that swear by pully powered plows. They were common on gas station jeeps (sorry I forget the designations) but they were the older jeeps used on owner/operator gas stations, the jeeps had the large push bumpers that helped move cars into their service bays. Old timers would keep these setups and no amount of money would get them to part with them.
    As the old timers went away and sold off their stations to retire or for health reasons, these jeeps were relocated to farms and because a jeep is a jeep, most turned back into iron ore and some some wound up in junk yards. In my searches, i have seen a couple of plow setups/whole vehicles up for sale for next to nothing. The season has a lot to do with the price on plows/rigs. Closer to winter, the price is through the roof, while here almost June, deals can be had. The next problem is where there at. Closer to major cities, supplies are low and the price is high. The deals are at least a lunch and several snacks away, out in the boonies. These were searched on craigslist.
    If you want to get a relative deal jeep on newer technology, western plows with the older cable controls seem more plentiful, at decent prices with common spares as close as your major auto supply store( Orielys are where i noticed this). Yes, I know Meyer's plows are also plentiful but I can't speak for meyers due to never owning any.

    My older western plows haven't disappointed me in the years I've been playing with snow.

    Finally, not knowing how rough you'll be plowing, but keep an eye on your vehicle frames. There is a bit of weight its the support for and over time and the buried curb or whatever will help create stess cracks that are part of the game

    All the best,:ussmileyflag
  9. kraz

    kraz Junior Member
    Messages: 2

    Also, airbags are great and can be adapted to coil spring vehicles, but some fab is required. Custom shops can do the jpb as well as experienced people with the right equipment. I bought a 2004 Ford f350 with them installed by the po and hey are the cats ass. They great supporting weight, and once dialed in, bumps you would feel in a standard equipped truck seem to disapear....