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ANY help ...

Discussion in 'Truck & Equipment Repair' started by iowaplowboy, Nov 10, 2007.

  1. iowaplowboy

    iowaplowboy Member
    from Iowa
    Messages: 37

    I bought an old truck with a 7 1/2' Meyer plow. Some battery cables,plugs, lights, and truck will be fine.

    Two problems, though. One prob'ly simple, one maybe not.

    1). How do I identify WHICH meyer plow I have?
    7 1/2' long, about 2' tall, 4 trip springs, and an E47.

    2). Seems plow is too low.
    When it's fully raised, I can't see the top of the blade (just the markers). When I drop it, it will actually raise the front of the truck. When I have it as "down" as it gets, I'm still looking at several inches of cylinder. I STOOD on it, and can't get it to go in any more. No slack in the chain even when down. I tried putting something under the blade and lowering, but no slack in the chain.

    ANY ideas, fellas ...? Hot coffee or cold beer (your choice) to the first guy who can solve this ....
  2. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    The easiest way to identify it is to post a pic of the back side of the plow.. But since you said it has 4 trip springs, it's probably a "Husky" series (now called a "C" series) Now I say probably because at some point someone could have added the extra spring/springs to a "ST" series blade. Posting a pic really is the easier method to POSITIVELY identify it.
    The chain just needs moved up on the lift arm hook a couple links. But it sounds like by your description that you can't get the lift cylinder to go down any farther than the weight of the blade will pull it. First make sure the control is in the float position and then stick a long pry bar through the chain hole on the lift arm and manually pull it down..this will put slack in the chain so you can move it up a few links..

    If it won't go down by using the bar method then the lift cylinder is probably rusted/damaged and will need to be pulled apart and replaced/repaired.

    Note: using the "pry bar method on them if the cylinder bore IS rusty can score the packing cup at the base of the ram since your forcing it down through a rusty/corroded cylinder which can cause it to then leak down when the plow is raised.. but if it's that rusty that it won't go down by hand, it's gonna take it out anyway.
    Cream and sugar please..:D
  3. iowaplowboy

    iowaplowboy Member
    from Iowa
    Messages: 37


    Solved the one problem. Had my wife lower the blade while I stood on it. Went right down, just had to have the control activated when I pushed it ('case someone else runs into this problem, which I suspect).

    Posting photos of back of plow (attachment).

  4. Wicked500R

    Wicked500R Senior Member
    Messages: 394

    And that would be the lighter duty ST series that someone modified and put 4 springs on. The control does need to be in the lower/float position for the ram to go down. When the blade is lowered, you should be able to just push down on the lift arm and use a little body weight to get it to go down all the way. It's OK to not see the blade when it is up, some applications are like that. you might see the top edge when it is angled but thats about it. This is important...When you hook up your chain, and the lift arm is all the way down, you will want to leave some slack in it...lift the plow and drop it...you will want about 2 1/2-3" of the ram exposed to allow the plow to drop when needed to follow the road surface and going up and down driveways...Once you have that set...just mark the link it is on and hook up to that link every other time...

    BTW...the moldboard on that has also been changed...you can see the bends in it to make it half round...
    And looking at the pic closer... the chain looks to be set good if the plow is down.

    Just half and half in mine...:D
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2007
  5. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    It's an ST-90 to be exact...more than likely early 80's and up (mold board sheet is "pinched" over the top), and the visible ribs in the moldboard curve are normal..many of the older moldboards (including other plow manufactures besides Meyer) were curved with a press brake rather than an actual roller press like is used today..

    Extra large please..any maybe a donut too?.;) :D
  6. Wicked500R

    Wicked500R Senior Member
    Messages: 394

    I have seen numerous Meyer and other brand plow blades, can't count how many...Dating back to the early 70's and I have never seen a factory moldboard curved on a press brake from the factory!...:dizzy:
    And how do you know it's not an ST-84?? LOL
  7. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Really? I'm surprised you've never seen an old plow with the paint worn off the front that made it look like it had horizontal "stripes" showing through what was left of the paint? That's what your seeing, is the ribs from where it was formed with a press brake...Meyer did them that way for years and years....if you use a DA and sand the old paint down while doing a refurbish on a blade, you can see the ribs real easy also.
    Because if you read his first post he said it measured 7 1/2 ft. wide. That's 90 inches.. which equals an ST-90.

    Do I still get the coffee?:D
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2007
  8. iowaplowboy

    iowaplowboy Member
    from Iowa
    Messages: 37


    You fellas are the man. One thing to be a snowplow OPERATOR, you fellas are snowplow STUDENTS :)

    Yes, you still get the coffee. You can have it here whenever you get through, or I will (really) wire your bowl of chili and a POT of coffee (or whatever you boys put in you on the REALLY cold nights - good to see you pass on the beer til AFTER the plow) to the 24-hour diner of your choice.

    Jeff, in Fort Dodge, IA. Drop the blade coming up the drive if ya will, ... I'm probably out plowing somewhere else!
  9. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Here's a good pic of the front side of a Meyer blade where you can clearly see the lines showing through the paint on the moldboard sheet where it was formed with a press brake.....

    Last edited: Nov 19, 2007
  10. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    Another way to tell if it's a "Husky" is that it has the bigger angle cylinders.
    That looks nothing like my "Husky". The inner most ribs come down onto the pivot pin boxes. The upper spring mounts are a flat piece of stock welded between the 2 inner most ribs.
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2007
  11. heather lawn spray

    heather lawn spray PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,206

    I've always wondered what all the bend lines were about. . .

    Now we know the rest of the story. . .

  12. fnltch

    fnltch Junior Member
    Messages: 19

    hey I'll take that cup of coffee next time I get parts at hi-way truck..
  13. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    :nono: That's my cup of coffee..:D
  14. iowaplowboy

    iowaplowboy Member
    from Iowa
    Messages: 37

    Ouch ...

    I went down there ONCE to find an adjustable ladder rack for my Chevy (88). Priced 'em in the box (no install). Found the same one an hour later at Menards, $100.00 less for same item. Installed myself in less than an hour.

    Need to look at my plow lights (last thing) and thinking I'll do that myself as well...

    Coffee pots, though, I just replace as required :)