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Another questions, getting plow on and off

Discussion in 'Fisher Engineering Discussion' started by dunbar15, Mar 31, 2007.

  1. dunbar15

    dunbar15 Junior Member
    Messages: 10

    Hello , I;m new to plowing, bought a used fisher 8' for my 00 F350, when removing the
    plow have a hard time getting pins out, tried grease and it helped, its a MM1 I think around
    a 2000 model. I just downloaded the manual and they show a rod to pry on the jack to help pull pins out. It didnt come with it, does anybody use this, does it help ??
    It looks like its for fine tweaking the height of the plow up. No matter what I do with the Jack height adjustment the height is a little off making the pins hard to pull out.. If I need this, does the fisher dealer carry it, how much

    Thanks for any help with this
  2. Mick

    Mick PlowSite.com Veteran
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,546

    I wouldn't go to any trouble getting one. I used mine for a couple of months after I got the plow new. Then the end came loose and never used it again. What you want to do is first drop the jackstand. Then pry it up enough so the pin goes in the next HIGHER hole (this is what the rod is supposed to be for - I'd just lift on the front of the frame). Now, the pins will still usually be hard to get out as there is some resistance. You need to lift up on the headgear as you pull the pins (I used my shoulder to "lift" the headgear. Sometimes, I'd also use a pry bar to pull the pins.) By lifting the headgear, you're relieving the pressure on the pins and can then pull and twist them.

    The worst part is trying to hook up the plow when it's too low. I learned that real quick when I unhooked on the ground and the stand sank into the dirt after a rain.:realmad: :cry: :realmad: :cry: The last time I did that, I wound up using the tractor and front end loader to lift it enough to get it lined up. If you unhook outside, put a block of wood under the jackstand.

    As you try different methods, you'll find what works best for you. I found that selling both MM1's and getting a MM11 worked best.
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2007
  3. Bruce'sEx

    Bruce'sEx Senior Member
    Messages: 873

    Are you making sure the lift ram is, going all the way down? it loses the chain that way, letting you push back on the headgear, normally making it easier to remove the pins.
  4. SuperDuty

    SuperDuty Senior Member
    Messages: 147

    What I do is let the center arm down on a block and push the head gear foward. You have to make sure that the ram is all the way down, if not the alignment will give you a problem

    Good Luck!!!
  5. dunbar15

    dunbar15 Junior Member
    Messages: 10

    Thanks !!!

    Thanks for the help guys, I was definatly killing myself by leaving the lift cylinder to high,
    chains to tight. Lowered it completely, havent tried getting it on and off yet since we havent had snow since I got it but can see that with the lift down I can position the head
    much easier.. The 2 pins that connect the upper frame to the lower one are on the lowest hole, a fisher tech told me they should be on the middle holes for a superduty, will moving those help ?? Also my cutting edge is flush with the plate it mounts to (trip plate) ,
    how much overhang should the cutting edge have, do I need to replace it ???

    Thanks again
  6. Mick

    Mick PlowSite.com Veteran
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,546

    I'd follow the tech's advice on the placement of the pins.

    Brand new, the cutting edge will be flush with a new trip edge. Both will wear together and simply make it longer until you need to replace the cutting edge. This is why they sometimes recommend waiting until the trip edge is worn down an inch or so. But, overall, I doubt that it makes much difference. The main thing is not to let it wear down so much that the bottom of the spring housing is being worn. I "talked" to a guy on here a few years ago who that happened to. He bought a used plow and wore the spring shackles out before he put a new cutting edge on it. The result was the spring botton had nothing to hold it. He then had a REAL problem as the plow was essentially useless (ok, maybe as a lawn ornament or a giant paperweight). So, as it wears, keep an eye on the spring shackle wear and put a new edge on before it gets that far. There are a couple thicknesses of cutting edges available and the thicker the metal - the longer it'll last. But, thicker = more $$$. Also, cutting edges come in several types - rubber, steel and polyurethane are the most common. Before you settle on any type, make sure it meets your needs considering the surfaces you plow and the money you have to spend. Also, don't forget that you can usually use both sides of a cutting edge.
  7. dunbar15

    dunbar15 Junior Member
    Messages: 10

    thank you mick

    thanks Mick, excellent info, your a huge help... dunbar15