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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok guys, brand new here and trying to get my E-47 Meyer working correctly. This might get long, so hang in there. I just want to give as much info as possible so I don't end up buying things I don't need to.

So I bought this truck/plow used from a guy to use on our farm. It worked well, but then started having problems.

First was the going left issue, when pressing up/raise or sometimes right on a 2 switch homemade control mounted to dash. (One toggle for up/down, one toggle for left/right). It was an intermittent issue, didn't always go left when I pressed raise or right. So I ended up buying and replacing the B valve/coil per what I had read here. Also I tried to flush as much as I could of the old fluid, this is a older E-47 without the bottom drain plug, only the 2 holes for filters (replaced the 2 filters as well). I filled it up with Meyer M-1 fluid and it seemed to work ok. But then after a little use it would still go left sometimes when pressing raise and right. This is problem #1, still have this issue.

Second issue is the plow itself will just quit working all together randomly. I can hear the elec motor working, but nothing happens, no up/down, no left/right. From scouring over this forum I'm guessing it's the gear pump?, but I have zero experience, so I'll leave that to someone more in the know. Sometimes if I just park it and come back it will start working but always stops working after awhile of use. I do have a leaky wiper seal on top of ram that needs fixed also.

When I replaced the B-valve/coil, I cleaned the whole pump really well, made better connections for the pos/neg on both the pump itself and (new) solenoid and battery connections. I also took out the C valve and inspected it, along with the coil. Looks like a newer C-coil compared to other coils, all seemed well, but I did notice the A-coil wire is cut in a few spots, I'll get one and replace it as well. The wiring going to the control panel looks well done, granted it's a little half-assed (some wire nuts, etc). But nothing looked in need of redo/replacing. Wiring is in good shape, not rubbing, etc. I'm guessing I don't have a wiring issue, but stranger things have happened. The controls all seem to work well when this thing works!

So my shopping list so far is...
1) Basic Seal Kit/Wiper seal
2) A-Coil, possibly valve as well

Let me know your thoughts, I'll answer as many questions as I can. Just trying to get this thing working as my wife and I use it quite a bit here in MN winters! Thanks, lots of good info here in this forum!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Also I should add, when the plow quits working and I try up or left/right, the volts drop significantly on the truck. I'm guessing it is just from trying to move the plow (the elec motor engaging), but not sure if this is a sign of something. If I rev up the motor it seems to help keep the volts steady.
 

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Sounds like you have a freezing issue. I would start by removing top cap and dumping all the fluid out. Disconnect rams and purge the fluid out of them. Replace wiper seal while cap is off. When the pump acts up test for magnetism at coils. The older switches are known to stop sending signal to valves but will still send signal to motor solenoid, this will cause plow to go left. While top is off there is a screen inside. At least clean this, we remove them most of the time. A small amount of moisture will block these screens. If pump is freezing it can cause a high voltage draw because it is dead heading the pump but may be worth while to have motor draw tested or just get a new one and keep the old for a spare.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sounds like you have a freezing issue. I would start by removing top cap and dumping all the fluid out. Disconnect rams and purge the fluid out of them. Replace wiper seal while cap is off. When the pump acts up test for magnetism at coils. The older switches are known to stop sending signal to valves but will still send signal to motor solenoid, this will cause plow to go left. While top is off there is a screen inside. At least clean this, we remove them most of the time. A small amount of moisture will block these screens. If pump is freezing it can cause a high voltage draw because it is dead heading the pump but may be worth while to have motor draw tested or just get a new one and keep the old for a spare.
So do you think the gear pump may be ok? And you're saying to have the elec motor tested?
 
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