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burlingtonplow;1075875 said:
Does anyone recommend a shop to do the fluid change for me besides the fisher dealers. They are too far and want me to drop it off
If you are handy at all, the fluid change is a very easy DIY project.
 

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Personally, I'm not that detailed... I take off the res , inspect the gasket, replace the screen, put it all back together and fill with new fisher fluid... It gets 90% of the fluid out and takes about an hour to do .. knock on wood, no problems in 15 years.....
 

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Motorman 007;1076381 said:
If you are handy at all, the fluid change is a very easy DIY project.
Would you be willing to explain a little more in detail? Burlingtonplow and I ( and probably many others) would like to be able to change the fluid by ourselves but haven't done it yet and would appreciate a little helping hand. Thanks
 

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burlingtonplow;1075875 said:
Does anyone recommend a shop to do the fluid change for me besides the fisher dealers. They are too far and want me to drop it off
Where in NW MA are you located? There's a great Fisher dealer in Adams, Maple Grove Equipment.
 

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Mick76;1076432 said:
Personally, I'm not that detailed... I take off the res , inspect the gasket, replace the screen, put it all back together and fill with new fisher fluid... It gets 90% of the fluid out and takes about an hour to do .. knock on wood, no problems in 15 years.....
I think that's what I'm going to do. You don't bother with trying to drain/fill the cylinders?
 

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grec-o-face;1094139 said:
I think that's what I'm going to do. You don't bother with trying to drain/fill the cylinders?
Naw, The Res has most of the fluid... the remainder in the cylinders just gets mixed in with the new stuff... its kind of like getting your tranny flushed way back when before they had machines that could tget 100% of the fluid out
 

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if you wanted to change the fluid in the angle piston lift the plow put a jack stand under the lower triangle near the pivot pin lower the plow onto the jack stand disconnect the angle hoses and push the plow all the way from left to right to compress the pistons and then refill the res and angle the plow to bleed the system after its all bleed just top off the fluid with the up down piston fully compressed
 

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Mick76;1076432 said:
Personally, I'm not that detailed... I take off the res , inspect the gasket, replace the screen, put it all back together and fill with new fisher fluid... It gets 90% of the fluid out and takes about an hour to do .. knock on wood, no problems in 15 years.....
I do it the same way, works great.
 

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winged1dur;1094079 said:
Would you be willing to explain a little more in detail? Burlingtonplow and I ( and probably many others) would like to be able to change the fluid by ourselves but haven't done it yet and would appreciate a little helping hand. Thanks
how old is the fluid in the plow now this will depend on if a drain and fill will be all you need to do some will disconnect the hydo unit drain the res can and replace or inspect the screens I just rebuilt my whole unit last year so a drain and fill is good for me its not a bad idea to inspect the screen if the fluid has not been changed in a while there could be some metal in there that will would not have seen with a drain and fill and we all know a broken plow does not make any money when its snowing out
 

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Mick76;1094176 said:
Naw, The Res has most of the fluid... the remainder in the cylinders just gets mixed in with the new stuff... its kind of like getting your tranny flushed way back when before they had machines that could tget 100% of the fluid out
Cool. My blade's still in storage, I hope to get it in a week or two. I've never pulled the Res before - but it can't be that hard, right?
 

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The full fluid change (including he pistons) lessens the chances of water in the fluid from condensation which can cause freeze-up in really cold temps. Only takes a few extra minutes for peace of mind (or piece of mind for you maiden fans).
 

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Fluid Change not too difficult

I just did my first swap of Fluid on my HT series.
Used a Jack stand covered with a cloth under Plow Arm near pivot pin.
Remove Breather (Slowly)
Drained reservoir into a catch bucket. One square plug underside of pump.
Used a funnel under plug area to route fluid to catch bucket,
Stuff comes out fast! Use a good size funnel.
Marked the hoses (removed 3 total-DS,PS & Highest Lift Hose from off Pump.
Kept them pointing upwards as didn't want to make a mess.
Had to un-wrap some of the cabling chafe prevention~6 inches to allow pulling hoses out from back plate are to drain. Used the top of the catch lid to oil bucket to collect hose oil.
Moved blade by hand slowly in both directions (again-too fast and fluid goes everywhere)
After several toggles back & forth (No More Fluid) I reconnected hoses & re-wrapped to prevent chaffing. Tightened hoses carefully to prevent cracking fittings etc. wiggling of hose while first seating seemed to help center it on connector. Put drain plug back in & Refilled reservoir with Fisher Hydraulic fluid. Removed air by cycling all cylinders several times. Topped off fluid again & all seems good.:mechanic:
 

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I just pull the reservoir off, dump it, wipe it and reinstall.
The first time I did this with my current plow, I saw that the suction tube thing did not have the bracket that holds it in place.
I've had the suction tube fall off while plowing a gravel road or other rough surface. That sucks at 2:00am in the middle of a snow storm!
I would pull the reservoir off myself if I were you. Just so you can verify with your own eyes whether or not that retainer thingy is installed.
 
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