Additonal modifications 7.5 poly

Lou

Member
Modifications (Meyer 7.5):

1. Went back to the stock width

2. Welded 1/4" full length stock on the A frame rails

3. Welded 3/8" stock above the ring guide and extended it out
3/8ths of an inch

4. Built up the ring guide wear on the A frame legs and ground
them flush

5. Got some hard surfacing rods (spendy) and put a nice hard
edge on the cutting blade

6. Replaced the lift chain with a higher strength grade along
with a new hoop


For a listing of past modifications hit the search icon. This
plow has been in service for 7 years and has been used
every summer for grading the road and spreading cinders
(red crushed rock) I had reservations about a poly plow but
it has served me well.
 

BRL

PlowSite.com - Veteran
Location
Somerset, NJ
Ah, the classic case of using a snow plow for a bulldozer. I hope you don't hit any major objects or curbs at a decent speed while plowing, because the plow won't fail now, which means something on the truck probably will. I used a Meyer poly plow for a few years and loved it. They are built heavier and better than the steel 7.5's to properly support the poly mold board. I ended up trading it for another 8' steel Meyer because I couldn't add wings to the poly.
 
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Lou

Member
Oh really ?

Well thanks for the tune up. I left the backstrap stock. If the plow is going to get tweaked, that is where it will happen. The easiest part to strighten or repair. All the modifications made have resulted in a really good duty plow. Cost: about $300. That's a lot cheaper then 4K.

I post the mods so that other owners of light duty Meyers may benefit by them. Haven't had a failure yet.

Bulldozing and grading are two different things.
By removing the moldboard, It is quite simple to do light road work without damage to the plow frame or truck. Don't do much pushing, but a lot of back dragging. Any spillover from trying to cut too much simply rolls over the cutting blade.

Unlike some folks who always have ruts, potholes and light flooding on their flat surface roads, I prefer a crowned road. Harder to shape and plow, but drains exceptionally well.

I do admit that the cutting blade has shown excessive wear. The hard surfaceing should resolve that problem. The reason I don't worry about hitting any objects is that there aren't any.

Love living outside the box!
 

75

PlowSite.com Addict
Yes, I've seen the grading application myself - friend of mine did that to spread some fresh gravel on his driveway. Backdragging slow & careful, it worked pretty well.

Hard surfacing rod is tough stuff - and it's a lot of $$$ too. Fortunately, any time I've used it, the customer was paying for it! (Any time I've done hard surfacing, it was crusher buildup for quarry operations) How did you lay it on? On the lower portion of the cutting edge face, on the edge itself (1/2" or 3/8" thick) or both?

BRL brings up a good point for anyone wanting to make their plow "indestructible" - better the plow frame to get bent (like the backstrap on yours) than the truck frame.
 
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Lou

Member
Hard surface reply

Ran two beads full length from the outside edges to the center line. The third bead ran between and above. I agree with you and BRL that an out is absolutely neccessary when building up a plow.

Forgot to answer your question: 1/2" total....yes that surface rod IS expensive.
 

plowking35

2000 Club Member
Location
SE CT
All I can say is why? With your time considered you could have bought a new plow that is alot stornger than a 7.5' meyer.
And new edges are cheap compared to hard surfacing rod, and your time. Of course urethane is better yet, and will outlast a hard faced cutting edge as well.
Also what you may find is that by heating that edge with the rod while welding, you made it extremely brittle. so it may in fact break the first time out plowing.
Dino
 
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Lou

Member
Dino, you'd cry at a wake.

I'm 60, retired, and have time to enjoy making upgrades. Sorry pal, but a $300 investment as opposed to a $4k one is a no brainer.

I've seen a lot of posts and seen a lot of problems with just
about all plow brands. Bet the next thing you want me to do is buy a new truck.....still have the ever faithfull '76 GMC.

When I see a problem comming down the road, (pun intended),
I head it off. Just curious, how much have you spent in the last seven years ?

Anyway, good luck this season.
 

plowking35

2000 Club Member
Location
SE CT
The oldest plow in my fleet is a meyer from around 86, its is a 8' HD model and I am happy with the way that plow is built. But I would never run run any ST model as a front line plow.
I payed 200 for that 8', and aside from paint no repairs have been made to it. We did swap angle cyl, from an older 7.5' fisher blade.
Other than that i have 2 western v plows that range from 3 seasons of use and the other is one season old.
Even with being retired, I would have better things to do than rebuild a worn out piece of iron. A 8' poly could be had for not much more than what you put into this one in repairs.
Also by gusseting up all those areas, the weak link is not gone, just moved to a new location, so keep that welder warmed up, you are going to need it.
As far as the GMC goes, I would rather plow with an older Gm than a new ford or dodge, so at least we agree on that.
I have seen alot of poly frames break where the ribs meet the bottom angle iron, through which the cutting edge attaches, so keep and eye on that area.
I also belive that proper PM and buying the right tool for the job is more cost effective than re-engineering.
Dino
 
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Lou

Member
Grumpy old man

Good points. I have them marked them on my sheet.

I see you have done a lot of work too. This is reassuring. For me, it is a challenge and fun. The road less traveled is sometimes smoother. Now, where have we seen a similar line before.

Take care
 

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