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98 Dodge 2500 with Fisher

Discussion in 'Ram Trucks' started by MLI, Aug 7, 2003.

  1. MLI

    MLI Member
    from Boston
    Messages: 53

    Saw a nice plow truck with only 30k on it. Has flat bed single rear wheel/360 gas/auto....dealer wants $12k. You diehard Dodge fans think this is a good deal? I love the way these trucks look, but have always been concerned about the trannies. We do mostly small commercial lots...any thoughts? Who has this model...and are you happy with your truck?!
  2. Arc Burn

    Arc Burn PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,141

    Theres one floating around my area here which has had nothing but tranny and transfer case problems,thats not to say they all do by anymeans,i'm sure the Dodge boys will tell you what to look out for.
  3. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    That would be a decent plow truck,except for the gas hog 360 motor.The trannies are no worse than any others,and are easily beefed up if you do have problems.

    I like our Dodge's,except we run the diesels.
  4. BWhite

    BWhite Senior Member
    Messages: 496


    That is a good price and should be a solid truck if it isn't a lemon from the start .The mileage is low but does it mean it was only used for plowing ? Perhaps it hasn't been heavily plowed which would be even better . .If you do a complete inspection of engine, trans , the rest of the drivetrain and the front end . you should have a solid truck. At 30 thousand miles you can change ALL fluids adjust the transmission bands belts hoses and you should have a reliable truck . So far on my 97 Ram 2500 at 63K miles I have had to
    replace the rear plate light leads
    Both front u joints
    Fuel tank sender unit
    replace fan clutch (a TSB when plowing ) it locks up at lower temp .
    I need to replace a front axle seal ( it started to leak after I did the right side u joint . I think this will be something I will let the dealer do .........Wyldman this axle seal job needs a long seal driver and the pumpkin has to come out ??
  5. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    BWhite - you have to be very,very careful when doing anything with the axle shaft,as it can damage the seal.

    Before you get into the difficult seal job,I'd get under the truck with some brake cleaner,and clean out the axle tubes.It may just be residual fluid sitting in the tube from when you did the u-joints.It may not be an actual leak.Try it first.

    If you do need to replace the axle seals,might as well do both sides.It does require removal of the center section,but if you did the u-joint yourself,then you should be able to do the seals too.I can walk you through it if you need help.

    The fuel sending units on the Dodge's are very failure prone.Do not replace it though,as the new one will fail eventually too.It is just a poor design,and the pivot for the float arm gets sloppy.When this happens,the little contacts separate,and the fuel gauge doesn't read correctly.Repairing the pivot,with a larger pin,a spring and washer,or a larger bolt will fix it for good.I have done many of them,and none have ever returned with a problem.
  6. BWhite

    BWhite Senior Member
    Messages: 496

    Well I replaced the sender with a factory unit . so the clock is ticking on that . I thought I was being careful when I replaced the axles, right side leaks slowly ...oh well . nope its definitely leaking especially after a trip on the highway .I havent had to add much but gear oil leaks are nastier than they look . Yes I did the u joints myself .I am lucky to have an automotive background . What kind of bearing preloading is needed when reinstalling the centersection and does the new axle seal need to be driven in from the end of the axle tube (requiring a long seal driver (pipe )
  7. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    The front diff bearing preload is not very much.Every one I have done pops out with a prybar.Not like some in which you need a case spreader.

    The drivers side seal goes in from inside the diff housing.A large socket and hammer is all that's needed.The pass side goes inside the CAD housing.You may get in there with a small hammer,but there isn't musch room to swing.A socket and a long pipe from the driver side,or all thread as a puller from the pass side will pop the seal into place.

    Make sure you FULLY clean all the crap and dirt out of the axle tube,as it will all get pushed back into the seal upon shaft installation.
  8. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    Here is a shot of the pass side,looking into the CAD housing.

    pass side seal.jpg
  9. szorno

    szorno Senior Member
    Messages: 308

    Hey Chris,
    I just had both seals replaced on my '97 at 90k mi after leaking on the passenger side. Now I have a pull to the left when I stop at all hard. I removed the caliper on the passenger side and used a bunch of brake cleaner. Then I very lightly sanded the pad surface and put it back together. Still pulls left but it is a bit better. Any further ideas??
  10. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    Do a complete brake service,and pay close attention to the caliper slide pins.If it still does it,it could be calipers sticking,tires or tire pressure,alignment,etc.