1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

90s unimount no up or dn left or right

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by jdgreen454, Jan 13, 2008.

  1. jdgreen454

    jdgreen454 Junior Member
    Messages: 29

    ran electrical tests and replaced the sylinoid. all the electrical works but still no movement. I was wondering if the pump itself is no good. I checked the fluid and it is full. any suggestions?
  2. wild bill

    wild bill PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,239


    check your 9 pin plug for power when you use the control the plug might not be making good contact ,check the main power plug also .
  3. Philbilly2

    Philbilly2 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,770

    Cross the two big studs on the solinoid with a metal object( ex; Screwdriver, channel locks, somthing like that) . That will make the plow jump even if your solinoid is bad or you have a bad 9 pin grill connection. If the plow dosen't jump then you might have a bad motor.

    That is the first thing that I would test. From there we can go if different directions.

  4. jdgreen454

    jdgreen454 Junior Member
    Messages: 29

    The solinoid is new and you move the joystick and the motor makes normal noise in all directions, so I believe the motor is good. If it isn't the electrical what should I look for?
  5. michdeere

    michdeere Member
    Messages: 87

    It's possible the intake screen on the pump is clogged or iced over... you might check that. It sounds more electrical though. All of the cartridge valves share a common ground. Have you lost this ground? If it was only one bad valve, you'd have more sporadic movements (lift plow and it angles right, or no left angle, or no lift, etc...) Bad gounding has laid up more than one unimount. Double check the pins where the truckside/plowside harnesses plug together. Also, if your lift cylinder isn't totally collapsed, you could put the controller in "float" then go out and try to push the ram down the rest of the way. If it won't move in float mode, then you know you have no ground. Good luck.
  6. bossplowguy

    bossplowguy Senior Member
    Messages: 214

    take the small square cover off the side of the pump, make sure the terminals are tight, also there is a black wire with a orange tracer that is the ground, make sure that has a good connection. I ran one of these a couple years ago and I had problems with that wire.
  7. Philbilly2

    Philbilly2 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,770


    As long as you motor is making noise, now you need to check the grounds as described, open the cover and check for 12 volts going the to coils when you touch the joystick. Sounds like valves are not opening. They rely on 12v power to pop the coil out and move the valve to where fluid can pass.

    Here is what they are and what they look like.


  8. festerw

    festerw Senior Member
    Messages: 986

    This is a copy of mine from another post hopefully it'll help you out.

    First thing run some jumper cables to the motor on the plow, if the motor runs that's good news, if not you'll need a new one then continue from there.

    Make sure you're getting 12V from the + wire at the pump when the solenoid is engaged, check the ground from the pump to the truck as well.

    If all of that is good, then you can move inside. On the white control plug on the truck side with the two v shaped cut outs on top the terminals will look like this


    There should be 12v between 1 and 3 with the truck key in the on position, if not find the red wire and where it taps there may be a blown fuse or bad connection.

    Jump 1 to 4, motor should run, if not check the brown/red wire to the solenoid and repair.

    Jump 1 to 6 the S1 solenoid (top right behind the red plastic cover on the pump) should be magnetized and the white wire should have 12v.

    Jump 1 to 2 the S2 solenoid (top left behind the red plastic cover on the pump) should be magnetized and the green wire should have 12v.

    Jump 1 to 5 the S3 solenoid (bottom behind the red plastic cover on the pump) should be magnetized and the blue wire should have 12v.

    If all those are good, move on if no solenoids are magnetized even though there's 12v replace them.

    Now jump 1-4-5 the plow should raise

    Jump 1-4-2-5 the plow should angle left.

    Jump 1-4-2 the plow should angle right.

    If all of these work plug the controller in, it should power on and work fine if not your controller is probably bad.

    To test the controller, ground yourself. Then remove the two screws on the side of the controller and unplug the cord from the circuit board.

    The rectangle white plug that goes to the truck will look like this facing you with the two v's on top

    Check Pin 1 for continuity with the white and black wires on the other plug.

    Check Pin 2 for continuity with the red wire on the other plug.

    Check Pin 3 for continuity with the green wire on the other plug.

    Check Pin 4 for continuity with the orange wire on the other plug.

    Check Pin 5 for continuity with the blue wire on the other plug.

    Check Pin 6 for continuity with the yellow wire on the other plug.

    If there is no continuity between any of these the cord is bad. Replace it, if they are all good put the controller back together.

    Using the battery connect the controller side pin 1 with a 6 amp fuse to 12v, pin 3 to a ground. The controller power light should come on when you hit the power button, if not the circuit board is bad.

    This is easier to do with a helper, with the controller power on check the output to the pins 4 should have 12v with all movements besides lower.

    Raise pin 5 should have 12v.

    Right angle pin 2 should have 12v.

    Left angel pin 2 and 5 should have 12v.

    If you don't have 12v to the pins, the circuit board is bad and can be replaced for around $160, which is still cheaper than the $300 they're asking for the whole controller.
  9. paponte

    paponte Senior Member
    Messages: 717

    I find alot of the time that little orange ground wire on the back of the pump gets loose or disconnected somehow. Either way keep us posted.