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87 F250 stalling

Discussion in 'Commercial Snow Removal' started by kaminski, Jan 15, 2004.

  1. kaminski

    kaminski Junior Member
    Messages: 4

    I have a 1987 F250 with a 5spd trans, Fisher 7.5ft electro hydraulic plow. Truck runs well, except sometimes after a hard bank hit or when the truck bucks while backing out of a bank the truck will stall. When I try to restart the truck it will fire, run up to 1500 rpm and then die. The truck will not start for about 2-3 minutes. I am wondering if anyone else has had this problem and what they did to stop it. It happens very rarely, usually at the worst moment. Thanks for the help.
  2. The Boss

    The Boss 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,099

    Welcome to plowsite:waving:
    Turn on your private message setting under edit profile and I'll send you a pm with some info.
  3. PLOWMAN45

    PLOWMAN45 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,951

    Can be a bad coil
  4. Bolts Indus.

    Bolts Indus. PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,176

    I had that problem on a Toyota and it was the air intake tube separated causing no air to pass the airflow sensor. Might be.
  5. kaminski

    kaminski Junior Member
    Messages: 4

    The air pipe is connect alright, it's not an all the time problem, usually only a few times a storm. It' like the fuel has been shut off to the engine and needs a few minutes to reset, I've had a few mechanics look at it, but of corse I can never make it happen when they're around.
  6. Bolts Indus.

    Bolts Indus. PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,176

    Could you be driving snow into the intake? Or perhaps a pluged fuel filter?
  7. BushHogBoy

    BushHogBoy Senior Member
    Messages: 665

    Since I have a similar truck, but never had that problem here’s a few things that came to mind:
    Faulty electrical connections for fuel pump- possibly bad ground (corroded and rusted from road salt)
    There is a collision safety switch under the dash panel on the left hand side. If you have a Chilton or Haynes book this will show you what I mean. It may be going bad causing it to operate intermittently. You pry it up with a screwdriver (gently) through a slot and it pushes a button up, this turns the truck’s fuel system off (somehow an impact will cause this to pop up also) but you can reset it just by pushing down on the button. This switch may have gone bad. All I know is when I changed my fuel filter I had to turn that switch off so it turned off the pump, then crank over the engine to get all the gas out of the lines. Then I had to reset it when done changing filter. So these are two ideas that come to mind having to do with fuel delivery. I don’t think a plugged fuel filter would do this either. Mine was plugged very bad but never had any problems like you describe, it was just pretty doggy and didn’t have much get up and go (accidentally ran a tank dry)
    It could also be something in the ignition, I don’t know anything about that stuff.
    I don’t see how it could have to do with the air delivery system so I wouldn’t worry about that. Sounds like it’s a big problem causing a good bit of downtime :(
    Mine’s a two wheel drive & I don’t plow with it, therefore I can’t say if mine would do that or not.
  8. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    This could be the intermittent problem you have:
    If it's a duel tank, fuel injected truck you might try this fix I discovered after chasing it for over a year! You may be losing the fuel supply to the high pressure pump. When you lose pressure it dies. After a minute of two it starts runs out the pressure it dies. After replacing the pumps, filters, regulator and relay I found it was the tank switcher. It is the mechanical style that switch's tanks using the fuel pressure of the chosen tanks pump. Locate it on the frame rails about mid-bed. It's black plastic, round, with 4 gas lines on it and a metal shield around it. Have a a hammer with you, when it dies leave the ignition on and swing under the truck and tap the bottom of the tank switcher with the hammer. Tap! DO NOT BEAT, you should hear the high pressure pump start to make more noise. (It's on the frame about at the drivers door front edge.) You now have pressure.
    Truck should start up. I did this twice, never had a problem after that. Be careful of the gas lines do not hit them or touch with pressure in the system they can come off.

    SIPLOWGUY Senior Member
    Messages: 686

    I have had numerous Ford trucks and a common problem to ALL Fords is the ignition module. Yours should be mounted on the outside of the distributor. It is a special socket and you are supposed to remove the distributor but if you are careful you can do it without removing the distributor. I change mine every few years to avoid getting stuck. Don't use a white box module. I just put a Borg-Warner module in my 93 last week. It was even made in the USA (surprise!!!). Even if that is not the problem it is cheap insurance. Check the coil and distributor cap and rotor for carbon tracking. That will give you a rough idle, and intermitent NOGO too! Good luck! :)
  10. tree33

    tree33 Junior Member
    Messages: 3

    i have a 88 f350 and had a problem like yours . it was the catalytic converter was clogged . i got it cleaned out and it ran like a charm .
  11. BushHogBoy

    BushHogBoy Senior Member
    Messages: 665

    I took my catalytic converter off just so I could put some good sounding pipes on it, now with dual exhaust it sounds like :gunsfiring: :nod:

    It was alittle plugged and it had something loose inside of it, sounded like tin cans dragging behind you if you coasted or accelerated :eek: