87 1 ton 350 TBI no start condition


Junior Member
Northern CA
My 87 Chevy 1 ton with a 350 TBI won't start. Does not seem to be getting fuel to the throttle body. Tried starting it being switched to either tank and nothing. Is it the fuel pump, fuel filter, or what. Any help would be appreciated.

Where is the fule pump on this truck? Does it have two? (One in each tank)

If so, I doubt that both pumps/tanks would go bad. What else can it be?


Junior Member
Lebanon Ohio
Try spraying a little gas in the Throtle Boddy opening. If it attempts to start it may be the fuel filter. If it will not try to start it is most likly a ignition problem.

Good luck


Junior Member
The fuel pump is located in the fuel tank next to the sending unit. Don't know if there's two of them-kind of doubt it. I'm wondering how you know it's not getting fuel. When my rig doesn't start the first thing I think is ignition and I do a spark test.


Senior Member
Chicago, IL.
Try replacing the fuel transfer switch in the cab???? I had the same problem with my 87 Chevy 1 -ton dump. A new switch solved the problem.



Stamford, CT
Hey streetkit!!!

if you can't get it fixed.... put it on a trailer and bring it to Connecticut.

I'll buy it from you if its a 4x4 and if its a dually regular cab even better!!!:D


Endicott, NY
Don't go replacing anything until you have diagnost the problem. There are lots of things to check. Fuel pump relay, Fuel pressure (if you have pressure, your pump is working & your filter isn't clogged!:D), voltage, clogged injectors, etc. How many miles on this pig? How has it been maintained? Did you perform the work or dealer or who? Need more info before we go any further.

A long time ago, my 94 Z71 was surging at highway speeds. I figured it was fuel pump going out. So off I went, replace this and that. After 2 months and $1500 is parts alone, it still was happening. I finally insisted the dealer inspect the plug wires. Sure enough, $40 for new wires and haven't had the problem since. It's been 2 years now.



PlowSite.com Addict
There are (if I remember right) four wires that come up on the outside of the injector body and go in to power the injectors. I'm a little fuzzy here, but they are routed under the air cleaner and a sheet metal sleeve that sits on top of the injector body. It is possible to get one of those wires pinched under that sleeve when you change an air filter. Everything seems fine for a while but eventually the insulation will cut through and ground out the injectors. When that happens you get a no-start condition. I know that from experience, so check those wires closely!


Junior Member
central NY state
This is much simpler to diagnose than is being portrayed here. Get a helper to turn the key to the run position as you listen near the fuel tank, or at the fuel fill opening (cap off). You should hear the pump run for a couple of seconds then stop. If you don't hear anything, check the fuse ( I believe it's labeled ECMB, but it's easy to check them all). If the fuses are good, find the connection in the wiring to the pump, it should be along the frame, within a couple of feet of the top of the tank. Disconnect it, and put a test light between a ground point like the frame (make sure it's a good, clean, rust-free spot), and each of the wires in the connector, on the truck end, not the tank end. I won't even bother with which wire, or colors, it's quicker to just check them all than to try and clean them enough to tell colors. One wire is a ground, the light won't come on. One wire is for the guage, the light will be dim and stay on as long as the key is on. The next wire is for the pump feed, and will brightly light the test light for the two seconds the pump should run. If it lights, and the pump will not run in the previous test, the pump is bad. If it does not light, it could either be the wiring, the relay, or the switch. You'll need to find the relay, it may be near the right side of the radiator or on the firewall. It should click on then off for the two second period. If it's the wiring, it could be easy or very tough to find.


Junior Member
1987 Chevy fuel electrical problems

Check your fuel pump relay with a tester, also check the switch in the cab with a tester. Only works for the first two seconds and cranking. If both pumps and tanks will not switch over, it is electrical. Check fusiable link/fuse for the power to the switch. I am currently having the same problem. I have narrowed it down by doing this. It is a wire frayed or cut wires. Also check all grounds. I suggest starting from the beginning fuse block, switch, fuel pump relay, switching valve, and then pumps. Finding out if you have a power problem, this will break it down to the area of the problem.