82 s-10


Junior Member
hi guys i have been out of the loop for a while (been working on a very cool project for summer) i have found a new love for chevy trucks in a little smaller truck, mainley an 82 s-10 with a 383 stroker motor with roller rockers and a huge cam in it. now my question to you all is right now it has 373 rear gears in it and i would like to know what kind of gears i could put in it to make it possibly go faster. and would a ford 9 inch rear end be a plausable addition to the truck? right now it has a 350 turbo tranny behind it would i be able to keep that tranny with a bigger/smaller gear or would i have to change itthank you in advance for your thoughts.


Senior Member
Lafayette, LA
with that setup even that tranny a set of 4.11's would be plenty fast. Remember that you are messing with a smaller truck and a full-size axle such as a ford 9inch may not fit under the rear end


Senior Member

If you want to turn the truck into a torque monster go with 4.10-11 gearing. I don't think the ford 9 would work in a truck that size. Would't the length of the axle be too much? I suppose that might be modified though. The shock brackets probably wouldn't match up either.

John DiMartino

PlowSite.com Veteran
I would leave the 3.73 in there if you are going to drive it on the street.With 3.73's you'll be taching 3300 or so at 65 mph,4.10's will bring that close to 3800.That is too high for street truck,you need an OD tranny to run the 4.10's on the street comfortably.Besides the light tailed S10 wont be able to use and wont need the deep 4.10's anyway,it will spin like mad out of the hole.Those 4.10's would be the ticket in a heavy car with tall tires,the light S10 shouldnt need them,if you are having trouble launching,and have a big cam ,a high stall convertor will help a lot more tham 4.10's and will cost less.


Junior Member
s 10

thanks guys, i dont have a stall converter in it yet but ill have to put one in. but right now im having trouble with the radiator lines to the tranny they keep leaking. ive put pipe tape on it and it still leaks any thoughts?
Here's my 2 cents:

Leave the 3.73's in and put in a 10" convertor. That size convertor should give between 2200 and 3000 rpm stall (depending on the torque of the engine, of course) and will certainly tax your rear suspension and tires. Upgrades there are an entirely different thread!

Keep in mind that you will definitely need an auxiliary transmission fluid cooler when loosening up the convertor. My recommendation: get the biggest cooler you can and bypass the one in the radiator. I've done this on my drag racing car forever and it makes more sense to me. That is, unless you are going to drive the truck in the cold, then I would hook up the two coolers (the stand alone and the in-radiator-tank) in series. This will help warm up the transmission fluid when the temperature dips below freezing. You can also place a piece of cardboard over the auxiliary cooler in the winter, thereby minimizing it's effect as much as possible without actually rerouting the fluid lines.

And speaking of fluid lines, one of the reasons you have a leak is BECAUSE you used Teflon (R) tape! These lines are a flared fitting; the threads themselves don't actually do any of the sealing. The tube should fit perfectly against the "cone" inside the fitting on the radiator. If it doesn't, you may have crossthreaded the fitting at one time and the two surfaces no longer mate the way they are supposed to.

I've crossthreaded those fittings before myself -- it doesn't take much (the fittings in the rad are usually brass, or if you have plastic tanks, then they're usually aluminum, and the cooler tube is steel -- guess which one will mess up first!). If you've messed up the threads in the radiator, use my previously mentioned tip about getting a huge aftermarket cooler (preferably a "stacked fin" cooler instead of the "fin and tube" kind that looks like the tube snakes back and forth between the fins) and bypassing the cooler in the radiator all together.

If, instead, you meant that the fittings at the transmission end are leaking, check to see if it is where the tube mates up to the fitting, or if it is the fitting itself (where it screws into the transmission case) that is leaking. If it is the fitting into the transmission, I would suggest that you wipe the area clean and have a good, close look at the case itself. It's not unheard of to have the case crack at this location, and if that's the case, you can try something like a two-part epoxy or JB Weld, but considering the area has to be impeccibly clean for these things to work, I doubt you'll be able to fix it with the transmission in the truck. And don't bother to try to fix the case -- THM 350's are a dime a dozen, and it's not too difficult to swap your guts into another case.

At this point, you may want to think about how many miles are on the transmission -- maybe it's time for a rebuild anyway? If that's the case, check out some of the aftermarket companies to upgrade parts inside the transmission, especially if you're going to be on the throttle a fair amount.

Another piece of equipment you'll want to invest in is a good transmission fluid temperature gauge. Keep the fluid below 180 F if possible (shouldn't be a problem if you buy the proper cooler) and you'll never have transmission problems again. That is, if you can keep your foot out of the throttle on this rocket you're building!

Keep the shiny side up!
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