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7550 wires getting hot at plugs at back of controller

Discussion in 'SnowEx Products' started by Hammerman07, Jan 24, 2013.

  1. Hammerman07

    Hammerman07 Junior Member
    Messages: 5

    I have a 7550 v box i bought 3 yrs ago. it was 1 yr old when i bought it. first yr everything was fine. last yr the wiring harness plugs at back of the controller would get hot if i ran it for 10 or 15 min salting a large lot with the viberator on. They ended up melting into the back of the controller. i called a guy i found on this site that makes aftermarket controllers and bought one with a new pigtail for wires and installed it. It was fine for a while but then it started getting warm every now and again. This year i put a dual battery set up in my truck thinking i was not getting enough power after long uses. It started getting hot again a few weeks ago. I put dielectric greased the connection in back at spreader but it still gets hot. Is it a ground issue i'm having? Should a ground be installed in the truck bed? This should'nt be doing this and i'm afraid of damaging something else. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks
  2. SnowEx Products

    SnowEx Products Sponsor
    Messages: 118

    You should check to ensure that you have a good firm connection at the vibrator tab.

  3. Hammerman07

    Hammerman07 Junior Member
    Messages: 5

    Well i just salted again today and the positive wire on the replacement pigtail i replaced last year has got so hot that it has started to melt the little plug again. I've checked the plugs to everything and they all look fine except in the truck where they're getting hot. Are these connectors not heavy enough to handle the current flow for 10 or 25 minutes of continous duty? I'm thinking of replacing them with anderson connectors that are heavy duty. Or could there be drag on the auger in the gear box? Looks like i'm going to have to tear this thing apart in a few days when it warms up. Hope it lasts that long!!!
  4. #1 plowtech

    #1 plowtech Senior Member
    Messages: 253

    AND......?????? THAT'S ALL YOU GOT ???
    C'mon, this guy has a problem and needs to get thru the weekend

    Like any electrical problem, you need to start with clean connections.

    Start at the battery: remove - and + connections and sand terminals
    down to good metal. Do the same were they are connected to battery
    and apply dielectric grease, not just any grease.

    Do the same on ALL connections that pertain to salter connections,including vibrator.
    Be careful on the rear plugs with pins.

    Your vibrator may be drawing to many amps causing overloading the circuit
    and the hot connection.
    The controller protection is suppose to detect a problem.

    If need be, bypass the controller and install a separate switch to get you
    thru the weekend. PM me your phone # if you need help Sunday.

    I can tell you on almost every 7550,8550,9500, sp8000, the vibrator contact
    housings are melted from heat, and eventually have to replace the controller
    for 800.00 dollars.

    Good luck , PT:)
  5. bytheyardlandsc

    bytheyardlandsc Member
    from ohio
    Messages: 68

    separate the vibrator from the control box. install a 12 volt constant solenoid so that when you turn on the vibrator it activates the solenoid then the power is going back right from the battery. did that on my vpro 8000s and stopped melting switches.
  6. Hammerman07

    Hammerman07 Junior Member
    Messages: 5

    This is what i have done to try to correct my problem this season
    01 gmc 2500 hd crew
    2009 or 2010 SnowEx 7550

    Installed Aux battery tray and 2 new 1000cc duralast gold batteries.
    Connected both batteries together and to the alternator pos. Grounded them together and to the engine.
    all with #4 copper welding wire.
    My plow is connected to one battery and salter to the other.
    All connections are soldered where crimped and shrink tubed.
    All battery connections are new Sunami gold plated connectors and dielectric greased.
    Rear connections at snow ex factory plugs are clean and dielectric greased.
    Last year i purchased a omega aftermarket controller from Karrier Co.. Factory one still works and keep it in truck just in case. Thought that was my problem last year.

    The positive wire to the auger motor at the connection in the truck is the one that is getting hot.
    I dont run the vib all the time. Only when salt stops flowing or when i'm almost empty to get the salt
    off the rear baffle.

    If the vib. is drawing alot of power i would think it would get hot, not the auger wires unless the pigtail plugs are not sufficient.
    What size wire should i run to seperate the Vib motor? I have installed viberators on my old tailgate spreaders but the harness that comes with them just does not seem heavy enough. If i do this i only want to do it once.

    Is the Karrier Co. still around in Ohio. i had saved the site to my favorites and it doesnt work anymore.
    I'm thinking of getting one of his wiring harnesses he makes with the military type connectors and heavy duty wiring.

    Just frusterated!!!!!